Project: 76, Orange Special Decor

[gnsteam]

But that comes with a caveat.
Definitely take a sample of the materials tou’re going to have on the floor and lay them under the pedal.
Push the pedal all the way and verify that the throttles are wide open.
The caveat is then, how high does the pedal come up to retract? There are many scenarios with Ford Efi where the pedal is far too high in order to get the full travel.
If you then put the pedal where it’s comfortable for your foot, ankle, knee, and hip, then it won’t open the throttle blade all the way.

You might have to mimic the bell crank set up that changes the ratio. Sort of a variable pulley setup.
I think it was Viperwolf1 basically taking a wheel/roller, creating an eccentric, so that the throttle moves slowly at first and then accelerates as you push it past halfway.
This was not primarily for full travel achievement, as much as it was to reduce the instantaneous (over exuberant) lurching during tip-in.

Thanks Paul for the advice. I will take a look at Viperwolfs post again.

 

[gnsteam]

Thanks Paul for the advice. I will take a look at Viperwolfs post again.

But that comes with a caveat.
Definitely take a sample of the materials tou’re going to have on the floor and lay them under the pedal.
Push the pedal all the way and verify that the throttles are wide open.
The caveat is then, how high does the pedal come up to retract? There are many scenarios with Ford Efi where the pedal is far too high in order to get the full travel.
If you then put the pedal where it’s comfortable for your foot, ankle, knee, and hip, then it won’t open the throttle blade all the way.

You might have to mimic the bell crank set up that changes the ratio. Sort of a variable pulley setup.
I think it was Viperwolf1 basically taking a wheel/roller, creating an eccentric, so that the throttle moves slowly at first and then accelerates as you push it past halfway.
This was not primarily for full travel achievement, as much as it was to reduce the instantaneous (over exuberant) lurching during tip-in.

Hi Paul, I took a look at viperwolf's, progressive Tb link mod.
https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threads/progressive-tb-linkage.156534/
Its an interesting modification. The TB linkage on my TB is different than pictured in Viperwolfs thread. Not being familiar with the Mustang TB conversion as mentioned in the thread. I will need to do some more investigation. Or create something similar in operation that will work with my TB style.

I'm going to table this modification for now. And give my current setup a try. Unless some has already made a modification to my style of TB and is willing to share their modification.

 

[gnsteam]

Some interior work this afternoon. I installed the passenger seat. And with the wife's help. We worked out the location of the center console. The console is the Lock and Load console. Once sold through Wildhorses. I've had this console sitting on a shelf for 7 years.

 

[.94 OR]

That interior is looking sharp.
I fabricated/installed a similar cup holder on the front of a custom center console on a Yota a couple years back. I had bought some black foamy tool box drawer liner prior to that and had to trim about 4" off the roll to fit my tool drawers. As the hoarder I am, I still had the roll of the trim pieces. I cut a long piece to go in the bottom of the cup holder extending past both ends with a flare at each corner (small dog bone if you will) so that it held in place both laterally and kept it from curling up. Really quieted the cups from rattling on the bottom and kept them centered. I could have glued it in, but liked the idea of being able to lift it out for cleaning if the need arose.

 

[gnsteam]

That interior is looking sharp.
I fabricated/installed a similar cup holder on the front of a custom center console on a Yota a couple years back. I had bought some black foamy tool box drawer liner prior to that and had to trim about 4" off the roll to fit my tool drawers. As the hoarder I am, I still had the roll of the trim pieces. I cut a long piece to go in the bottom of the cup holder extending past both ends with a flare at each corner (small dog bone if you will) so that it held in place both laterally and kept it from curling up. Really quieted the cups from rattling on the bottom and kept them centered. I could have glued it in, but liked the idea of being able to lift it out for cleaning if the need arose.

Sounds like a great idea. I'm going to get some acurate measurements of the cup holder. And have my son in law. 3D print a tray that will fit inside the holder. And feature a lip around it, to retain the condensation. And retain a piece of cushioning material as you describe. Thanks for the suggestion about the material you used.

 

[.94 OR]

That should work good.
I wanted to add lights to my '12 F150 without punching holes in the dash. Came out from under the dash, using existing holes, and used a thin wall steel square to drop two rocker switches in. Needed to print the adapter. I just printed a hole for a retaining screw to feed in to. If it were a higher load situation I have brass thread-serts I could have embedded in the plastic but not needed here. 3D printing is quite handy.

 

[Bruners4]

@gnsteam I have about 8 feet of toolbox drawer liner for this winter's rearrange tools project. I'm sure that there will be a piece for you in there somewhere. The Yard in Wichita, KS sells this stuff by the yard. I think I got 4 or 5 yards to make sure that I got enough of it the first trip. It's 4' wide.

 

[Rox Crusher]

Man this build is simply beautiful. So much attention to detail! Great job gnsteam! One of my favorite Broncos.

 

[gnsteam]

Man this build is simply beautiful. So much attention to detail! Great job gnsteam! One of my favorite Broncos.

Thank you Rox.

 

[gnsteam]

Tonight I finished the rebuild of the stock steering column. The rebuild required new upper and lower, shaft bearings. New gear position indicator and position display. Also a new turn signal mechanism/wire harness, shift lever grommet and rubber firewall seal.

 

[gnsteam]

Here is another little project from the week. It is a temporary cover plate and shifter boot setup. To cover the twin sticks tunnel hole. Just a piece of 10-12 guage sheet metal I have laying around. I painted it black. Tapped 5, 6-32 holes for the boot flange. And one countersink hole for 1/4" FHCS. The 1/4" screw draws up a piece of tapped bar stock. Up against the under side of the tunnel sheet metal. At two points on either side of the old J shift, tunnel opening.

It is only a temporary fix, until I build a custom tunnel console between the firewall and the center console.

 

[904Bronco]

Very Clean...

 

[gnsteam]

I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving. Ours was great. Not much Bronco progress to show, through pictures that is. Over the last few weeks. Bruners4 and I, have been working on the Painless chassis harness. Removing and adding wires as needed. And wrapping the harness in Tesa tape. It should be ready to install soon. I have a few fabrication/machining projects set aside for the warm shop. On the cold days to come. A bracket to hang the charcoal cannister on the drivers side firewall. And an experimental twin stick, tunnel opening cover. That will mount to a console design I am working on. Over the last week. I glued in the lower door weather striping. Using the @Slowleak weather strip suggestions.

Once the adhesive had dried. I re-installed the front kick panel legs for the roll cage. Next up I cleared out all the parts being stored in the back of the Bronco. So I could install the new fold and tumble, rear seat. Don't mind the extra 4 riv-nuts in the floor. I forgot to measure twice.

Well thats it for now. I should get some more time in the shop or garage this long weekend.

 

[Teal68]

Nice! Getting close!

 

[gnsteam]

Last week, I fabricated a bracket. To mount a new charcoal canister for the fuel system. The canister needs to be relocated to the driver side firewall of the engine bay. Because the ECU is now in location where the canister was.

Thursday night, Buners4 and I stated the Painless wiring harness install.

We were able to get the harness pulled thru the firewall gromets on both side of the engine bay. The driver side harness is all wrapped in the Painless supplied, flexible super loom and Tesa tape. An the driver side is all plugged connected.

We also got the harness that runs along the drivers side frame rail. All wrapped and back to the rear of the Bronco. The connections still need to be finished at the rear and finish the loom wrapping. And the passenger side engine bay harness need a few mods. Before final connections and loom wrapping.

Still making good progress. Thanks for following along.

 

[SLOWnEASY]

I like the washer bottle mount, Did you fab it up or was it a purchase? I'm close to trying to fab one up since the only one I can find online is like $75. That's just a little too rich for me.

 

[gnsteam]

I like the washer bottle mount, Did you fab it up or was it a purchase? I'm close to trying to fab one up since the only one I can find online is like $75. That's just a little too rich for me.

I purchased it several years ago. Through Tom's Bronco Parts. I'm not sure if they still carry it. It was originally designed by a member here at CB.com with the user name of JSmall.

 

[gnsteam]

Some more wiring progress today. I finished up the drivers side engine wiring. Hooking up the washer tank and attaching the rear ward harness, to the back edge of the enter fender.

Next up was the passenger side. I made all the wire connections to the starter selinoid from the Explorer, harness and starter relay. Also the battery positive wire to the new Painless fuse box. Also plugged in the headlight, side marker and turn single lamps. Them the wires were loomed and wrapped in Tesa tape.

The harness, tucks up nicely behind the various electrical components. Mounted along the passenger side fender.

Next time in the shop. I will move on to the harness to the rear of the Bronco.

 

[fordguy]

Some more wiring progress today. I finished up the drivers side engine wiring. Hooking up the washer tank and attaching the rear ward harness, to the back edge of the enter fender.
View attachment 954341
View attachment 954342

Next up was the passenger side. I made all the wire connections to the starter selinoid from the Explorer, harness and starter relay. Also the battery positive wire to the new Painless fuse box. Also plugged in the headlight, side marker and turn single lamps. Them the wires were loomed and wrapped in Tesa tape.
View attachment 954343
View attachment 954344

The harness, tucks up nicely behind the various electrical components. Mounted along the passenger side fender.
View attachment 954345
View attachment 954346
View attachment 954347
View attachment 954348

Next time in the shop. I will move on to the harness to the rear of the Bronco.

Keep grinding

 

[Bruners4]

It is amazing how much time is involved in the planning of the harness functions that also include the incorporation of the additional Explorer harness. Placement and routing is critical for protection and ease of future maintenance before looming and taping. Things are looking great in the engine compartment. Can't wait to see it in person.