Occasional click and no start

[barronj]

Occasionally lately, I've driven the bronco a short distance, started with no issue, when I get to my destination, let it sit, come back to it, no start, just a click. Come back to it later, it starts again.

What are the common fail points in the ignition system and how do you test them?

I built this bronco in 2010, it's had the same aftermarket ignition components since I built it, just an MSD coil & 6AL

351W, 5 spd.

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, my guess is that the starter is getting heat soak, and the electrical resistance in the starter is too high. When the starter cools off, the resistance is lower. I would get the starter tested at an auto parts store. Good luck

 

[Slowleak]

Before you pull the starter, check your battery cables at both ends. Make sure the connections are clean and tight. Mine did exactly what you describe and it was the negative cable where it bolts to the block.

 

[Brush Hog]

Same for me. Had same problem then one day it left me stranded. It was a frayed ground wire on the negative battery cable.

 

[nvrstuk]

-what others have said. It is NOT your ignition. Your ignition doesn't do anything till your engine is cranking over. Even tho MSD stands for My Spark Disappeared that isn't the cause

WIsh ya the best, it's cables or your starter. Tip: if the cables have corrosion and and you brushed it off then you really need to mix up some baking soda and water and actually dip the cables into the solution to get the corrosion and acid from the cables (and btw the strands). Rinse it thoroughly and don't get any of the solution on your battery.

 

[bax]

Sometimes its a natural safety switch, but I see you have a 5 speed so that is less likely.

 

[Steve83]

Always start at the battery terminals. Read this page:



You should put ALL your truck's details & history (as much as you know) into your signature so it shows with each post, as this page explains:

(click this text)


Put your location (nearest city) in your profile &/or signature, & upload an avatar of the truck. The more pics you post (NOT in your sig) of the truck, engine, wiring, labels, & undercarriage, the more likely we can help you. Not all its details are relevant to these issues, but you don't necessarily know which ones are relevant, so just put everything in now.

 

[nvrstuk]

What Steve said!

 

[barronj]

Thanks gang. I pulled the starter and had it tested, and I think I lost my Tag in the process. I remember taking my watch off, and I probably absentmindedly set it on the bumper of my F250... then drove off

Tested fine, so I cleaned off the power lead where it attaches to the battery. Works until it doesn't, I guess. I picked up a new starter solenoid JIC (there's a sticker on the starter that advises you to change the solenoid when you change the starter).

 

[Slednut10]

Check the ground where the starter relay screws to the fender. I’ve had corrosion there cause this same issue. Might also be the ground path to the inner fender that is crummy.

 

[Slowleak]

Since you went to all that work and found nothing wrong, I would do the easy part now and check those cables. Not just the terminals at the battery, but both ends of the positive and negative cables, and the ground that Slednut mentioned. It’s easier to do it now than in a parking lot in the middle of the night……

 

[Steve83]

...there's a sticker on the starter that advises you to change the solenoid when you change the starter...

"JIC" is not a good reason to replace anything that's not on the published schedule. Obviously, parts mfr.s & retailers would LOVE for you to replace a bunch of other parts, every time you replace one. But Ford says to ONLY replace the parts that fail published tests, or those that are due on the maintenance schedule (the starter relay isn't on it). So if you still have the previous relay, I highly recommend putting it back on, and returning both the new starter and relay for refund. Then DIAGNOSE before wrenching or spending from now on. You'll save time, money, & frustration.

 

[nvrstuk]

Like I said earlier, check the cables... I have seen corroded cables UNDER the insulation cause the exact issues you're dealing with. Dozens of times. I wrenched for years, dealership, Independent shop, heavy equipment rental equipment and trying to get my students to believe 1/2 of what I told them. This group here is extremely qualified. Cables can be the cause more often than most people believe and w/o showing any color.

 

[rocknhorse76]

Like others have said, this sounds like an electrical issue. Either corroded cables/terrminals, or bad grounds. You can never have too many grounds (unless one of them is a short to the positive terminal lol). In my 27 years as a commercial/industrial electrician, I can tell you that a good majority of electrical issues I’ve seen have been due to bad grounding. If all of your cables and connections check out, try adding a ground jumper from the engine block and/or battery to the body. Make sure you have one between the block and frame as well. That’ll ensure that your body and frame are electrically bonded and your starter relay (and everything else grounded to the body and frame) has a good ground path back to the battery. Don’t rely on the body mounts as a solid ground path. Also, make sure that all of your ground connection points are to clean metal. Rust and paint are piss-poor conductors!

 

[barronj]

"JIC" is not a good reason to replace anything that's not on the published schedule. Obviously, parts mfr.s & retailers would LOVE for you to replace a bunch of other parts, every time you replace one. But Ford says to ONLY replace the parts that fail published tests, or those that are due on the maintenance schedule (the starter relay isn't on it). So if you still have the previous relay, I highly recommend putting it back on, and returning both the new starter and relay for refund. Then DIAGNOSE before wrenching or spending from now on. You'll save time, money, & frustration.

I didn't replace the starter, the sticker was still on it from when I replaced it a few years back; it still looks new. Appreciate your input Steve!

 

[barronj]

Since you went to all that work and found nothing wrong, I would do the easy part now and check those cables. Not just the terminals at the battery, but both ends of the positive and negative cables, and the ground that Slednut mentioned. It’s easier to do it now than in a parking lot in the middle of the night……

I love this place

 

[DirtDonk]

Someone mentioned heat... With all the mods you've got listed, do you have headers too?
Is your starter relay/solenoid still mounted to the inner wheel well facing the headers? Even Ford moved the relay to the front of the wheel well (facing the battery instead of the hot exhaust) on later models. I think the '68 still had it facing the exhaust though. Correct?
Just wondering if heat is still the issue.

Another thing for you to note when this happens. Does everything else still work? Or do you lose most of your electrical functions, including lights, heater and hazard flashers?
If you don't, that does not help narrow it down yet. But if you do lose all the other stuff, then it's a flat out 99.99% guarantee that it's one or more of your battery cables dying an early death.
How old are they? What condition are they in?

Good luck. Intermittent sucks!
But at least your intermittent seems consistent...

Paul

 

[barronj]

Cables are pretty recent but yes, the relay faces the BC Broncos headers. It's closer to the alternator than the primary but if Ford moved it in later years, that's a big clue. We're starting to dry out here after a string of wet days so I'll probably turn wrenches this week.