New painless and ron francis wiring woes

[73azbronco]

where are you measuring pressure?
First time should be at the pump, not the rail, then at the rail.

 

[4x4man514]

I've been measuring at rail the whole time. What are you using to check at pump?

 

[73azbronco]

I've been measuring at rail the whole time. What are you using to check at pump?

Just unhook line from pump and direct into gauge. Most fuel pump gauge kits have the necessary fittings

 

[DirtDonk]

You can also pinch off the return line (assuming it's soft?) and see if the pump is able to raise the pressure up to normal.
If hard line, capping it would be another way.

This would highlight a bad regulator, or bad pump pretty clearly I would think.
Although other things that might drop pressure to zero would be a bad hose connection at the pressure pump inside a tank. But you have an external high-pressure pump, so that would show up pretty quickly as a leak.

A friend of mine told me it might be the tps sensor wasn't set properly. So I checked it and it seemed that was the case. It was showing .52 volts instead of yhe .96 to .98 he said it should be showing. So I adjusted it and got it set at .97. It ramps up smoothly and I thought maybe I had it.

Did you verify your friend's information by reading the book or looking it up online?
I'm not disputing it (because I can't remember the setting!) but it's always good to get second and third opinions.

But now for some reason I have 0 fuel pressure. Aaarrrggghhhh!!!! My pumps are running and I can here the fuel returning to the tank. But no pressure. I had like 50 pounds the last time I was out here.

Try pinching off the return line to see if pressure rises.
If it does, you likely have a bad pressure regulator.

I wouldn't think the tps sensor could cause this but what would?

No, not a TPS issue. Bad pump, bad feed, air in the line, clog in the tank, funky switch action? Electric valve, or mechanical?

Are high pressure pump failures common? Or could this be something else?

All too common unfortunately. I worry about mine every day that I don't drive it. Every day not running, a failure gets more likely.
No pump likes sitting with today's fuel. Except modern pumps in brand new vehicles that is. But older, even almost new pumps, fail all the time just from sitting.
Luckily we have very low ethanol in our gas hereabouts. I think that's the worst thing, but even here we have it happen all the time to mechanical low pressure pumps. Don't see why electric would be any different.
But don't give up on the pump just yet...

On another note. My bronco is set up with a pusher pump pulling from a tank selector switch/valve to the hp pump . Returning to the switch/valve and back to the respective tank. I've noticed that the fuel sounds like its returning only to the rear tank reguuardless of the switch position. Due to the fact the gauge isn't working I guess this could be part of the issue?

Of course.... A defective switching valve could cause all sorts of headaches.
What exact setup do you have? Sorry if you already said, but if you don't mind re-hashing it, that might help.

But pinch off the return line first, then see what happens.

Paul

 

[4x4man514]

Paul are you familiar with these switching valves? I've been double checking mine and im pretty sure I have it wired right. But if its not switching could that be the cause of the fuel gauge not working ? How do I check out the valve? Or the switch?

 

[4x4man514]

Ok so I've determined the valve works but the switch is only sending the signal down one wire. Does anyone know if the stock fuel selector switch will work with this tank selected valve? Or do I need a different kind of switch. Or is mine just bad?

And on the other tank the fuel gauge pegged way past full. And won't come back down with the ignition off. Did I somehow fry the gauge?

 

[DirtDonk]

I don't know which switching valve you have. Got a pic? There are different types, but the fact that you say it has multiple wires tells me it's not the typical 1-wire style Ford used on full-size trucks.
The stock dash switch will work fine with either style valve.
The fuel gauge can't be bad on one and not the other tank. It's the same gauge, so the only things that can cause this type of problem would be a bad switch, bad wire, or bad sending unit.
Since it stays pegged, it's not the sending unit or the wire. With the key off, there should not be any difference in how it acts no matter which switch position it's in. But yours seems to be, so I'm not exactly sure what the issue is at the moment.

To be clear, your gauge needle pegs on one setting (which tank?) and comes back down on the other?

Paul

 

[4x4man514]

Thanks I'll take a pic next time I'm out there. Iy sounds like i have a bad switch.

My front tank is the one showing pegged. Its a 12 gallon tank and I put 5 gallons in it so it should show a little less than 1/2. Or close enough.

My rear tank is showing empty. Its a 23 gallon with 5 gallons in ot so it should show a little less than a quarter. Maybe I should put a little more in that one to be sure

 

[DirtDonk]

Absolutely on the rear tank!
That 5 gallons is often just the reserve and would show empty in most cases.
Depends on how the sending unit was adjusted and how it reads, of course, but if it’s anywhere near normal, it would read empty with 5 gallons.
Of course, the way most of these read after they’re re-done, it’ll probably show empty with 10 gallons in it!
Definitely more things to check before assuming something is wrong. Other than adjustment that is.

 

[4x4man514]

Ok so I put 5 gallons more in the rear and now it is showing about 1/8. So maybe rhats right.

But in digging around for my drawings I found some drawings from bcbroncos in a thread. I think that's where my valve came from 20 yrs ago.

But those drawings contradict the drawings I found that came with the valve. Which is how I have it wired up now. Which is right? could this have been my issue the whole time?

 

[Oldtimer]

BC Bronco drawing has one wire connected to valve.
Pollak drawing has five wires connected to valve.
How many wires connected to valve you are using?

 

[4x4man514]

BC Bronco drawing has one wire connected to valve.
Pollak drawing has five wires connected to valve.
How many wires connected to valve you are using?

I have 5 wires. Mine is wired exactly like the one in the Pollak drawing

 

[Speedrdr]

Good gravy!!! I’m going to stay with an OEM type mechanical valve if all that wiring is involved with an electric valve switch. I be a simple kinda guy.

Randy

 

[4x4man514]

Good gravy!!! I’m going to stay with an OEM type mechanical valve if all that wiring is involved with an electric valve switch. I be a simple kinda guy.

Randy

Lol. Its not that bad........of course mine isn't working either.


I think I have a bad switch but before l get another one im trying to make sure I got it wired right

P

 

[Oldtimer]

Consensus seems to be. . . 73 ohms empty...10 ohms full, for STOCK sender.
So if the front tank is pegging the meter, I would look for a short to ground of the sending wire between the tank and the valve.

 

[DirtDonk]

And it wouldn’t hurt to adjust/tweak your other one to get that extra “reserve” amount down to more like 3 gallons. Just gives you more time before E to watch the needle drop.
Just remember to fill up early. The 11 or so gallons in the main tank gets sucked up pretty quickly.

 

[DirtDonk]

BC uses a simplified model. You don’t need all five wire connections because the gauge and sending unit wires are already connected to the switch. No need to control the gauge from the valve.

 

[4x4man514]

Ok so I'm thinking maybe the switch is bad if I swap the leads the tank and readings change. That May not be my only problem but I think its one. Can someone tell me what this type of switch is called? So I can source one locally just to check it out? Without waiting a week for the right one to get here.

Thanks

 

[4x4man514]

Plus an update. Got a new wiper motor and everything is a go there! So finally got past one issue.

Back to the blinkers. Everything seems a little different from my last attempt. Here's what I got. Maybe yall can make sense of it.


Lights off.
Everything functions normally

Lights on
No left front park light
Left indicator light always on

Left blinker on
Front and rear blink but really slow. And front only is very dim

Right blinker on
Left front goes back out
Right front is bright but does not blink
Rear functions normally

I should note earlier the blinkers quit altogether so I swapped the flasher with the hazards to get this far again.

Could cheap or sorry flashers have anything to do with this?

Thanks guys!

 

[Oldtimer]

Can someone tell me what this type of switch is called?

Double pole, double throw switch.

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