Ready to do all 4 ball joints. Any tips?

[Bustedbroc]

74 EB, all stock, no lift. Just has heavier front springs (dealer installed I believe, I replaced with same), to offset weight of the Koenig PTO winch/bumper. Front end shop says I need all 4 ball joints. Advice? Tips? Gotcha's? Thanks.

 

[Bustedbroc]

74 EB, all stock, no lift. Just has heavier front springs (dealer installed I believe, I replaced with same), to offset weight of the Koenig PTO winch/bumper. Front end shop says I need all 4 ball joints. Advice? Tips? Gotcha's? Thanks.

FYI, I found this post from DD which covers quite a bit:
Yep and yep. Wheel bearing adjustment. I'll go through it in a minute.
For the joints, I still prefer greasable myself. As long as the fitting is in the cap.
Joints with the Zerk fittings in the cross are considered weaker, so if you have that type always make sure to install them with the fitting hole in the "compression direction" to help with a longer life. Of course, since there is also a reverse on these rigs, they're not always going to be in compression.
A fitting in the cap should not weaken anything. However, you may have to keep the Zerk fitting handy and use a small cap to seal it off. The caps have more clearance in this tight area, and you simply replace the cap with a greasable fitting when you're doing maintenance. Then put the cap back on for normal running.
Going the non-greasable route gets rid of all these issues, but I still like to push fresh grease in a perfectly good u-joint, rather than replacing the whole thing potentially more often.
Wheel bearing adjustment procedure needs the little 4-prong sockets like you can get just about anywhere (http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Wheel_Bearing_Nut_Socket)
Per the book...
Bearing Preload Adjustment:

1. Torque the inner adjusting nut (the one with the little pin thingy pointed outward) to 50 ft lbs while turning the wheel/hub/brake assembly.
2. Back this nut off 1/4 turn, or 90°
(this results in a very loose preload, but this is ok for now)
3. Install locking ring (with all the holes) with it's tang in the groove of the spindle.
(the holes are offset, so if one of them does not line up with the pin on the inner nut the first time, pull the washer, reverse it and attempt to reinstall. If it still does not quite line up with the pin, reach in with a finger and tighten the nut just a hair until they do line up. You'll feel it.)
4. Torque the outer clamping nut to 75 to 105 lbs.
This sets everything up and literally stretches the metal bits to tighten up that previously loose clearance. You can measure the change with a dial indicator. In fact, it's so extreme, you can easily feel the before-and-after differences with an untrained hand.
Never hurts to double check the exact preload with a dial indicator, but once you've done it a few times you can be pretty confident that if you did it right and all the parts were to spec, your bearing preload will be just right.
You're done with the adjustment. All is left is the locking hub (lockout) installation.
Ball-joint Preload Adjustment:
1. Install the inner adjusting sleeve into the steering yoke.
2. Install the knuckle with new ball joints into both sockets.
3. With upward force applied to keep the stud from spinning in the tapered hole (I use a floor jack), tighten the lower ball joint nut to 70-90 lbs.
4. With the proper spanner wrench (http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Ball_Joint_Spanner_Tool) tighten the adjusting sleeve/collar to 40 lbs.
5. Install the upper nut and torque to 100 lbs.
6. With a pull-scale (like a fish scale or similar) attached to the steering arm portion of the knuckle (where the tie-rod end would normally attach) measure the force it takes to rotate the knuckle on the joints. Force should not exceed 26 lbs. It probably should not be less than about 10 either, so make sure it's not too loose.
And here's the modern day dilemma a lot of us run into now. Due to either wear and tear, poorly made replacement parts, installation errors, or all of the above, sometimes that old 40 lb rating on the ball joint sleeves just doesn't work anymore. So once they're installed and torqued, it would hurt to also test the knuckle for any excessive play in the newly installed assembly. Just wiggle it back and forth, with great vigor, and see if you find anything unusual. Now's the time to check it out if there is anything untoward.
If all is well, you're good to go!
Clear as mud now?;D
Paul

 

[Bustedbroc]

Also, on the D44 axle, do I have to drain the gear oil before I pull the axles? Will it run out past the seals? I have watched some youtube video's and no one mentions it. I would like to avoid if possible since I just changed it.

 

[1969]

Also, on the D44 axle, do I have to drain the gear oil before I pull the axles? Will it run out past the seals? I have watched some youtube video's and no one mentions it. I would like to avoid if possible since I just changed it.

A little might run out, I’ve always just stuffed some rags in the axle tubes.

 

[Timmy390]

Spend the extra and use Brand Name ball joints. Some of the "house" brands have fitment issues. I went with NAPA blue tops which at the time were made by raybestos (might still be) and they installed fine and have server me well for many years now.

Tim

 

[Madgyver]

simple task. Taz just replaced all his ball joints on FireBronco last Sunday afternoon. Hubs removed, brakes caliper hung, spindle removed, axle pulled, knuckle knocked off, ball joint pressed off and replaced. reverse procedure to install.

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, you change the ball joints without removing the axles, but why not just pop the cover and change the rear end fluid, unless you know it is fresh. Good luck

 

[Steve83]

Front end shop says I need all 4 ball joints. Advice? Tips? Gotcha's? Thanks.

Did you check the BJs? It's not hard - just lift a wheel off the ground & check if it tilts/clunks/wobbles when you pull the bottom & push the top of the tire. If so, try to watch or feel the BJs while an assistant rocks the tire for you. Loose wheel bearings will also allow wobble/clunk, but that will be the same when rocking it front-to-back.

It's quicker & easier to remove & install the BJs with a short chunk of pipe, a hammer, & a torch than to use a BJ press (especially the common cheapo presses commonly rented by parts stores).

.

Ford or Spicer BJs are worth a lot more than any aftermarket brand, so shop for them. You can find them ridiculously expensive, but you can probably also find them at reasonable prices if you shop around for a while.

If you want to be sure no oil leaks out, do 1 side at a time. Tilting the axle up will make the oil run away from that seal.

Most of what you quoted is NOT about the BJs, but there IS a procedure for installing the knuckle to the axle tube:
1) Assemble knuckle to axle assembly. Install camber adjuster on the stud of the front suspension upper ball joint.
2) Install nut on bottom BJ finger-tight. Install and tighten nut on top BJ finger-tight. Tighten bottom nut to 47 N-m (35 ft-lb).
3) Tighten top nut to 136 N-m (100 ft-lb), then advance nut until castellation aligns with cotter pin hole. Install cotter pin. NOTE: Do not loosen top nut to install cotter pin.
4) Retighten bottom nut to 150 N-m (111 ft-lb).

...why not just pop the cover and change the rear end fluid...

Probably because 1) there are no ball joints on the rear end, and 2) he already said the front end oil is new.

 

[FordBronc]

I did mine a little bit ago, IMO easier to pull all parts and pieces off the steering knuckles and then pull the axle shafts. NO oil leaked out of mine. If worried just stuff a RED shop rag in the ends.

X2 on follow the above/WH/ WH u-tube directions. Use a torque wrench. Get the caster camber alignment bushing 4 tooth tool.

Yes get Spicer or Moog ball joints. I used Mevotech TTX green seals. https://www.mevotech.com/parts-results/?date=1974&make=Ford&model=Bronco&submodel=Base&drivetype=All

 

[Bustedbroc]

WHAT THE HELL! HELP! Pulled hubs, brought them down to a good local shop where I had him press out the old BJ's and press in new MOOG K8195T lowers and K8194T uppers. Followed MOOG instructions for torquing. NOTE, the MOOG lower ball joints come with snap rings that go on the very bottom of the BJ's once pressed in. The ball joint does no stick thru the lower BJ hub hole to use them and sits flush with the bottom of the hub. The original was the same way. Torqued the lower BJ to 70lbs, then onto the preload which also calls for 70 lbs. I never got close to 70lbs before the lower ball joint was being pulled out of the lower hub. Seems to me you really need that snap ring. FYI, the hub was thoroughly cleaned before any BJ's were pressed in. the lower BJ was fully seated. I am going to try the other side and see if I can get the preload up to 40lbs as shown above. IDEAS?

 

[EPB72]

Are you fallowing the directions or did you mistype..??? NOWhere does it say to preload to 70 FTLBs......lower ball joint tighten to 70......tighten preload sleeve to 40FT LBS { i do 35 but thats me,, } install top nut and torque to100...,,,, I'd also be curious of the fit of the lower ball joint is in the Knuckle . to loose could be an indicator the knuckle has issues,, the Cir clips aren't necessary

 

[Bustedbroc]

Are you fallowing the directions or did you mistype..??? NOWhere does it say to preload to 70 FTLBs......lower ball joint tighten to 70......tighten preload sleeve to 40FT LBS { i do 35 but thats me,, } install top nut and torque to100...,,,, I'd also be curious of the fit of the lower ball joint is in the Knuckle . to loose could be an indicator the knuckle has issues,, the Cir clips aren't necessary

Sorry, FORGOT to NOTE in my previous post that the 70lb preload spec was the instructions that came with the MOOG ball joints. I followed them since they should know, Right? WRONG! Put the right side in following the forum post instructions. Pressed the left lower ball joint back into the hub using my vise and a socket. Re-installed all. All is well. Thanks. I have a bone to pick with MOOG.

 

[Bustedbroc]

Sorry, FORGOT to NOTE in my previous post that the 70lb preload spec was the instructions that came with the MOOG ball joints. I followed them since they should know, Right? WRONG! Put the right side in following the forum post instructions. Pressed the left lower ball joint back into the hub using my vise and a socket. Re-installed all. All is well. Thanks. I have a bone to pick with MOOG.

FYI, see attached MOOG instructions:

More Information for MOOG K8195T

 

[Steve83]

The ball joint does no stick thru the lower BJ hub hole...

Parts can have several applications, with varying installation methods. But using better parts would probably have eliminated this.

I never got close to 70lbs before the lower ball joint was being pulled out of the lower hub. Seems to me you really need that snap ring.

A snap ring is not there to withstand that kind of force. 70 lb-ft of torque on those threads is probably a few hundred pounds of tension on the shaft. Before it gets up to any substantial torque, the taper should already be mated against the bore in the casting. Make SURE the upper BJ is free to move as far as necessary so the lower can seat properly. The lower is the one that takes all the weight of the truck - the upper is just to hold the steering knuckle at the proper angle.

 

[Bustedbroc]

So MOOG is no good? I understand different applications, the ball joint was for a D44 diff which was used in many trucks. Problem was that at 70lbs (as per MOOG), the preload "screw" once fully seated onto the top ball joint kept screwing in and started pushing the hub off the already bolted it lower BJ. Either way I am learning my lessons as I go. FM

 

[DirtDonk]

Says the instructions were revised in ‘91. I wonder how many thousands of people they’ve messed up with that.
And, as usual, the company is probably too busy and too understaffed with people that make a difference, to make a correction.
Plenty of staff that speak multiple languages so they can communicate with the manufacturing facilities overseas, but nobody to proofread documents.

 

[Steve83]

I thought you were tightening the LOWER nut... If it's the UPPER that's pushing the knuckle off, remove the nut & camber cam, and clean the bore so the cam can slide down. It should ALSO be seated against the taper before the nut achieves any substantial torque. Use a sturdy socket as a drift to tap the cam down in the bore until it meets the BJ shaft taper, before putting the nut on.

 

[DirtDonk]

And with all the ones I've tried in the last ten years or so, I have not been able to get anywhere near the specified 40lbs on the upper sleeve. By the time you get to 20-ish, it's already poking through the bottom of the yoke and at risk of threading all the way out!
So I get it to a "reasonable" torque (usually in the 20-range) and stop when there are two or three threads sticking out the bottom.

As said, make sure the contact with the tapered stud is good, and that the end result (the pull torque of the fully assembled knuckle) is per spec.

Paul

 

[Bustedbroc]

I thought you were tightening the LOWER nut... If it's the UPPER that's pushing the knuckle off, remove the nut & camber cam, and clean the bore so the cam can slide down. It should ALSO be seated against the taper before the nut achieves any substantial torque. Use a sturdy socket as a drift to tap the cam down in the bore until it meets the BJ shaft taper, before putting the nut on.

Correct me if I am wrong, but there is no "camber" adjustment cam on a stock ball joint.

 

[DirtDonk]

Correct. Those are added through the aftermarket.
You can probably buy ball joints somewhere that have the eccentric sleeves included, but I haven’t seen them myself.
Otherwise, they are all standard, centered sleeves.