Newbie -> Just Got My -NEW TO ME- Bronco Need help, advice, parts

[mytmouse75]

If I wanted to install a stock new NSS (neutral safety switch), to make work with whats there, that means I have to find the stock wiring harness / connector - right? Or is there another way to wire it ?

Or I guess (not sure would pass inspection) just wire the lights to a manual switch

I haven't checked yet (as far as starting in Gear) - that would mean NO NNS at all (which maybe the case)... If I were to just get a new shifter - that means dropping the trans - How hard/ big of a deal is that ? Something I can do in driveway with floor jack? ?:?

Plus what does a new floor shift run $$$ ? Don't want to empty my pockets on this already - when I'm sure there's other things going to pop up ...

 

[skymast]

It's so easy to fall in love with a picture. About a year ago I put a deposit on one at WWV, did some research (after the fact), asked advice here (after the fact), and ended up abandoning my $500 deposit. I got out cheep.

 

[JAFO]

Look what else I found hiding behind the inner panel on drivers door striker
https://goo.gl/photos/j4kQ17LjMWsxReZL6
Does this mean that it's not a 75, but a 74?

74, 75, doesn't really matter much. From 73 on the front axle was a Dana 44 and things are pretty similar. You don't have a factory correct truck anyway. Anything that bolts to one year bolts to the another.

You just need to concentrate on making sure the truck drives down the road safely, passes any state inspection required. Then you can address all the other annoying stuff that is not like you want it. Just take your time and don't throw money at stuff until sure the direction best to go. You are dealing with a Bronco that somebody did their flavor of a resto-mod. A lot of people like them and you can make yours just like you want it.

And regarding the driveway....for many, many years when I was young I did everything laying in the driveway. You do what you have to do. I rebuilt a Subaru motor and the way I removed the motor was unbolted it, then stood on the wheel wells, grabbed it by the intake and lifted it out with my hands. Aluminum engine, so I guess not crazy heavy. But I was in my twenties and had been lifting weights. Was living in an apartment and no tree limb handy. Not sure I could wrestle one out by myself now.

 

[mytmouse75]

Ok, Looks like I'm gonna get the B&M StarShifters 80675, weather it covers the floor hole or not , I can always build some sort of floor console to cover the hole. Comes with both reverse and Nss switches. It addresses all my issues, and this IS something that NEEDS TO be fixed right away, not safe in my book, especially with kids climbing around..
Does anyone know how to wire in the nss from scratch, if I can't find the wiring?

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, the year is encoded in the VIN and printed on the title and registration. 75s for instance were made from late summer in 74 until late summer 75. Good luck

 

[mytmouse75]

Thanks for the I found.

For the wiring , I think I just need to have the nss in the 12v* line going to/between the starter solenoid? Then as far as the reverse lights, just have the switch in a 12v source feed to the reverse lights...

 

[mytmouse75]

That's was supposed be be - thanks for the ***info*** dang spell correct

 

[mytmouse75]

Now I just need to figure out a solution on making the passenger seat flip up/forward to allow access to the back seat... Any ideas ???

 

[Mtgrizzlymn]

I'm sure it will come together fine. Just takes time and some money. Mine was bought over Internet as well and had a few issues. The main concern is make it safe first so you can enjoy it as you fix it. People do some stupid fixes so check everything, mine had the wrong pitman arm to drag link the hole was to small so the nut had about 3 threads holding the steering on. I drove it down the freeway like that. Enjoy it I love my bronco.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[mytmouse75]

For my next BIGGEST CONCERN / challenge, is to know if the steering linkage is correct ...
If I take a picture of the front end will you be able to tell / help me out ?

See link of steering linkage
https://goo.gl/photos/8acXkANwhjjXtk1aA

 

[Cortez]

Hey MyT,

Can you add a picture of the frame side of the trac bar? And close up of the radius arm bushings at the point where they attach to the frame? The angle of the drag link and trac bar look quite good actually. Fist step is to inspect all the attachment points and to do this you may be best to put the tires off the ground. Check for sloppiness at all the rod ends for trac bar, tie rod, and drag link. You may need a helper to turn the steering while you watch and video.

I think you previously mentioned it was squirrelly which is often the caster angle influenced by lift height and corrected by your blue c-bushings and/or a change in radius arm angle by drop bracket Or aftermarket radius arms. If the caster is off, the steering can feel overly easy to turn the wheels, the steering wheel may not return to center by itself after a turn but feels like you have to bring the steering wheel back to center yourself. It can make your butt pucker by being unpredictable and darting left or right when road surfaces change or you hit bumps...white knuckle scenario for sure. If the c bushings are not the correct offset angle degree or if they were installed upside down there is no way to visually inspect or determine this condition that I know of, you need to disassemble and reassemble. Once assembled and correct caster confirmed I would suggest an alignment and check for toe-in.

For documented procedures on all this do some searches here on the forum...great resource down to all the nitty gritty details.

Best of luck,
Dave

 

[mytmouse75]

Thanks Cortez, great DETAILED information ... I had someone else tell me that the caster is prob.most thing to have dialed in on lifted truck. That this truck should be between +5 & +9 degrees of caster... I'll try to get more pictures later..

 

[mytmouse75]

Pictures https://goo.gl/photos/Y1crnAj9futSvrx46

 

[mytmouse75]

Another Question - SORRY !

This Bronco already Has the front disk conversion - I'm just wondering what pads to get to change them out ???? I want to change the front disc PADS , how/what do I request to get the right pads that will fit / be the right ones?

 

[tasker]

try 76/77 bronco/f150 pads

 

[mytmouse75]

The guy's at WH said:
""Typically, 66-75, would use a GM disc conversion, with a bolt on caliper. Those typically take a #52 pad, like from a 75 Blazer. 76-77 Bronco and F-150’s came stock with disc brakes, the calipers clip onto the bracket, and you would use stock 76-77 pads. So, really you need to determine if the calipers are fixed with a bolt, one top, one bottom, or if there are clips holding it to the caliper bracket.""

 

[tasker]

HE'S right....what have you got?

 

[mytmouse75]

Definitely GM

​So I'm looking at getting the EBC Green Stuff Light Truck SUV (Low dust) DP61145 - for 1975 Chevy K10

​or the ​ EBC Yellow Stuff (Heavy loads) DP41145R

​ I have the EBC Yellow Stuff (front & rear ) with front slotted drilled rotors on my Super Duty 7.3L Tow Vehicle and ABSOLUTELY LOVE THEM .

I don't think I need the yellow stuff - for the Bronco. I'll be going with the Green Stuff ;D
https://goo.gl/photos/uHnvufm41dVUjrks5

 

[Cortez]

Hi MyT,

After looking at your additional pics for steering geometry, I suspect you may have only a body lift. Which means caster angles would not be changed. The clues that lead me to think this is that your track bar has neither a drop bracket from the frame nor a riser bracket from the axle...yet your steering geometry (track bar and drag link) look parallel and in correct positions. Your front bumper seems to be mounted on top of the front frame rails rather than them mounting inside main part of bumper...that hides the body gap that is typically between body and frame with a body lift. To confirm this do you see some 3-4" pucks between frame and body mounting points?

Net result if you do confirm its body lift only....you still should check for loose attachment points, confirm the caster c-bushings are correct...but note that if you only have a body lift then caster should be stock because no suspension lift is n place to change it. And add to your list the steering box as potential suspect.

Can you describe your steering issues?

 

[mytmouse75]

Cortez,
Thanks, I'll doubled check (take pics), but I do recall only seeing a single rubber mount between frame and body. Meaning No body lift.
I've been told, I Need to measure from the top of the axle tube to the bottom of the frame rail on the front axle (easier to do this on the passenger side). Stock height measured 7”. Anything taller than that would tell me how much lift is on it ( i.e, 9.5 inch measurement would mean a 2.5” lift).