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Project "BOB - Big Orange Bronco" Wheeling pics addded

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SC74

SC74

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hawk pride march 20-24 %)

Joe - I was hoping to make this, but it's not going to happen. Got a few personal / family things taking priority right now.
 
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SC74

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Time to bump this back to the top ;D. I've gotten a lot of work done on the bronco since my last posts. I'm on my mobile now and promise to add pictures later from my computer.

After rebuilding the c4 and going back with the d20 case, I still lacked some gear. The trans pulls hard but when is get hung up and I'm on a steep up hill I just needed more. I bought an Atlas 2 speed 4.3 from a bronco brother who originally bought it new and never installed it due to other reasons. It was a win win for both of us. I got it installed, new driveshafts made (running 1350 joints all the way around now), built a secondary cross member for it, and protected it with a 1/4" skid plate. Now I have the gear I wanted :D. Even with my hydroboost brakes it will want to crawl out from under me, but it really wakes up my 1800 stall and I can still get good wheel spin in low.

Next thing I noticed was that I had warped my frame brackets that my lower links mounted to. Even though they were 1/4" and boxed in, it was a universal bracket with four positions to mount the link. I had my link in the very top hole and furthest from any weld to the frame. That much leverage bent the bracket. After bending/beating it back into place I knew it was a weak spot and would bend again. Out came the plasma cutter and grinder. Now I have new mounts welded in and should solve that problem.

I've managed to warp the center in one of my H1 wheels so its way out of balance. The local wheel repair man tried his hardest to get it right, an its better but still warped. I'll live with this until I upgrade wheels and tires.
 
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SC74

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Pictures as promised...

I've got the Atlas clocked as flat as possible without notching the frame. I think I would have notched the frame and gone flatter if it had not been for the Cage long arm brackets in the way. If it had been just notching and boxing in - no problem... but notching, boxing, and then re-working both arm brackets.... I will deal with that later if I need to. It sits at the same height the stock D20 did originally.

Overall the Atlas was an easy install. The dowel in the stock adapter gave me some trouble but after welding a nut to it and letting my IR impact hammer on it she finally broke loose and came out. I'm not real impressed with the shifter configuration. I did order the heim upgrade linkages so they don't bind so easily, but the linkage design is less than desirable in my opinion.

You can also see the cross member that attaches to the rear output shaft. I bought the ring around the shaft off of Pirate and bent the tube to match. I hated to go under the frame like I did, but it's no lower than the skid and I had to snake around the exhaust (which I had already modified to make room for the Atlas).

The skid plate and the cross member used all existing bolts.

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Here is the 4 link bracket that warped... and it's replacement. The new one is a BTF pre-bent bracket. I've got a lot more weld surface a lot closer to the heim connection so this one shouldn't be going anywhere.



 
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And while I'm updating my thread why not throw a pic of Bronco Driver up too ;D

 
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Got an itch to bend some tube up this weekend. I naturally watch my drivers side knowing that if it fits my passenger side better fit. As a result, my driver side takes the beating. I don't think this will catch everything from the door back, but if it saves some dents and scratches I'm happy.

I ended up bracing it to the roll cage in two places and am going to add one more just inside the door frame to the door brace where the ORV sticker pass is. I had to trim more sheet metal than I wanted to get the braces in but at the end of the day it fits in there snug.







 
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I've been wanting to add something to my front bumper so I figured a small bull bar might be it. It's primed now and I'll paint it before welding it on.



 
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Before making a tunnel cover, I wanted to re-work my Atlas shifters. They came out of the left side of the tunnel and the front shifter was constantly rubbing my leg. I bent it and lengthened it so that the shifters are front and rear now instead of side by side (yes front is in the front too ;D).



 
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Bring it on!!! Keith has a project that has been on hold forever and we need to get back to work on it (plus give me a reason to shop for a two car hauler) :D.
 
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It was my first time using it but now I wish I had discovered it before. I sprayed the rear tubes with Duplicolor rattle can bed liner spray. It goes on nicely and looks good. I can't commit on the durability yet, but a friend of mine who recommended it says he has great luck with it.

The front bull bar tube will match the front bumper - Rustoleum "Hammered" black.

So happy to get these loose ends wrapped up.
 
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Figured I'd bump this back up....

Since my last post I went to OCBR and the Bronco Driver / Duff Fall Ride at Coal Creek (Oliver Springs, TN). It was great meeting so many faces from here at OCBR and I plan on returning again this year (28 hours total round trip tow time and worth every minute!).

My damage at OCBR was just a broken rear Dana 60 shaft (30 spline). I had a spare so no big deal. Thank goodness for my rear exo or the driver side back corner would have been crushed in too.

Went to Coal Creek in November and snapped a second rear shaft, after shattering my windshield and twisting my windshield frame. After some "custom" windshield frame tweaking I put new glass in. I've also bored the rear spindles and put in 35 spline Yukon axle shafts. While at it, I figured why not go ahead an eliminate the next weak spot - my 30 spline stub shafts in the front. Now I have all 35 spline Yukon shafts, front and rear, with drive flanges and Super Joints. ;D That frees up some space in the bed from carrying spare shafts!
 

sprdv1

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Great upgrades man.. Look forward to seein ya again in Sept.

I'd still suggest staying away from "impossible" lol Ask Gordon or Yeller :D
 
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Wow, 6 months since I've posted on this thread!!

My latest upgrade... new FUEL wheels - the 17" Anza beadlocks!!! These are NIIIICCCEEEE ;D (too nice for my rig!). I met Steve from US Mag wheels at the Super Celebration in TN and saw their display wheel... I was sold! There are some more pics on the Fuel website in the gallery.

Since my old Irok's were 16.5, I picked up some half tread Red Labels and WOW what a difference rubber can make.

Got a few more odds and ends to do and hoping to still make OCBR.



 

gearhead74

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Do you know how much suspension travel you have in the rear? Also did you have any problems with the 39.5"s hitting the front fenders? Thanks!
 
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Do you know how much suspension travel you have in the rear? Also did you have any problems with the 39.5"s hitting the front fenders? Thanks!

I have the Duff long travel 15" shocks, but they are mounted on the lower link instead of the axle so I do gain some more there. I think I have my limit strap catching them about 3/4" short of falling out. I'll measure tonight when I get home how much shock is exposed flat footed, but it has A LOT of travel. It's a coincidence how they got there - I had coilovers mounted through the fenders where the shocks are now and when I converted to coil springs I had to fill the gap where the coilovers had been. The shock worked perfectly ;D

No rubbing on the front fenders. Minimal rubbing on the rear tube work at full stuff where it ties back into the main cage frame.
 
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looks really good!

Sticky rubber is like cocaine, all it takes is one taste and your addicted:)

Thank you! They are like Velcro on the rocks compared to the Iroks!
 

NGABronco

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Wow, 6 months since I've posted on this thread!!

My latest upgrade... new FUEL wheels - the 17" Anza beadlocks!!! These are NIIIICCCEEEE ;D (too nice for my rig!).

You can spot a man with money!!!! He's the one driving to the top of the hill (with shiney wheels)!!!!
Looks good Robert!!!;D;D
 
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