NV3550 Won't Shift into Gear

[DirtDonk]

Depends on just how crude your mod is.
But it’s certainly worth re-visiting both the mods you made, AND the options to drill.

While it’s off, get us an engineering number from the bellhousing.
Shoot some extensive pictures of the linkage, the fork, the pivot point, the throwout bearing, etc.

Thanks

 

[73azbronco]

That confirms an issue with the linkage not pushing the throw out bearing far enough for it to disengage the clutch.

This, i had issue adjusting my 4500, lots of time underneath to get full clutch throw by about 3/4ths pedal to floor.

 

[Jambi]

Here's some pics of the flywheel, disc, clutch and bellhousing. I'll post pics of the linkage when I have the transmission back in.

 

[.94 OR]

Is there only one style of throw out bearing?

 

[DirtDonk]

There is one throwout bearing number that fits most of our modest size Ford cars and trucks.
It’s not the only Ford throwout bearing, but it’s one of the most common.
I used to have the part number memorized, but that was a long time ago.
Something like “N1439” or something like that.
But the fact that there was only one that covered many vehicles, doesn’t mean that you got the correct one anyway. Got a picture of yours?

So, a “C5T“ bell housing, eh?
Is that aluminum, or just painted silver?
That would be an early bell housing and would normally take the early bail style pivot with spring on the fork. That looks like it was maybe retrofitted with the later style pivot riveted to it? I could be wrong on that. Do you have a picture of it from an angle?
Those do look like standard factory type rivets. I’ve replaced them before, using both the common factory rivets, and the even more common low profile screws and nuts.
Just wondering about a mismatch between the fork and pivot.

 

[Jambi]

@DirtDonk, the bellhousing is not aluminum, just painted silver. Below are closer pics of the clutch fork tab inside the bellhousing, clutch fork throwout bearing and a .mov file of the fork moving the throwout bearing. Hopefully it gives a sense of how much throwout there is. Unfortunately, I'm not sure what model throwout bearing it is or what the number is, but it's the one that comes with the Deluxe NV3550 Adapter Kit from WH (SKU 7199).

 

[hunter1]

Not sure if anyone has mentioned this yet, but is there a chance the input shaft was stuck in the pilot bushing? Not allowing the shaft to stop?

 

[Jambi]

This post shows the engine side equalizer and the mod I made to the EFI equalizer bracket. I cut the engine side equalizer since my bellhousing didn't have the hole for that second bolt, and I welded (don't judge my welds ) the EFI equalizer bracket to the cut, engine side equalizer. That bottom bellhousing bolt holds the bracket/equalizer in place really well. I'm also including a .mov of how much the frame side equalizer moves upward at full push of the clutch pedal.

 

[DirtDonk]

I could be wrong, so wait for others who’ve done this more recently to chime in. But I think you have a mismatch between the fork and pivot.
Notice the metal clip on the inside of the fork? That’s normally supposed to go through a slot in the pivot bracket riveted to the bell housing. Yours is the early style and does not have this slot.
Doesn’t seem like it would be much, but this would definitely misalign the fork, and therefore the throwout bearing.
It’s not pivoting where it should be. It’s pivoting on the spring steel clip, instead of under it, on the fork itself. You can see the wear marks on top of the clip.

Does that sound like a possible culprit anybody?

 

[DirtDonk]

Also, is there a hole in your bell housing that you could access the grease fitting? I’ve never actually used a greaseable throwout bearing before, so don’t know how they expect you to maintain the grease.
Normally, of course, they are lubed for life. But having the ability to add a little, seems like a good idea.
As long as you don’t add too much!

Maybe now is the time to see about drilling a hole through the opposite side of the bell housing. Assuming that would even work?

 

[Jambi]

I could be wrong, so wait for others who’ve done this more recently to chime in. But I think you have a mismatch between the fork and pivot.
Notice the metal clip on the inside of the fork? That’s normally supposed to go through a slot in the pivot bracket riveted to the bell housing. Yours is the early style and does not have this slot.
Doesn’t seem like it would be much, but this would definitely misalign the fork, and therefore the throwout bearing.
It’s not pivoting where it should be. It’s pivoting on the spring steel clip, instead of under it, on the fork itself. You can see the wear marks on top of the clip.

Does that sound like a possible culprit anybody?

@DirtDonk, sorry, meant to post this picture too, the tab does have the slot for that metal clip on the fork and I've ensured that clip is through it when I installed the fork:

 

[.94 OR]

Your picture of the underside of the shift fork looks like the paint is wearing roughly 1/2" before it nests on the bell housing pivot in the stamped divot.
I would assume for everything to be aligned, the stamped "V" in the fork should rest over the top of the greased pivot. No?

 

[Jambi]

Good eye @.94 OR! I just adjusted it and now the throwout bearing throws out evenly to the end of the smooth portion of the input shaft rather than throwing out to over the splines as it shows in the clip I posted in post #26.

 

[DirtDonk]

Maybe somebody can measure their pedal travel. See if it’s the same as yours at the rod.

I was thinking about something the other day, wondering if your clutch pedal bump stop is adjusted too far down.
It doesn’t really have a huge range of adjustment, but you might check the rubber bump stop at the top. It’s on an eccentric bolt and can be moved in and out.
This raises the pedal’s up position, up or down to better match the brake pedal. Or personal preference.
Just thinking that if it’s all the way down, it might be limiting your travel just that little smidge to make a difference.

 

[Jambi]

Got the transmission back in yesterday but since I had to order the gasket that goes between the Dana 20 transmission adapter and transmission, I probably won't be able to install the transfer case until (hopefully) the end of the week if the gasket gets here by then.

 

[CowboyGrin]

Hopefully not hijacking again, but my situation appears fixed thanks to some of the tips shared here. I removed my ax15, bellhousing/fork/throwout bearing, and pressure plate. The clutch disc was installed correctly (not crazy… yet). I did find the pivot tab not seated in the V of the clutch fork like @.94 OR and Jambi discussed. In fact, the tab was so far past the V that throwout bearing was barely hanging on the end of the fork. Apparently I wasn’t careful enough with the fork on my first go.

After reassembly, the first few attempts to spin the output shaft with the tranny in gear while disengaging the clutch showed no improvement. It would barely turn in high gear only using vise grips. Oddly, the output shaft began spinning freely in all gears after the third or fourth try, using just a bare hand without tools. I suspect some combination of the fork, pivot tab, throwout bearing, and/or the diaphragm fingers were getting hung up on each other until finally settling in.

Thanks for the dialog and hope Jambi finds similar luck.

 

[blade]

moves upward at full push of the clutch pedal.

View attachment 937100 View attachment 937101 View attachment 937102 View attachment 937103
View attachment 937104

Not sure how much it will alter the movement of your clutch but the ball location for your z bar mount is different than a stock mount.

 

[Jambi]

I haven't posted an update in a while because while my transfer case was out I decided to rebuild it and it's been slow going for a variety of reasons. When I have it back together and installed I'll give an update on my transmission shifting issue.

 

[roundhouse]

Any updates ?

 

[Jambi]

I'm finally back to getting things going with the NV3550 and still have an issue. Yesterday I attempted to start my Bronco and there's a very loud noise when I turn the key to start. I'm not even sure how to discern what it is. I have a brand new starter; maybe it's not engaging the flywheel fully? Maybe the clutch? This is so frustrating! I'll record the noise and post it here later. Maybe someone can tell what it is by the sound.

@roundhouse I see in your signature you have an NV3550. Did you run into anything like this when you did yours?