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Project "BOB - Big Orange Bronco" Wheeling pics addded

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SC74

SC74

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Here are a few pics!

The WH brackets are made to prep lace the driver side explorer bracket. One bracket is for the top pulley and the other is for a Saginaw or p-pump. The two plates came with an assortment of washers and spacers. I ended up tacking the spacers to the brackets where the directions said to install them to make it much cleaner and save me the headache of losing one when I have to remove them and/or not remember where the heck they were. In my opinion, the kit could be much improved and cleaner by coming pre-tacked to save everyone the hassle.

On the pulley bracket, it says to use the factory spacers and washers and then stack another washer and a 7/8" spacer and a longer 10mm bolt through the pulley and a nut on the the backside of the plate bracket. First, My stock bolt was a shoulder bolt (see pic). The explorers must have come two different ways - this type shoulder bolt or a standard bolt with a plastic type insert to center the bolt on the ID of the pulley bearing. The second bolt in the pic is from a different idler on the explorer brackets but same exact set up in a smaller size. Ford replaces that top idler with a cheaper pulley (no shoulders to keep the belt on and this plastic insert style inner) and costs $44 (You can buy the pulley from any parts house but it doesn't come with that spacer or a bolt)!! I wasn't excited about leveraging a plastic spacer and then bolting it to a plate. My solution was to keep my original shouldered bolt. I went to Ace Hardware and bout a 5/16 ID 1" spacer (perfect for tapping to 10mm). I welded the spacer to the plate and then welded a washer to increase the surface area where it rides on the bearing (used a washer the same OD as the explorer bracket surface was).

It's the little things like this that take so long!!!
 

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And here is proof that she stands up on her own two front tires now!

I didn't say it could brake itself yet!!
 

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Between fighting for hood clearance and making sure I have good flow, I found the fitting to make both happen. Now that I know where it will be I can build the frame to mount the reservoir to (welded to the PS pump bracket so it's all one unit). 2 more hoses are ready for me to pickup tomorrow and I should be able to plumb this mess :cool:
 

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HA you are funny! I did take it on a trial tip down through my gulley/rock garden on the farm. It performed great and a major improvement over what I had.

Now I've got my knuckles off and plating them to help handle the extra stress. In the process, I'm replacing my driver side spindle since it's got some battle scars.
 
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It's a good thing I took Yeller's advise to inspect and plate my knuckles... This is what I found after cleaning the driver side. The crack goes all the way through.... But I V ground it out and welded it up. I was on borrowed time!
 

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And the inside...
 

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GRN_MEANIE

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I copied the TMR setup when I plated mine. I would keep those as spares and find another set tho.
 

Yeller

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I've fixed a bunch of them and have yet to have a failure, most were much worse than that. I usually work for guys that can break a steel ball in a sand box with a rubber hammer, myself included.....
 
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I bought the kit from rydelfab.com. His reviews on Pirate were good and they are pre-bent. I might try to finish burning it on today, but it's a good fit.
 
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Those knuckles are cast right? Ho well will the welds hold?

I think pre-heat is the key. I've got it tacked together on now with mig but plan on using a 7018 rod to burn them on for good.
 

Mountain Ram

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I think pre-heat is the key. I've got it tacked together on now with mig but plan on using a 7018 rod to burn them on for good.


I only have a mig and even though I have access to a stick welder at work, I have never welded with one. Is it possible to weld this with a 220V Mig?
 
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