Project Long Horse

[Hinmaton]

I finally got the new springs put in place. They are at zero preload and wow what a difference. Front is way low and the rear is jammed up on the exhaust. This little exercise exposed a bunch of problems that I didn’t catch.

I tore out the tail pipe and added about 1-1/2” of pre-load. The rear axle shafts are back in with new snap ring grooves.
I took it for a drive and wow does it ever feel better. Still likes to dive when shifting, but hopefully I can tame that with the anti-rock that I still haven’t unboxed yet. In front of the axle? Behind the axle? Anyone have any suggestions? The battery in my scales died, so I’m waiting until I have that before I set everything in stone and take as-builts on my suspension geometry.

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[Yeller]

Looks so much better!

For swaybar location I’ve done them all and it doesn’t seem to matter, I’m sure it does at some level. I’ve seen some pretty anal builders that I have looked up to do both as well, it comes down to packaging and what fits best.

Some of the dive is just supple suspension doing its thing. It’s being exploited by the manual. Recently drove a new Heep with a manual and it dove a lot if accelerated aggressively.

 

[jmhend]

Absolutely, looking good sir. Maybe we can see it in action next month

 

[Hinmaton]

Thanks guys!


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[Yeller]

so I know angles can be deceiving, especially in photos. How much taller is it than the FJ in the photo?

 

[79INA69]

Looks killer! What are your frame to axle measurements now with the new springs at ride height? What is the distance from the top of your tire to the body line just above the fender flare?

 

[Hinmaton]

so I know angles can be deceiving, especially in photos. How much taller is it than the FJ in the photo?

I don’t really know, but that FJ was fully stock.

Edit: It does look massive compared the the FJ though…
But when I got out of Costco, there was a mildly built Tundra that dwarfed my Bronco.
In the photo it appears that the rear is sitting much higher than the front, when I got it home it looked the opposite. If I pick up or push down either bumper, the truck tends to settle in the direction I moved it. There is about an inch or so variance in the ride height front or back based on where the weight shift settled. Is that normal?


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[Hinmaton]

Looks killer! What are your frame to axle measurements now with the new springs at ride height? What is the distance from the top of your tire to the body line just above the fender flare?

I just took this measurement.

I was at 51”

 

[sprdv1]

Looks so much better!

For swaybar location I’ve done them all and it doesn’t seem to matter, I’m sure it does at some level. I’ve seen some pretty anal builders that I have looked up to do both as well, it comes down to packaging and what fits best.

Some of the dive is just supple suspension doing its thing. It’s being exploited by the manual. Recently drove a new Heep with a manual and it dove a lot if accelerated aggressively.

he should make the trek to OCBR some time soon

 

[Hinmaton]

he should make the trek to OCBR some time soon

Hmmm, I might could do that.


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[omureebe]

so I know angles can be deceiving, especially in photos. How much taller is it than the FJ in the photo?

It looks like his Bronco ate a FJ for lunch....

 

[jmhend]

Hmmm, I might could do that.


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You have a trailer for 2? If not, shot gun?

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[79INA69]

I just took this measurement.

I was at 51”

Nice! Curious to know the bottom of the frame to top of axle? How much up travel is left? And top of the tire to the same body line?

 

[Hinmaton]

Nice! Curious to know the bottom of the frame to top of axle? How much up travel is left? And top of the tire to the same body line?

I measured:
7 3/4” front axle to frame w/ @4” of up travel.
8” rear axle to frame w/ @5” of up travel.

I also noticed this as I opened the garage:

I pulled up on that side of the bumper and then it settled here:

So there’s that-
How much variance in ride height do I have, you ask.

So- yeah. That’s normal right?

Hh


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[Yeller]

Bronco lean lol. Mine leans the same way…. Completely my fault….. front spring bucket is 1/2” higher on the drivers side….. I blame ford’s design, the tub isn’t symmetrical side to side and I did the tube work the same side to side. Didn’t catch it until it was painted, assembled and done. That 1/2” sure would have come in handy for the master cylinder lol, I could make the top of it more than 1/8” from the hood, there is now a dimple there when I did the build it had manual brakes so it was less of an issue.

Back on topic…. That’s pretty low. My tire to body line measurement is 1” lower front and rear with similar up travel. For 37’s mine is dumb low

 

[Hinmaton]

Bronco lean lol. Mine leans the same way…. Completely my fault….. front spring bucket is 1/2” higher on the drivers side….. I blame ford’s design, the tub isn’t symmetrical side to side and I did the tube work the same side to side. Didn’t catch it until it was painted, assembled and done. That 1/2” sure would have come in handy for the master cylinder lol, I could make the top of it more than 1/8” from the hood, there is now a dimple there when I did the build it had manual brakes so it was less of an issue.

Back on topic…. That’s pretty low. My tire to body line measurement is 1” lower front and rear with similar up travel. For 37’s mine is dumb low

Woah! That’s low!
Is that your master? And your shock hoop all notched?


So, wait. You’re at 44” with 37’s and similar up travel? My 39’s only put me 1” taller at that body line. So you’re 3-1/2” lower! Dang.
As far as lean- I can easily adjust the coilovers, but it doesn’t change the fact that I have 1-3/4” of height variance at the same corner depending on how the shocks settle. That’s what I was asking about, is it normal to have that much mush in the coilovers?

 

[Yeller]

Yes it is my master. That is the tube over the spring, that is the top of the bucket. The bucket adds plenty of structure to the tube. I don’t have room to run a straight booster/master, the valve cover and alternator are in the way.

Yes it’s normal to “take set” and have a lean. The spring rates are very low so it doesn’t take much to make a lean happen. There is also “sticktion” in the shocks seals so they take set and come to rest a little high or a little low. A sway bar helps but doesn’t cure it. It’s just a side effect of now riding like a Cadillac.

 

[Hinmaton]

Yes it is my master. That is the tube over the spring, that is the top of the bucket. The bucket adds plenty of structure to the tube. I don’t have room to run a straight booster/master, the valve cover and alternator are in the way.

Yes it’s normal to “take set” and have a lean. The spring rates are very low so it doesn’t take much to make a lean happen. There is also “sticktion” in the shocks seals so they take set and come to rest a little high or a little low. A sway bar helps but doesn’t cure it. It’s just a side effect of now riding like a Cadillac.

Double woah! That really is smacked right up at the hood!


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[Yeller]

Double woah! That really is smacked right up at the hood!


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Common issue when you need a 1-5/16” bore master to properly operate 1 ton discs, it takes up a lot of space… Motor is almost as close, it got raised 1” to clear the front diff. Built a custom frame to have the clearance for up travel. If it had a Windsor it would need a much taller hood to clear. My front visual motivation was Pony Express and Colt Stroppe racer. Let me know if your not enjoying the banter in your thread. Lol

Edit:

Being low was more than just visual, performance and ease of use were the real goals. Low center of gravity combined with suspension geometry increases performance. The side benefit is I ain’t getting any younger, it’s easy to get in and out of lol.

 

[Hinmaton]

Common issue when you need a 1-5/16” bore master to properly operate 1 ton discs, it takes up a lot of space… Motor is almost as close, it got raised 1” to clear the front diff. Built a custom frame to have the clearance for up travel. If it had a Windsor it would need a much taller hood to clear. My front visual motivation was Pony Express and Colt Stroppe racer. Let me know if your not enjoying the banter in your thread. Lol

Edit:

Being low was more than just visual, performance and ease of use were the real goals. Low center of gravity combined with suspension geometry increases performance. The side benefit is I ain’t getting any younger, it’s easy to get in and out of lol.

I hear ya on getting in an out of a too high vehicle is just not as fun as it once was-

So, I took Longhorse out for a 2hr round trip ride through the countryside on small to medium back roads.
It drove so much better than the initial ride on the wrong springs.
I also set the rear swaybar to a stiffer setting, which helped the body roll I think.
It stayed smooth up to about 65 and then it started beginning some shaking.
But 55-60 was nice and smooth, much better than the old suspension.
The only issue at all was on twisty roller coaster sections; it floats over the crest of a sharp rise and then when it settles it wants to dart into the other lane or into a ditch. It did great, but my arms sure were tired.
Seemed fine on pot holes or big cracks, the issue was more when the body unweighted.
I checked my caster and it’s -6.7*
My Ackerman is stock KP D60.
Ram assist, and the steering box is tight for an old Ford box.
The Reds were at 20psi, maybe that’s it?

Hh


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