Project Long Horse

[jmhend]

I have signed up and paid for trip April 23rd-24th. I’m hoping to make that trip.


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Oh my. That’s going to be a serious motivator.


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[79INA69]

The spacers just moved the problem. I no longer hit the steering box, but the scrub steer radius goes right through the brush bar and right into the grille.

So back to where I was and back to trimming. But lots of hot rust and dust later, I have the #clarence now!! So I bump into the pitman arm a tiny bit. Big whoop.

Now I need to repeat on the passenger side then figure out coil mounts.


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Loving this build! After struggling with my build I wanted to stretch mine 6-10" where you did. The 39" Krawlers just look wiked on Bronco. I have been cutting metal away with 37s, knowing the step up to 39-40s is a whole pile of metal dust on the floor. I would love for my ride height to be where my full bump is, but the frame shape, flat floor and low roof line does not make that easy. I see why most have a 3" body lift now. I still have the 1". Anyway, most on here feel your pain. It is MAJOR work to gain 1" of uptravel when everything is that close! I don't think your steering rub will be an issue. You can set your steering stops out and its rubbing on a smooth surface. That said you can move the box back to F150 status having the arm facing forward which will tuck it out of the way of the tire and get the drag link forward....

 

[Hinmaton]

Axles and links painted, everything going back together for the final time. Pulled my shafts to take down their measurements. Cleaned up all the wiring mess from cutting up my inner fenders and finding a new home for the battery.
Anyone know off hand how much oil needed to fill a 609?

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[Hinmaton]

Loving this build! After struggling with my build I wanted to stretch mine 6-10" where you did. The 39" Krawlers just look wiked on Bronco. I have been cutting metal away with 37s, knowing the step up to 39-40s is a whole pile of metal dust on the floor. I would love for my ride height to be where my full bump is, but the frame shape, flat floor and low roof line does not make that easy. I see why most have a 3" body lift now. I still have the 1". Anyway, most on here feel your pain. It is MAJOR work to gain 1" of uptravel when everything is that close! I don't think your steering rub will be an issue. You can set your steering stops out and its rubbing on a smooth surface. That said you can move the box back to F150 status having the arm facing forward which will tuck it out of the way of the tire and get the drag link forward....

Yeah, the 3” body lift is a nice trick. It’s like getting a +3 to every inch you trim off your fenders. Plus it also allows you to tuck some other stuff up too, like your exhaust and your gas tank. It’s also nice when your working under there, you can get to things just a bit easier.
I know people are all over the lower center of gravity thing, and I tried to figure out a way to do it, but I decided that if I was going to have to run a 6” lift in order to clear 40’s, I’d rather have my frame and drivetrain 3” lower than my body. Do I stair at my giant stack of hockey pucks and hate how it looks, yeah I do, but it’s the right compromise for me.


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[Yeller]

Yeah, the 3” body lift is a nice trick. It’s like getting a +3 to every inch you trim off your fenders. Plus it also allows you to tuck some other stuff up too, like your exhaust and your gas tank. It’s also nice when your working under there, you can get to things just a bit easier.
I know people are all over the lower center of gravity thing, and I tried to figure out a way to do it, but I decided that if I was going to have to run a 6” lift in order to clear 40’s, I’d rather have my frame and drivetrain 3” lower than my body. Do I stair at my giant stack of hockey pucks and hate how it looks, yeah I do, but it’s the right compromise for me.


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Don't have this problem if there's no floor to start with

On oil for the front it needs to be high enough to reach the pinion bearings at rest, so if you fill to the normal fill at the plug it will be fine. unless your pinion is pointed up way high then it might need a little more but that is enough to keep everything happy. Same applies to a low pinion rear.

 

[79INA69]

Yeah, the 3” body lift is a nice trick. It’s like getting a +3 to every inch you trim off your fenders. Plus it also allows you to tuck some other stuff up too, like your exhaust and your gas tank. It’s also nice when your working under there, you can get to things just a bit easier.
I know people are all over the lower center of gravity thing, and I tried to figure out a way to do it, but I decided that if I was going to have to run a 6” lift in order to clear 40’s, I’d rather have my frame and drivetrain 3” lower than my body. Do I stair at my giant stack of hockey pucks and hate how it looks, yeah I do, but it’s the right compromise for me.


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The rear 4 link, extending the wheelbase rearward, exhaust, while keeping a rear seat and the rear gas tank is a real pain. The flat rear frame rails don't help either. I've seen a lot of very capable and stable climbing Broncos that are taller than most modern builds. Extending your wheel base and the properly set up front 3 link should make for a major improvement in climbing. Look forward to seeing it "finished"

 

[jmhend]

Axles and links painted, everything going back together for the final time. Pulled my shafts to take down their measurements. Cleaned up all the wiring mess from cutting up my inner fenders and finding a new home for the battery.
Anyone know off hand how much oil needed to fill a 609?

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I think I was at 5-6 quarts, but like Yeller mentioned.... Keep pumping until it comes out of the fill plug. WOW.... RED Paint looks so good in pictures, you better carry a can of that to coat it on the trails (I have seen you wheel)...

I heard that wiring was a LITTLE MUCH!!!!!

Looking good 2 weeks right?

 

[Hinmaton]

Don't have this problem if there's no floor to start with

On oil for the front it needs to be high enough to reach the pinion bearings at rest, so if you fill to the normal fill at the plug it will be fine. unless your pinion is pointed up way high then it might need a little more but that is enough to keep everything happy. Same applies to a low pinion rear.

No floors, like that-
Yeah, no major angles. I figured to the fill hole, but was trying to figure out how much to buy. I remember filling my large bearing 9” about 5-6 quarts, like Jason said, but that was with the Set20 bearings. Both of these are 609’s with seals at the pumpkin. I ended up going with the Seals-It ones on the rear. I’m hoping that 8 quarts will be enough for both? That older banjo style front seems awfully big though.


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[Hinmaton]

I think I was at 5-6 quarts, but like Yeller mentioned.... Keep pumping until it comes out of the fill plug. WOW.... RED Paint looks so good in pictures, you better carry a can of that to coat it on the trails (I have seen you wheel)...

I heard that wiring was a LITTLE MUCH!!!!!

Looking good 2 weeks right?

Yeah, the wiring was a full day. Ugh.

Two weeks… I think I can, I think I can.


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[Yeller]

8 quarts should get it.

Feel your pain….. I’m 2 days in on replacing the rear main housing gasket on the Jeep. Will finally finish tomorrow. Should have replaced it while it was on the bench and not in the truck lol. would have taken 30 minutes not 10 hours+.

 

[Hinmaton]

8 quarts should get it.

Feel your pain….. I’m 2 days in on replacing the rear main housing gasket on the Jeep. Will finally finish tomorrow. Should have replaced it while it was on the bench and not in the truck lol. would have taken 30 minutes not 10 hours+.

What model Jeep do you have again?


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[Yeller]

70’ Gladiator. I just swapped in a 6.0, one of those coulda, shoulda moments.

This prompted me to update my signature

 

[jmhend]

Yeah, the wiring was a full day. Ugh.

Two weeks… I think I can, I think I can.


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You can do it!!! I am pulling for you with 8 quarts. That will get you started for sure.


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[Hinmaton]

And the answer is: 4 quarts on the rear and 3.3 quarts on the front? I went with Lucas 85w-140 and it was just about the most aggravating thing I’ve done on this project. So thick, messy and slowwwwwwwwwwww.
But I got all the coils and links mounted, axles filled. Then I realized I had bought the wrong fittings to run the brake lines…


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[Hinmaton]

70’ Gladiator. I just swapped in a 6.0, one of those coulda, shoulda moments.

This prompted me to update my signature

I’ve always coveted a Honcho myself.
6.0 will be some fun.


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[Yeller]

I’ve always coveted a Honcho myself.
6.0 will be some fun.


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Thanks! Yeah those old trucks aren’t supposed to do burnouts

I keep 85-140 in a 5 gallon bucket with a pump in the shop, makes it almost mess free and easy. When we were running the U4 we ran 250wt, talk about a PITA, it would pump, barely, but we never lost a bearing or cooked a r&p.

 

[Hinmaton]

Thanks! Yeah those old trucks aren’t supposed to do burnouts

I keep 85-140 in a 5 gallon bucket with a pump in the shop, makes it almost mess free and easy. When we were running the U4 we ran 250wt, talk about a PITA, it would pump, barely, but we never lost a bearing or cooked a r&p.

I saw that the recommendation for 9” desert racing applications is 2-1/2 to 3 gallons of 250wt! That’s like cold honey and a lot of it.


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[Yeller]

I saw that the recommendation for 9” desert racing applications is 2-1/2 to 3 gallons of 250wt! That’s like cold honey and a lot of it.


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We found it worked great but temps stayed lower if we just did the factory fill. We also found the guys running full box trusses, top, back and bottom ran hotter. Our theory was the lower fill and exposed to moving air metal created more surface area to cool the oil. With it over full there was more of a full kettle holding heat kind of thing. That was our theory anyway. We knew of several teams running basic 75-90 with a pump and cooler. They felt the thinner oil used less HP and worth the complication of the pump and cooler. We felt it was just something to break, cause failure and add complication.

 

[DirtDonk]

For a regularly driven rig 75W/90 is perfectly adequate. And if using synthetic it pumps like water comparatively.
I chose it for its basic characteristics fitting my Bronco’s needs, but loved the difference between pumping it into the gearboxes versus standard 80 or 90 weight.
I think I’m using 85W/140 in my F350 that carries heavy loads, but I bet the lighter 75W/90 would work fine there too.
I don’t always need the extra cushion against shock loads or the extra protection from higher heat and working loads in either of my rigs.
But I think I went with the heavier lube in the big truck anyway. Just in case.

 

[Hinmaton]

The suspension is complete. Brakes plumbed, exhaust fabricated, Reds mounted. Now I’m back to bodywork, need to at least find something to attach the cage too. Two weeks to stretch goal.

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