Newbie -> Just Got My -NEW TO ME- Bronco Need help, advice, parts

[mytmouse75]

Unless you plan on driving it like a race car they're a waste of money.

The ones that you can buy already slotted and/or drilled are made in China and have earned a very untrustworthy reputation due to low quality.

New Old Stock rotors and hubs do sometimes show up for sale (I picked up a pair on eBay).

If you want to spend some money on making them perform better and last longer having brake rotors cryo treated is a good idea.

What is cryo treated ?
?
?

 

[mytmouse75]

Thanks all, that's pretty much what I'm thinking.
I guess it's down to.the almighty dollar...
The slotted , drilled , and slotted and drilled are all around $80 each.
The plain good old Solid vented are $40 each,
Then there's HIGH CARBON ALLOY(???) For around $60 - (Rockauto.com)
Not sure what the high carbon one is all about , never used /heard before.. ???

I'm assuming to look for rotors for a 1977 Bronco is correct - right?
?
?

 

[sykanr0ng]

What is cryo treated ?
?
?

Cryogenic treatment:

http://www.300below.com/cryo-rotor-brake-rotors/

http://www.frozenrotors.com/help-support/brake-rotor-faq/

Rotor life increases 100% to 300%, pads life increase also.
They won't do used rotors because they may have cracks.

 

[mytmouse75]

I think that cryogenic is a bit over kill for this project.
This is mainly going to be a cruising truck with light trails and out on the beach (living on Long Island).
I see Summit Racing has their own slotted AND cross drilled rotors for $50 bucks (made over seas/China, along with most other brands) . They WOULD look nice through rim, but that's about all..
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-br-65013l

I think I may just get good old Raybestos (made in Canada) solid surface rotors. Besides if we do end up taking this thing on the beach it's let's places for sand to get caught up in...

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/agb-6048

 

[sykanr0ng]

I think that cryogenic is a bit over kill for this project.
This is mainly going to be a cruising truck with light trails and out on the beach (living on Long Island).
I see Summit Racing has their own slotted AND cross drilled rotors for $50 bucks (made over seas/China, along with most other brands) . They WOULD look nice through rim, but that's about all..
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-br-65013l

I think I may just get good old Raybestos (made in Canada) solid surface rotors. Besides if we do end up taking this thing on the beach it's let's places for sand to get caught up in...

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/agb-6048

From what I've seen Raybestos are made in China.
Closed their plant in Canada about 7 years ago.

 

[DirtDonk]

...Then there's HIGH CARBON ALLOY(???) For around $60 - (Rock Auto.com) Not sure what the high carbon one is all about , never used /heard before.. ???

Some companies (namely Raybestos for one) list those for heavy duty applications such as police cars and ambulances. I don't know the actual specifications and whether or not some of it is resistance to wear, or more as a resistance to overheating and warping.
Maybe a little of each and some other things.

Paul

 

[mytmouse75]

Thanks guy's, I'll know more when I take theses rotors off - should be enough to just get these cut/resurfaced. ..

 

[69broncofun]

I am getting a 69 Bronco ( has already been to see it) Front seats fold back so you can get into the back. Not sure if they are stock ( was told they are) maybe those might work. I am a newbie for Broncos so might not work. Anyone know?

 

[DirtDonk]

Stock seats did not fold back (recline) at all unfortunately. But they do fold forward (driver) and flip forward (passenger) for rear access.

Congrats on the purchase. Let us know when you get it home and post up some pics.

Paul

 

[mytmouse75]

Hey guy's hope all is well. I've been plugging away on sprucing/fixing up the Bronco. I'm looking at changing all the fluids next. I got the engine oil covered..
I was wondering if you can advise me - What type and how much for :

-- C4 Transmission - Does it call for Type F, or is it ok to use synthetic? I like to use AMSOIL. That's what I use on all my other stuff. I plan on flushing it. How many quarts?

-- Transfer case, I was advised it takes 80/90 .. Again I plan to change out with synthetic. How much?

-- Front/Rear diffs , Again, I was advised they take 80/90 .. Again I plan to change out with synthetic. How much?

Oh and also what's your preferred brand for cap/rotor, wires.? Looking to start fresh, not sure how old the ones in there are. Not looking to upgrade the ignition system or anything, just something good reliable, nice fitting (not wires that come too long and stuff) maybe like I don't know, Accell, or something. Nothing crazy expensive. I did want to spruce up with getting blue color though, to match the truck and get away from dull OEM gray... I've had good luck and plan to use E3 plugs..

 

[mytmouse75]

Still trying to find out the year of the motor by looking for the engine stamped/cast number. The only numbers I could find on the block was on drivers side back bottom corner and someone told me to drop the starter to look there.
Are either of these the right number and if so how do I decipher it to know the year of the motor?

See link of pictures.
https://goo.gl/photos/VXu8QKADdUGPqpJc6

 

[mytmouse75]

I'm also still looking for the Natural Safety Switch and Reverse light plug/connection to hook back up to my new B&M shifter. I'm not finding anything loop/jumped out from the former owner bypassing the NSS. I did find a plug harness with a loop, but those wires are going to the O2 sensors. I found some OLD relay type thing by the starter solenoid (2 yellow wires & 1 cut one), and then I found the OLD fuse box with cut wires and a LOT of missing fuses.
Looks like I may have to run new wiring from shifter in between wire going to starter from solenoid, and then a power lead from shifter to reverse lights.

I took pictures see link of pics:

https://goo.gl/photos/WYHspS6qNLgArYyP9

 

[DirtDonk]

...What type and how much for :

-- C4 Transmission - Does it call for Type F, or is it ok to use synthetic? I like to use AMSOIL. That's what I use on all my other stuff. I plan on flushing it. How many quarts?

Type F, or it's equivalent, can be regular or synthetic. Nothing at all wrong with using synthetic if you prefer.
I forget how many quarts, but someone will know. It would say in a service manual though, which you should probably have.

-- Transfer case, I was advised it takes 80/90 .. Again I plan to change out with synthetic. How much?

Incorrecto. Factory calls for 50wt motor oil. Period.
However, that "period" aside, many of us use the thinner synthetics. I use 75w/90 Redline because I like the way the thinner lube pumps through the Sta-Lube hand pump.
I figure the thinner lube would still splash up to lube the rear bearings, and it doesn't have the gear old additives that attack soft metals like bronze in the bushings. That was one of the main reasons for not using certain gear oils. I thin it was GL-4 that was causing the issues, but don't quote me on that.

-- Front/Rear diffs , Again, I was advised they take 80/90 .. Again I plan to change out with synthetic. How much?

Correct this time. But because a 75w/90 synthetic is acceptable, I just use the same stuff in all four gear boxes.

..I've had good luck and plan to use E3 plugs..

Most here pooh-pooh them as gimmicks, but I'm planning to run some in mine too. Most have not tried them yet, but some have and had mixed results. Let us know how your experience goes in this particular engine. I've noticed that different engine combinations like different plug types, so very interested to hear how yours work.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Still trying to find out the year of the motor by looking for the engine stamped/cast number. The only numbers I could find on the block was on drivers side back bottom corner and someone told me to drop the starter to look there...

Interesting. The second pic shows what I would have to say is a '91 engine block. Typically "F" is for the decade of the nineties (C=60's, D=70's, etc) and 1 is the year. The other numbers are the category and such.
A typical truck only part might say "C6TZxxxx-A" for instance, for something designed for the '66 model year truck line (the "T") with item and category numbers along with any Revisions.
Similarly, a "C6AZ-xxxx-A" would be from the car lineup even if it's used trucks. Typically the Falcon/Mustang/whatever lineup. It would only have a "T" in the number if it was a truck only item. A 302 engine could be used all across the Ford line.

Your number looks like a '91 design, built on the 25th of March, 1992.
Where the first "2" is the year, the second position "C" would be March, and the last position(s) being "25" indicate the day it was cast at the foundry.

So that's what it seems to be. Does that seen consistent with what else you know about this EFI conversion?

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

I'm also still looking for the Natural Safety Switch and Reverse light plug/connection to hook back up to my new B&M shifter. I'm not finding anything loop/jumped out from the former owner bypassing the NSS.

What transmission is in yours again?
And can you tell what wiring harness is being used on the body/chassis side, as opposed to the engine/EFI side? Never mind. Looked at the pics you posted and see mostly stock wiring. A bit hacked for sure! But still there.
Your factory '75 would use a square 4-wire plug right behind the driver's side valve cover area. The four wires would be (2) Red w/blue and (2) Black w/red. With the Red w/blue being the one looped if the truck had a manual trans originally. If it had an automatic originally, then there would be no loop because it had a neutral safety switch on the side of the transmission itself.
Can you get underneath and follow the wires from the switch on up across the bell housing? It would likely be there whether you had a C4 or a later AOD derivative like the 4R70W found in many Explorers.

I found some OLD relay type thing by the starter solenoid (2 yellow wires & 1 cut one),

It's likely the original horn relay. Can you post a pic?
Yep, just looked at the pics and it is indeed a factory horn relay. Not sure why they'd cut the wire other than to bypass it with another relay. But that close to the connector almost makes me think it melted. Wouldn't be the first time!

and then I found the OLD fuse box with cut wires and a LOT of missing fuses.

That's the one in the glovebox? If so, sounds like they did a lot of re-wiring and bypassing of things. Hopefully it was done "tastefully" as opposed to just hacking and hewing.
Nevermind... LOTS of hacking and hewing! Sorry I didn't look at the pics first. Thanks for posting so many. Good idea of what was done, but hard to trace individual things from the pics.
Gonna keep looking though...

Looks like I may have to run new wiring from shifter in between wire going to starter from solenoid, and then a power lead from shifter to reverse lights.

Might be best, what with the condition of the original wiring. Usually with wiring harnesses in this condition, newer EFI swaps have a tendency of not working. Or if working, not as well as they should.

Good luck. Will keep digging to see if I can see anything helpful.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

And sorry to add one more thing to your plate, but when you have a moment can you take a couple of close-up shots of your fuse panel for Steve83's information database?
Since we know yours is a '75 that would help to build more info in that regard. We have some earlier ones, up to about '73, but even that one was knot a known-'73. Just a supposed one.

Actually, I see you did get some decent shots, but the closer ones with potentially more detail could use some better lighting.
Not that I'm complaining mind you! Just being persnickety and demanding...;D

Thanks

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

I think we forgot to detail a couple of things you were asking about awhile back.
The passenger seat is not stock, nor is it on stock hardware. So you're on your own as to how to make it pivot forward.
The right side front "foot" or stand is actually the stock piece, but there is nothing on the seat to use as a hinge to pivot on. The original seat had two front mounting points were pivots, and the left rear was a latch. The right rear was just a foot with (sometimes) a rubber bumper.
Yours likely has four bolts holding it in place. You'll have to custom fabricate the mechanism to have it fold forward like stock.

The NSS is obviously MIA on your transmission. Looks like it might have started life as a car trans, where the NSS was on the lower end of the steering column inside the cabin. Nice clean place to stay out of the weather, but not very convenient on a Bronco column. Most trucks I've seen used the switch that was mounted to the side of the case like in your early pictures.

So with no switch to plug to the chassis harness, you likely have a single 4-wire connector that's only half of a connector. Or the PO simply cut it off, since it sounds like you still have not found it.
If it's still intact, it would not be far from where we were talking before. Somewhere at the firewall between the steering column and the intake manifold. Coming out of the firewall as part of the wiring harness. If it's not there, it's not there. If not, you'll have to go to Plan-B and punt.

Paul

 

[mytmouse75]

Dirt Donk, first I want to say a big THANK YOU - AGAIN!

>Yes, it's a C4 trans. Not sure if original to truck (prob not) I think I may hold off (for now) on changing the trans fluid. It seems clean, bright red - like New !

> 75w/90 synthetic for all gear boxes - really ?

> If not E3 plugs, What's preferred for the 302 - NGK, Motorcraft ? I have not run the E3's in the 302 before, but I've had good luck w/them in other vehicles. I just want good spark/reliability... Also how about cap/rotor - have trouble finding decent set, also the cap base to go along with a new (preferred blue) cap?

> SWEET now I finally know this motor is a 91' 302 5.0L HO EFI

> I'll look again for the square 4-wire plug, but I believe it's MIA, like A LOT of things (like a new/another fuse box or an OBD diag port). "HACK" comment seems to be correct! But at least, other than the NSS & reverse lights everything else SEEMS to be working. I'll just go fwd thinking I'll have to rewire myself. So am I correct with wiring the shifters new NSS switch in between the wire from the starter solenoid to the starter (in my case it's the smaller gauge green wire)?

> I'll try to get a better shot of the org. glove box fuse block

> The pass. seat I fig. I'm either going to make/get bracket that slide far enough fwd. to get in back, or I've been reading some use the Bronco II seat bracket that siccors up & fwd, But they seem hard to find, I may (dare I say it) have to use a jeep seat bracket. I think if I can just get the seat to slide far enough fwd. I'll go that route.

***New problem I'm running into now - Has anyone used/hooked up the B&M (Star Shifter) to a C4 w/ the EFI throttle body kick down cable? I'm noticing the kick dwn cable bracket is mounted right where the B&M cable bracket mount is supposed to go (one of the rear servo cover lower bolts, where the B&M bracket says to use both (2) of the lower servo cover bolts)!!!

 

[DirtDonk]

...>Yes, it's a C4 trans. Not sure if original to truck (prob not) I think I may hold off (for now) on changing the trans fluid. It seems clean, bright red - like New !

That's good news, but you're ok to change it anyway. As far as I know, all C4's took Type-F fluid no matter what they came out of and no matter what year.
The C6 used Type-F in early versions and Dexron in later years (like my '79 does).

> 75w/90 synthetic for all gear boxes - really ?

Yep. In my case I used it in the front and rear diffs, 3-speed manual transmission and the D20 transfer case. Even used it for a short time in the manual steering gearbox, but changed over to a thicker 140 based synthetic with grease mixed in.
All gear boxes worked perfectly and, where applicable, shifted like butter.
Ran that setup for close to 75k miles like that. Just changed the lube every 25 to 35 thousand miles. Cheap insurance...

> If not E3 plugs, What's preferred for the 302 - NGK, Motorcraft ? I have not run the E3's in the 302 before, but I've had good luck w/them in other vehicles. I just want good spark/reliability...

I don't see anything wrong with trying your preferred plug to see how it works in your 302. But it's hard to go wrong with Motorcraft/Autolite parts too. Usually standard tips, rather than fancy platinum or irridium types. Because we're not dealing with 100k mile tuneups here (more like 10k!), unless you have some super wazoo big dog ignition, the standards seem to work well.

Also how about cap/rotor - have trouble finding decent set, also the cap base to go along with a new (preferred blue) cap?

I've never been too brand conscious because I didn't need to be 40 years ago. Now it's another story though!
But here again, Motorcraft or Autolite or Standard Motor Products are going to be pretty decent. As long as you always opt for the brass contact point stuff, rather than the less expensive and less durable aluminum versions.
Your local supplier will know what they have in either style, so just specify brass.

So am I correct with wiring the shifters new NSS switch in between the wire from the starter solenoid to the starter (in my case it's the smaller gauge green wire)?

Should be the smaller gauge Red w/blue wire. You can double check yours though, by inspecting the smaller 90° push-on connector usually on the left side of the starter relay/solenoid.
The right side is usually a small Brown wire. That's for ignition duties, so not the one you want. The other one "should be" a Red w/blue wire. That's the one that you need to track back to the firewall or ignition switch.
Wire one side of your NSS to the ignition switch side of the wire, and the other to the starter relay side of the wire. Just like you were saying.

> I'll try to get a better shot of the org. glove box fuse block

Thanks. Appreciate you taking the time. Your pics were actually better than most already. So figure you're a good one to get some great reference shots for a '75.
Is yours the one we were talking about just a few days ago that was built in Nov of '74?

 

[mytmouse75]

Is yours the one we were talking about just a few days ago that was built in Nov of '74?

I believe so. I had found the ID label on the door jam which show 74'.



Any ideas with the B&M shifter & the throttle body down shifter cable bracket mount issue?

.