Project Long Horse

[Hinmaton]

yes the closed piston has to to with the parking brake. The fronts should be 2-3/4" but could be 3" or 3-1/8, its really hard to tell the difference without measuring them, I've seen them all boxed incorrectly from the parts store.

That rear piston is huge compared to the Vette stuff, can remember for sure but 1-3/4" is what is in my head for the car.

I've been playing with going to a 2-1/4" bore in the rear to correct the displacement ratio, just haven't crawled down that hole, its not broken LOL

I will take measurements on the front. But if the front is as big or bigger than the rear then does that mean that all the calipers are too big for the master?


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[Yeller]

I will take measurements on the front. But if the front is as big or bigger than the rear then does that mean that all the calipers are too big for the master?


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Could be for drum/drum the master is probably 1” bore. I wouldn’t get to worried until you know how it behaves in motion. I’d be willing to bet it’s just a corvette style, copied by many manufacturers for its low clearance and high fluid capacity.

Remember the larger the bore the closer the ratio gets between the caliper and master cylinder. Going from 1” to 1-1/8” master takes 22% more force to make the same stopping force.

 

[DirtDonk]

That master from us should already be a one and an eighth diameter piston.
Usually more than enough for the style brake caliper. Normally…

 

[Hinmaton]

I read at length last night about how challenging it is to bleed the Eldorado style caliper due to the mechanism inside. I guess you need to take the caliper off and do a lot of rotating and tapping to dislodge the bubbles.


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[stupidboy]

I read at length last night about how challenging it is to bleed the Eldorado style caliper due to the mechanism inside. I guess you need to take the caliper off and do a lot of rotating and tapping to dislodge the bubbles.


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I had 2 of these, I hate those calipers!!!

 

[Hinmaton]

I had 2 of these, I hate those calipers!!!

Yeah, and I can see why. Didn’t realize they had such a poor reputation.


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[sprdv1]

Yeah, and I can see why. Didn’t realize they had such a poor reputation.


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a lesson learned is always good for the next project

 

[Hinmaton]

a lesson learned is always good for the next project

I like that.


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[Hinmaton]

[mention]DirtDonk [/mention] the measurements from top of axle to bottom of the frame are, 10.5” front and 11.5” rear.


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[Hinmaton]

I found two key pieces of information on Eldorado calipers
1: you have to adjust the piston position in relation to the e-brake arm throw first then bleed the brakes after (preferably before fluid is introduced, however the procedure is the same, then bleed the brakes after).
2: due to the ratcheting screw mechanism assembly within the piston, bleeding is quite tricky. Air gets trapped in and around the moving parts. To bleed, remove the calipers from their bracket and methodically twist and revolve the caliper while rapping on it with a mallet to jog loose the air bubbles. Bleed and repeat until you don’t get any bubbles, then do it 5 more times.

It took me at least an hour to do the two calipers. I used a gravity/vacuum hybrid method, that way I didn’t have to worry about the blocking the piston from pushing out.

It worked. I think there is still a bit of air in there, but I have at least 2/3 solid pedal.


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[Yeller]

Cool. Curious how well they work when finished.

 

[Hinmaton]

Cool. Curious how well they work when finished.

The brakes worked great actually, nice solid feel not too grabby. But the rear does lock up before the front.
That being said, it’s road manners are atrocious. Lots of rear input steer, lifting and diving, lurching sideways at gear shifts, very boat like. I have an anti-rock swaybar in the rear, maybe I need one in the front?
Coilovers are charged to 200psi. Do I need more pressure or do I need additional shocks?


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[Yeller]

Are the shocks full of oil? If they aren’t the handling will be terrible whether they are pressured or not. Is the valving known?

An adjustable pressure valve will help the locking up.

 

[cag33]

Curious to hear about your handling issues. I have a stretched one with Ori's in front and leafs in the rear. Mine will step out as if an exaggerated front axle going to the side on suspension compression.
It also has the anti rock on the front with the floaty feeling handling going down the road.

 

[rcmbronc]

When I first 4 linked the rear of my bronco with coil overs the handling was terrible at best. I had some rear roll stear that was scary also. I have put front and rear sway bars that helped alot. The front did the most help. The other best thing was to lower the truck at ride levels as low as I could go. Helped a ton.

 

[Hinmaton]

Are the shocks full of oil? If they aren’t the handling will be terrible whether they are pressured or not. Is the valving known?

An adjustable pressure valve will help the locking up.

They are full of oil. One may have a small air bubble, but I’m not thinking that’s the issue?


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[Yeller]

If they are full, it probably is not the issue. However do you know the valving in the shocks? I ask because if they were set up for something super light or as a coil carrier used with bypass shocks, it will be terrible. Going to coilovers can be a huge can of worms, spring rates and shock valving are super critical to proper handling. It will not feel at all like it did with coils and leafs, but it should be controlled.

 

[Hinmaton]

Curious to hear about your handling issues. I have a stretched one with Ori's in front and leafs in the rear. Mine will step out as if an exaggerated front axle going to the side on suspension compression.
It also has the anti rock on the front with the floaty feeling handling going down the road.

Anti rock just in the front or front and rear?


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[Hinmaton]

If they are full, it probably is not the issue. However do you know the valving in the shocks? I ask because if they were set up for something super light or as a coil carrier used with bypass shocks, it will be terrible. Going to coilovers can be a huge can of worms, spring rates and shock valving are super critical to proper handling. It will not feel at all like it did with coils and leafs, but it should be controlled.

I had Accutune build and tube these for my Bronco before I stretched it. Used scales and all that. When I had coils and leafs, I used these coilovers without coils as shocks and they were great.


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[Hinmaton]

When I first 4 linked the rear of my bronco with coil overs the handling was terrible at best. I had some rear roll stear that was scary also. I have put front and rear sway bars that helped alot. The front did the most help. The other best thing was to lower the truck at ride levels as low as I could go. Helped a ton.

Sway bars or anti rock bars? I’d love to get the height down, just not sure how to do it just yet. I planned on a 1”-3” lower ride height from before Coilovers, but ended up 1” taller.


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