Need serious wiring help

[DirtDonk]

Unfortunately, it could be either/or, OR the NSS we were discussing.
The wire should only have power when the key is turned to the "START" position of course, so you can only test things with it in that position, but because the NSS is physically in-between the two, and it's job is literally to keep the starter relay from working, you need to add that to the list of possible culprits.

So, in order of appearance, counting backwards, you have the 90° connector at the relay, the wire itself back to the firewall area, the potential connector at the firewall with wires going down to the transmission, the NSS on the transmission, the wire between the NSS and the ignition switch, and the ignition switch.
Lots of things to wonder about, but it's fairly quick to follow the wire along to each junction to see where the power stops.

Why not just try shifting the shift lever into neutral from park, to see if that changes things. Turn the key to start, then run the shifter through it's full range.
Can't hurt to try, takes a few seconds, and might give you another clue if you do hear a click under the hood when you get to certain points in the shift range.

Paul

 

[Steve83]

It would either be an open circuit in the R/LB wire (like the NSS is supposed to create if you're not in P or N), or a bad ig.sw. Testing voltage at the ig.sw. S terminal would isolate it: 0 means the ig.sw. is bad; 12V means the wire is open. Follow the wire testing its voltage until you find where the voltage drops. Refer to that diagram I posted for the ig.sw. terminal IDs.

 

[76_bronco]

Just so I have this correct Steve, so I leave the blue/red wire on the selenoid and check its voltage at the stud it connects to. If it comes to zero then I need a new ignition switch? If I get 12v at the selenoid I follow that wire back to the firewall and so on until the voltage drops. All this is done with the key in start position correct?

Sorry for the dumb questions wiring is not my thing

 

[Steve83]

We're probably going at this from the harder end of the R/LB wire. Try it this way: start with EVERYTHING connected normally and the trans in P. Pull the R/LB wire off the starter relay, connect the RED meter probe to the S terminal or R/LB wire at the ig.sw., and connect the BLACK to a good ground, like the cigar lighter socket shell, or the instrument cluster case.

With the key in OFF/ACC/RUN, the meter should show ~0V.
With the key in START, the meter should show battery voltage (~12V).

If any of those are wrong, the ig.sw. is bad. If they're good, disconnect the 3-wire connector from the ig.sw. and install a jumper (paperclip etc., but don't let it short to anything metal) from Y (battery hot at all times) to R/LB and check voltage on the R/LB wire to make sure the jumper is good. Then connect the meter from R/LB under the hood to the battery - post. If it reads 12V, the entire R/LB circuit is good, but I suspect it won't. Follow the R/LB wire back toward the ig.sw., probing it frequently by piercing it with a stickpin to check voltage. Move the BLACK probe to a new ground as needed, but make sure it's a GOOD ground every time.

Eventually, voltage should jump, which means you just crossed the open circuit. If it's at the NSS on the trans, either the NSS isn't adjusted properly, or the shifter isn't properly engaging P, or the NSS is bad. If it's across a connector, split it and clean the terminals. If it's at a random spot in a wire, cut the wire & splice it back together, or just overlay a new piece of wire to bypass the bad one.

 

[76_bronco]

That sounds much simpler thank you again. Ill give it a shot and see what happens

 

[76_bronco]

ok guys im lost now I came home after work today and gave the key a shot and it started cranking over and fired up. I didnt touch anything or trace any wires and it has cranked with the key since this afternoon. Im lost what would be causing that possible bad ignition switch????

 

[Viperwolf1]

ok guys im lost now I came home after work today and gave the key a shot and it started cranking over and fired up. I didnt touch anything or trace any wires and it has cranked with the key since this afternoon. Im lost what would be causing that possible bad ignition switch????

NSS slightly out of adjustment.

Block wheels. Put shifter in neutral. Grab a 1/16" drill bit and 3/8" wrench. Loosen NSS bolts. Insert drill bit into side of NSS (small hole). Rotate NSS until bit can slide all the way in. Tighten NSS bolts. Remove drill bit.