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Radius arm bushings

joshua

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Am I missing something here? It’s been a long time since I pulled this apart, but I can’t think of anything else that goes in here.

These are the wild horses angled radius arm bushings. I easily tightened them down by hand and it feels like it ran out of thread…

Or do just need to stack some washers?

I did find this, but to original nuts where stripped. And it doesn’t say anything about running out thread.

https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threads/radius-arm-bushings-washers.327437/#post-3592562
 

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904Bronco

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So these are brand new bushings you just installed?

If so there could be some movement to even out the load on each bushing when you get it back on the road.
But you are right, that cotter pin as it sits now, will allow the castle nut to back off some without an additional (Washer) spacer.
 
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joshua

joshua

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So these are brand new bushings you just installed?

If so there could be some movement to even out the load on each bushing when you get it back on the road.
But you are right, that cotter pin as it sits now, will allow the castle nut to back off some without an additional (Washer) spacer.
Yes brand new
 

DirtDonk

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Brand new, but how long have you had them?
I don’t think shrinkage is an issue with polyurethane (or even most rubber for that matter), but I was just curious.
Do you still have the original extra thick cup washers that would’ve been on there from the factory? If so, use those and the washer you have, and see where that gets you.

Otherwise, perhaps locking nuts would get the job done as long as you are not running out of thread.
Even FORD used locking nuts (“C nuts”?) from the factory sometimes.
 

hsach

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Brand new, but how long have you had them?
I don’t think shrinkage is an issue with polyurethane (or even most rubber for that matter), but I was just curious.
Do you still have the original extra thick cup washers that would’ve been on there from the factory? If so, use those and the washer you have, and see where that gets you.

Otherwise, perhaps locking nuts would get the job done as long as you are not running out of thread.
Even FORD used locking nuts (“C nuts”?) from the factory sometimes.
I made this mistake when I put on T-Rex arms. I used the washers that came with the kit instead of the factory ones. Difference in thickness and original is cupped a little, I should have used the originals. My cotter pin sticks out similar to yours, so I am going to put the old ones back in after I clean and paint/powder coat them. I used non-degreed bushings, but I do have the Wildhorses 4x4 bushings that I will probably use next time.
 

Slowleak

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Looks like you just need the proper nut and washer. I found this morning from working on my ‘77, that the ‘76 and ‘77 did not have castle nuts and pins. The parts catalog confirms it. I have not taken the nut off yet to see if it is a locking nut.
 
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joshua

joshua

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DC
Brand new, but how long have you had them?
I don’t think shrinkage is an issue with polyurethane (or even most rubber for that matter), but I was just curious.
Do you still have the original extra thick cup washers that would’ve been on there from the factory? If so, use those and the washer you have, and see where that gets you.

Otherwise, perhaps locking nuts would get the job done as long as you are not running out of thread.
Even FORD used locking nuts (“C nuts”?) from the factory sometimes.
Ordered 8/24



And I will look for those washers..


My thought is to stack washers to move the nut back. The red lines in this master piece are washers.
 

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joshua

joshua

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Or washers here
 

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bigmuddy

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Been awhile but if you had the thicker bushing in front of the mount it would reduce the amount of room behind the mount. I think you need to swap the bushing around.

You want to the extra bushing thickness on the axle side for max effectiveness.
 
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joshua

joshua

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Been awhile but if you had the thicker bushing in front of the mount it would reduce the amount of room behind the mount. I think you need to swap the bushing around.

You want to the extra bushing thickness on the axle side for max effectiveness.
They are wild horses angled bushings, they were the same thickness
 
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joshua

joshua

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Any reason why this wouldn’t be fine? The extra washers that is.
 

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DirtDonk

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I’m not an engineer, but I feel like one thick washer is better than multiple washers that can move around on each other.
I don’t actually see how that can create conditions that might loosen the nut more than normal, but that was the first thing that popped into my head.
Spacing wise, it looks just fine. Dynamically though, I just don’t know.

I might even use some mild thread locker. I know that’s not normal practice for a castle nut, but it would make me feel better if it was mine.
And I would definitely be checking it every once in a while. At least initially, and after any four-wheeling. Make sure it’s not kinking the cotter pin.

Speaking of which, do they even make steel cotter pins anymore? They all seem to be aluminum and very soft.
 

Glass Pony

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Speaking of which, do they even make steel cotter pins anymore? They all seem to be aluminum and very soft.
I've never seen an aluminum cotter pin yet, but I haven't looked for any steel ones in a long time as I using up what I have stashed.
I do buy a few stainless-steel cotter pins every year for props on outboard engines. They will always be available.
 

DirtDonk

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Maybe I was just thinking they were aluminum, because they seemed overly soft. Unlike the pins of my youth.

Paul
 

DirtDonk

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To Joshua, did you ever determine for sure that the nut was bottoming out on the end of the threads, or not?

Paul
 
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