Oops! I created bump steer - Help:

[danroot]

Long story short:

Our 1972 Bronco had a 3" lift and needed ball joints, tie rod ends etc. Decided to install 1.5" lift springs instead. Made sure to install a stock pitman arm to keep the geometry correct. Now I have crazy bump steer. The 3" springs with drop pitman arm didn't have bump steer, but this combo has it bad. I don't think I can put the drop pitman arm back on. I think it would cause parts to make contact.

To me, looks like the geometry is okay.

Pics attached, any help/advice is greatly appreciated.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Pictures of the track bar bracket please.

The drop pitman arm works in partner with a drop track bar bracket. It looks like there may be a custom drop track bar bracket from what little I can see. Doing just a drop pitman arm or a drop track bracket will give bump steer. It is an all or nothing if you don't want bump steer.

 

[danroot]

That's it! With the 3" lift it had, there was the proper pitman arm and track bar bracket. It's welded so know I have to figure out where to drill new holes. Assume I can do that.

 

[DirtDonk]

Are you sure you don’t have a 76 or 77 frame?
That looks like the late model frame bracket.
Either that, or somebody customized your 72 by adding a 76/77 track bar bracket instead of an aftermarket version

And yes, in theory, you should be able to drill new holes. If you think those welds were done properly to stay together.
Also, you’ll have to look inside the bracket to make sure it doesn’t step in or out where you want to put the holes. In which case you might have to use spacers.

 

[serial car restorer]

In theory, I'd guess you should move the holes up the same amount as the difference in the two pitman arms. If the drop arm is 1.5" drop (example only), drill the holes 1.5" higher. If you have an adjustable track bar, you'll probably need to tweak the adjustment on it.

 

[Jedeka]

It looks to me like the track bar isn’t running parallel to the drag link. If you are going to keep the frame mounted track bar drop bracket, but drill new holes, you could get an idea where to drill by moving the track bar until It’s parallel to the drag link.

 

[76RedRanger]

It looks like an anti sway bar bracket welded on the passenger side axle tube. If it is that D44 might be out of a 76/77.

 

[DirtDonk]

But before you do any of that…
Loosen up your tie rod and drag link adjusting sleeves.
Rotate the tie rod center link “back” until the drag link Zerk fitting points roughly up at the bottom of the radiator.
Tighten all the adjusting sleeves back down.

This will serve two purposes. It will raise the lower end of the drag link, lowering the overall angle.
It will also reduce the instance of “Tie-rod roll“ which doesn’t do your street manners any good either.
Once you’ve done that, you can see where your track bar needs to go.

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, I know this is outside the box, but I would also check the drag on each steering knuckle. If either one does not move freely enough, you will have steering issues. Good luck

 

[danroot]

Drilled new holes, measured best I could to make arms parallel and bump steer is gone! Drives SO much better.

Before and after pics attached.

 

[serial car restorer]

Nice! And less stress on the weld-on drop bracket with the bar mounted that high. Sounds like a win to me.

 

[DirtDonk]

At some point you’re still going to want to turn the tie-rod like I suggested.