Opinion on axels…

[Slick67]

I swore there was a kit or something for running 35 spline in sd’s?
No??

Thank goodness for mustang guys:
https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/35-spline-axles-in-9-small-bearing-rear.1133353/

 

[Broncobowsher]

Another way of saying it...
If you are going to be putting that much into beefy center section and axles, you better upgrade the housing itself to be at the same level and the rest of the axle guts. I've known plenty of cracked stock 9" housings. I've cracked every one I owned in the same place on the passenger side. The rear cover on my last one cracked and I have helped weld shut that same crack on other Broncos. Used a bottle jack and a length of old cable to straighten stock housings as well. The stock housing isn't that great of a piece. They are fine for what they were. But as tire size goes up and the power level goes up as well, there are a lot of good parts to put into a 9", but the housing is also worth considering upgrading.

If you are doing a new housing, you are not locked into the original bearings. There are better options.

 

[Yeller]

The housing is weak at best. I’ve never checked an early small banjo, small tube housing that was straight, with your power level even on the street a new housing is needed. The axle tubes bend forward with HP, a manual trans amplifies that. With an auto 31 spline would be plenty for your described use, with a manual 35 spline and a True Trac, you will be happy for a life time. The horror stories of axles sliding out virtually are non existent with the set 20 bearing. All of the sealed ball bearings big and small the retainer is too small, it will fail, just a matter of when.

All of those small bearing 31 spline and 35 spline set ups are just setting you up for failure. Even big bearing sealed ball bearing is too, those are not designed to support the side loads a 31” tire generates let alone a 35” tire. Spend it once and never have to spend it again, you are saving money over time by far. Been there done all of that.

 

[DirtDonk]

And at least in our case, the smaller version of the bearing is far more expensive than the regular version.
So it’s almost a wash trying to do all the custom stuff, as opposed to just buying a new housing right upfront. You get a reinforced heavy duty, housing with big bearing ends for just a few hundred dollars more.
Although that $300 per pair is a pretty good price that was quoted above.
A good housing should be $450-$600. A monster heavy duty never worry about again housing is probably 1500.

 

[Slick67]

Well poop! Maybe I need to get on the horn and see if they have a whole housing option with their 4 link tabs already in place…..

 

[DirtDonk]

So you're four-linking it then? Who's doing the brackets on your old housing? Another company, or are you doing it with parts from a 4-link designer?
That 4-link setup does change the reliability aspect of things like u-joints and driveshafts. Maybe not so much for the yokes themselves, and maybe not for smaller u-joints. But it does add some protection from certain damages done while behaving "sportingly" outdoors.

Whoever is making the 4-link setup, including bracketry, should not have any issues doing it on a stock rear end housing, vs a beefier aftermarket setup.
The heavy-duty setups like our Super-9 ( Wild Horses Super-9 Housing ) are based off of the Ford "truck" housings and so should not be out of their experience.
Ours already has the spring perches welded in place, so getting their own choice of housings for the link brackets would at least save some time in removing existing stuff.
With the added links, you're likely looking at every aspect being custom anyway. Things like brake line locations, axle vent location, and shock mount location are going to be working around the link mounts.

Paul

 

[Slick67]

And at least in our case, the smaller version of the bearing is far more expensive than the regular version.
So it’s almost a wash trying to do all the custom stuff, as opposed to just buying a new housing right upfront. You get a reinforced heavy duty, housing with big bearing ends for just a few hundred dollars more.
Although that $300 per pair is a pretty good price that was quoted above.
A good housing should be $450-$600. A monster heavy duty never worry about again housing is probably 1500.

Should I just get a dana60?

 

[Slick67]

So you're four-linking it then? Who's doing the brackets on your old housing? Another company, or are you doing it with parts from a 4-link designer?
That 4-link setup does change the reliability aspect of things like u-joints and driveshafts. Maybe not so much for the yokes themselves, and maybe not for smaller u-joints. But it does add some protection from certain damages done while behaving "sportingly" outdoors.

Whoever is making the 4-link setup, including bracketry, should not have any issues doing it on a stock rear end housing, vs a beefier aftermarket setup.
The heavy-duty setups like our Super-9 ( Wild Horses Super-9 Housing ) are based off of the Ford "truck" housings and so should not be out of their experience.
Ours already has the spring perches welded in place, so getting their own choice of housings for the link brackets would at least save some time in removing existing stuff.
With the added links, you're likely looking at every aspect being custom anyway. Things like brake line locations, axle vent location, and shock mount location are going to be working around the link mounts.

Paul

it’s the duff’s coil 4link kit

 

[DirtDonk]

Ahh, so it's (I believe) made around the '66-to-'76 "banjo" style housing. Not the '77 and full-size truck housings.
Still available in big-bearing, so that's not a problem. But might take some cutting, grinding and "general tweaking" of the brackets to fit the HD housings.
Maybe part of your parts search can be for someone selling a big bearing housing off of their Bronco that they've already swapped in a heavier duty version.

I have one out of my '71 (well, not "out of" quite yet!) but you'd have to be nearby to make it worthwhile.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Should I just get a dana60?

Not out of the question at this point in the discussion.

 

[Slick67]

The different bolt pattern would suck a lot tho

 

[jamesroney]

Should I just get a dana60?

Always.

35 spline ARB semi float with big bearing Torino ends and Explorer discs for the win.

 

[Slick67]

Always.

35 spline ARB semi float with big bearing Torino ends and Explorer discs for the win.

Wow! So yer still a 5 bolt lug

How big of a deal is that to do? Basically buy a $200 rear-end and $500 in Napa parts and start welding?

 

[1969]

14 bolt or Sterling 10.5 rear and be done with it.

 

[DirtDonk]

Except for the 8-lug wheels, you mean.

 

[Slick67]

Except for the 8-lug wheels, you mean.

U see the 5 lug conversion for the dana60 above?!
Would doing that still support an ox locker?

 

[Slick67]

Except for the 8-lug wheels, you mean.

a 60 with 5 lug, disc, e-brake and locker right now may be the way to go, and just be done.
I’ve always preferred the ox-lockers anyhow!

 

[DirtDonk]

I don’t think the axle shaft cares what brand/style the differential is.
The Dana 60 differential has its specifications, the outer end with bearings, flanges and stud count has its specifications, and you simply have custom axles made to match both.
So you can choose whatever Dana 60 differential you want in the center, and get your five lug axles with 9 inch wheel bearings and you’re good to go.
Or just the inners, if you can find a 60 with standard bearings as opposed to full floater ends.
My previous comment was directed at the “and done“ aspect of the 1969’s comment. It’d be the same for a Dana 60, Sterling, or 14-bolt.
Unless you are planning to use eight lug wheels all the way around, it’s not done until you have custom axles made, and the ends redone to match.

 

[jamesroney]

a 60 with 5 lug, disc, e-brake and locker right now may be the way to go, and just be done.
I’ve always preferred the ox-lockers anyhow!

That's where I ended up. (...Every time)
And the 60 is certainly supported by OX. Eaton E-locker too. Even the Yukon Zip locker is bulletproof in a 60. Can't get that with a 9 inch.

I try not to pay more than $75. for a bare Dana 60 housing. The one in the pic came from an International Travelall. I paid $100, but it came with a new set of 4.88's and a full spool.

And yeah, I bought the 5 lug Hutchinson Rock Monsters. So I'm gonna be 5 lug for a while.

 

[lars]

Always.

35 spline ARB semi float with big bearing Torino ends and Explorer discs for the win.

Really, the only important things in that photo are the Yuban cans. Have a whole collection myself!