• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

New 347 Build... '75 Street Queen

OP
OP
Mountain Ram

Mountain Ram

Contributor
Recovering Masshole
Joined
May 8, 2011
Messages
3,387
Loc.
Abingdon, VA
The hood is definitely coming off and I figured I would pull the tires for better access... But I think that if I pulled the upper and oil pan- the engine could come over the grill.
 

airbur

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 3, 2008
Messages
2,763
Loc.
Castle Pines, CO
I'd highly suggest a load leveler if you don't already have one.....

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-capacity-heavy-duty-load-leveler-5402.html

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1355709987.181895.jpg
 
OP
OP
Mountain Ram

Mountain Ram

Contributor
Recovering Masshole
Joined
May 8, 2011
Messages
3,387
Loc.
Abingdon, VA
More goodies today... Comp XE266HR cam and matched springs, timing gear set, new hydraulic roller litters, lifter keepers and a few other misc items...

Now to order heads and rockers, so I can measure for pushrods.

1C576894-ECAD-4166-BF84-249799B5CB4A-1113-000001685E9B318A.jpg
 

AZ73

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 28, 2012
Messages
3,610
You might want to think about joining http://www.sbftech.com/ There's a lot of technical information there and Jim Woods is a master 347 builder. Learn from others mistakes. If you really want to get some guidance, spend a little money (I think it's like $150/yr or $20/mo) and join this: http://www.sbfbuilding.com/. Great video tutorials. There's a lot of nuances with a 347, like potential overheating (and it's a tight engine bay anyway) that you'll want to correct while you're building. I'll watch your build with interest. I wanted a 347 but after doing my own research, I decided to leave building it mostly to a pro instead. I've done a few of Chevy 383's, but the 347 just seemed to need a lot more attention to detail to make it last.
 
OP
OP
Mountain Ram

Mountain Ram

Contributor
Recovering Masshole
Joined
May 8, 2011
Messages
3,387
Loc.
Abingdon, VA
Joined sbftech... Don't know how I missed that one. As soon as I get approved over there- I will do a bunch of searching... Looking at heads now, but on a limited budget.

Made some more progress. Got the cam cleaned up and installed. Then cleaned and installed the crank. I didn't get a crank key with either the crank or with the timing gear set... When we balance electric motor shafts-we always install a key to include the weight in the balance. Guess I will have to find one...

BE40B146-77BE-42C1-B611-AF0DA162E4B5-1113-00000174FD2BAE7B.jpg

043B4705-C6CE-4821-B568-EBE64B904241-1113-00000174E97CCC73.jpg
 
OP
OP
Mountain Ram

Mountain Ram

Contributor
Recovering Masshole
Joined
May 8, 2011
Messages
3,387
Loc.
Abingdon, VA
Just noticed I think I put the long stud for the oil pickup mount in the wrong spot... Anyone know what position this goes in??
 

tasker

Contributor
all knowing of nothing
Joined
Jun 2, 2006
Messages
21,118
Loc.
NH
PRETTY sure that is right, been a while though
 

73azbronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 11, 2007
Messages
8,219
to the poster who mentioned specific cooling items for a 347, what by chance would that be?
 

AZ73

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 28, 2012
Messages
3,610
to the poster who mentioned specific cooling items for a 347, what by chance would that be?

Please note that this is all SECOND HAND knowledge from reading SBF forums. Besides the normal stuff (bad thermostat) The motor seems to produce more heat than a 302 simply because of higher compression and thinner walls. Common problems when building a 347:

Small-block Ford cylinder-head gaskets can be installed backwards, which is an automatic overheat because head gaskets installed backwards cut off coolant flow to the back of the block and heads. Install one head gasket backwards and you have a hidden overheat issue. Hidden because the engine runs a pinch hotter but doesn't boil over. But because coolant flow isn't reaching the back of the block and head on one side, damage is being done you're unaware of until an exhaust valve fails or pistons crack on that bank.

"FRONT" means FRONT with all cylinder head gaskets, even if it doesn't look right. Position "FRONT" at the front, and make sure coolant passages are at the rear of the block. While you're at it, check for proper steam-hole positioning, too. Sometimes head gaskets come from the factory missing important passages.

Some head gaskets need the water passage holes enlarged to match aftermarket head sizes.

As you learned, your water pump rotation was reversed (I watched your video).

Timing is a huge issue, as well as air/fuel mixture on these motors.

A stock 302 radiator won't have enough cooling so that must be upgraded

Shrouds are needed on the fan

Also there seems to be some issue with air locked into the water passages. the recommended solution is to take off the bypass hose nearest the t-stat housing and fill the cooling system until it is full. Most likely the air is trapped at the t-stat, keeping it from opening.

And lastly moving water TOO fast will cause higher temps. This is corrected with a proper sized pulley on the water pump.
 

73azbronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 11, 2007
Messages
8,219
Ok, thanks, I addressed all of those issues, I was just thinking the way you stated it that missed some engineering need to manufacture something different internal to the block.

Some simple common sense issues with a 347 in a Bronco:

First, the guys with big thick glasses in Detroit did a pretty good job engineering the cooling system for a 302/5.0.

Now, us armchair engineers go and punch that to 347 and now you need to cool and extra 45 cubic inches, or 13%. Or is it? It's only hotter if you use it at peak RPM. So we in Bronco land will only be using this in the 3-4000 rpm band at most. Well below the peak rpm desinged by Ford (5800 rpm). Resulting in RPM wise, only needing to cool a motor which is running 30% less than a stock 302. Yes, there's more to it (throttle angle, airflow).

Next, you mentioned some common cooling issues with the 302, head gaskets wrongly installed, backwards running water pumps, bad thermostats, air bubbles (one of the biggest and even mine on the test stand needed to be burped twice), and most critical a proper fan/shroud/radiator. Biggest mistake folks make when having cooling issues is failing to realize their system is just old, dirty, worn ot. Gummed up radiator, overbored and tired motor, missing proper fan or shroud, and radiator deflector piece over core support.

A stock radiator will work, but... The size will work, but triple pass is probably needed to ensure cooling on the hiway under load and sitting at a light at the corner of McDowell and Scottsdale August 3rd.

I plan to use BC triple pass and have AC to boot, I did however give up on an automatic as being unable to think of a reasonable way to keep that cool as well as the motor. Besides, I think the NV4500 sitting on my garage floor looks cool.
 

Attachments

  • P1010212.jpg
    P1010212.jpg
    93.8 KB · Views: 44
Last edited:
OP
OP
Mountain Ram

Mountain Ram

Contributor
Recovering Masshole
Joined
May 8, 2011
Messages
3,387
Loc.
Abingdon, VA
73AZ and AZ73... Hmmm- not the same guy with split personalities.... ;D

Seriously- all valid points most of which I have read and considered. The head gasket issue is noted on every SBF site and build, not just stroker builds. Have a good fan shroud and fan and everything is in good shape. I will pick up a new reverse rotation pump.

Thanks for the input.

Hope to drop some pistons tonight.
 
OP
OP
Mountain Ram

Mountain Ram

Contributor
Recovering Masshole
Joined
May 8, 2011
Messages
3,387
Loc.
Abingdon, VA
I got the rotating assembly complete and am waiting on my heads...

Brought the upper and lower Explorer intakes into work and drilled and tapped the ACT sensor location as well as the EGR port in the lower. I threw them in our sonic cleaner and it got all the oil out- it was amazing how much oil was in these... Pic below was after only the lower... I will sandblast and then have to figure out a color to paint them.
 

Attachments

  • cleaner sludge.jpg
    cleaner sludge.jpg
    74.3 KB · Views: 69

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
35,675
The lower intake can take a blasting, you can get in everywhere to clean it when done.
Upper intake is NOT blastable. There is no good way to get all the grit out a used upper intake. I got one that had been blasted, I tried for months to clean it out. Everytime I thought it might be good I would give it a bump and get a little more sand. If I cut the intake in half I might be able to clean it effectivly. I just gave up and got a different intake. Sold the sandy one with a clear statment that it has sand in it. Never heard back.
 
OP
OP
Mountain Ram

Mountain Ram

Contributor
Recovering Masshole
Joined
May 8, 2011
Messages
3,387
Loc.
Abingdon, VA
Hmmm... Ran it in the sonic washer for two hours, Taped off the upper and blasted the outside... Threw it in the sonic washer again. It's dry now and I have no sand coming out of it, but y'all have me concerned.

Ran the same process with the lower after machining work.

Todd
 
Top