New painless and ron francis wiring woes

[4x4man514]

View attachment 912424

Double pole, double throw switch.

http://[URL]https://www.littelfuse....ehicle-technical-center/poles-and-throws.aspx

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Thanks! Just what I needed to know!

 

[Oldtimer]

Plus an update. Got a new wiper motor and everything is a go there! So finally got past one issue.

Good job, One down, more to go.

Back to the blinkers. Everything seems a little different from my last attempt.

Assuming incandescent bulbs (not LEDs)
I would start with checking and cleaning all grounds at each turnsignal lamp assembly.

The front assemblies are grounded to grill by attachment screws.
The grill is grounded to outer fenders & core support by bolts.
Outer fenders are grounded to inner fenders by spot welds.
Inner fender should be grounded by wire from alternator, under the bolt that attaches the voltage regulator to the fender.
The alternator is grounded to block by rusty bolts.
Battery ground wire is connected to block by a rusty, oil soaked bolt.

The ground path from the rear assemblies is not much better.

 

[4x4man514]

Ok so I bought a new switch and its doing precisely the same thing as the old switch. So It has to be wired wrong at the switch. But I don't understand these switches enough to know which terminals to switch.

 

[4x4man514]

I tried almost every possibility of combos. And im out of fuses.

Could it be both switches are the wrong kind? The switch is only sending power in one position. If I swap the wires in that position the tanks swap

If I swap the wires in the other position nothing works

 

[DirtDonk]

Ok so I'm thinking maybe the switch is bad if I swap the leads the tank and readings change. That May not be my only problem but I think it’s one.

Sorry, I didn’t get a chance to mention this earlier, but your test sounds to me like it proved that it wasn’t the switch.
Moving the wires and having the problem follow the wires, indicates that it’s something in the wire or sending unit on the end it’s not working properly.

 

[DirtDonk]

How do you have it wired? Is the lead from the gauge in the middle, or on one of the ends?

 

[4x4man514]

And when I removed the ground off the switch my last fuse popped. None of this makes sense to me

 

[4x4man514]

Good job, One down, more to go.


Assuming incandescent bulbs (not LEDs)
I would start with checking and cleaning all grounds at each turnsignal lamp assembly.

The front assemblies are grounded to grill by attachment screws.
The grill is grounded to outer fenders & core support by bolts.
Outer fenders are grounded to inner fenders by spot welds.
Inner fender should be grounded by wire from alternator, under the bolt that attaches the voltage regulator to the fender.
The alternator is grounded to block by rusty bolts.
Battery ground wire is connected to block by a rusty, oil soaked bolt.

The ground path from the rear assemblies is not much better.

I checked all grounds and they all came back good. Everything is new so no rust or corrosion

 

[4x4man514]

How do you have it wired? Is the lead from the gauge in the middle, or on one of the ends?

The wire from the gauge goes to the switching valve

 

[DirtDonk]

And when I removed the ground off the switch my last fuse popped. None of this makes sense to me

There is no ground on a fuel gauge selector switch.
You have a simple input from the gauge, and an output to each of the two sending units at the tanks.
The sending units are grounded, of course, but only through their own resistor.
If you try to switch the instruments on the dashboard directly to the ground, guess what? It’s going to blow a fuse.
Luckily… Because if it didn’t, you would overheat and probably burn out the gauge.

 

[DirtDonk]

Sorry, I’m still thinking about a standard Dash mounted switch without the electric valve. I’ll have to revisit what I said.

 

[DirtDonk]

After all these problems, is there any way you can simply rewire it back to original?
Keep the valve to switch the tanks (assuming it’s working), but use the dash switch to switch the gauges independently.

Is your old switch like the original in the diagrams? Is your new switch the same?
Two rows of three terminals?

 

[4x4man514]

Yes my old switch is original 2 rows of 3 ter.inals

My new switch also has 2 rows of 3 terminals dpdt switch. I think its for ac but I don't think there's a difference. The new switch is on-off-on. Which is different but I don't think that matters.

The 2 switches function identical. They will only send power in one position. If you swap the wires the tanks will swap AND the gauge readings will change. (Whether Right or wrong).

But they will only move with the switch in one position. Hence why I think I have the switch wired wrong or the wrong switch

 

[Oldtimer]

Can you post pictures of valve and back side of switch showing wire colors and connections? I think the fuel tank switching should be an independent harness, with 12v, tank senders, and gauge connections to Ron Francis/painless harness under the dash?

 

[4x4man514]

Well finally! An update at last! I really haven't had any time to work on the old girl lately. But at least I did solve the fuel tank switching problems. Everything was wired right EXCEPT I didn't realize I needed jumpers on the switch. I just thought that was part of the drawing. Boy what a duh huh moment and simple fix. Im still dont think the sender for the aux is right but thats something different altogether.

 

[4x4man514]

So back to my blinker issue. I noticed today .

I removed the hazard flasher.
The hazards don't work understandably

While troubleshooting the blinkers I turned the hazards on and they worked...with no flasher.

Could this point toward where my troubles are?

 

[4x4man514]

And then I wiggled the park light like I've done a hundred times and it worked. Wth?


This seems too good to be true to figure out 2 issues in one day! Lol

 

[73azbronco]

Pretty sure you need to change title for thread to keep it straight, this is not a bad wiring harness thread, this is a host of other random issues.

 

[m_m70]

I removed the hazard flasher.
The hazards don't work understandably

OK so you removed the hazard flasher and turned the hazards on and they didn't work

While troubleshooting the blinkers I turned the hazards on and they worked...with no flasher.

What were you doing while "troubleshooting the blinkers" that would involve turning on the hazards?

There should be two flashers. One for the blinkers and one for the hazards. I can only guess that you disconnected the blinker flasher as your hazards can't work without a flasher connected.

And then I wiggled the park light like I've done a hundred times and it worked. Wth?

You need to go back through everything and make sure you got good grounds and all your connections are tight.

Wiring can be no fun but stick with it............you'll get there!

 

[4x4man514]

OK so you removed the hazard flasher and turned the hazards on and they didn't work


What were you doing while "troubleshooting the blinkers" that would involve turning on the hazards?

There should be two flashers. One for the blinkers and one for the hazards. I can only guess that you disconnected the blinker flasher as your hazards can't work without a flasher connected.


You need to go back through everything and make sure you got good grounds and all your connections are tight.

Wiring can be no fun but stick with it............you'll get there!

so to clarify.

initially while trying to troubleshoot the problem the brand new blinker flasher stopped working, i didnt have another flasher handy so to continue troubleshooting i swapped the hazard flasher with the bad blinker flasher.

as for how the hazards got pulled into the troubleshooting, blind luck. i was turning the headlights on and off while the blinker was on and one time when i wasnt looking i accidently grabbed the flashers and pulled them on. they started flashing with the non-working flasher installed. i havent had a chance to try this again now that the blinker issue seems to be solved.

and i couldnt tell you how many times ive been through these grounds. such a headache. and all my connections are tight. been over that plenty. where i wiggled to get things working was the passenger blinker ( originally it was the driver side) lamp right where the wire enters the housing. these were all new assemblies, everything on this bronco is new.

but as for now it seems im over the hill.(aside from the motor still will not run) if i have this problem again i know where to look