Replacing lower quarter panels

[JAFO]

Well, I'm back on my 1973 early Bronco project after a few years away. The project has been in a holding pattern a couple of years while we moved and I had to build a new workshop. And I think I needed a break.

Initially I had planned to just fix the rust spots on the lower quarters, but since I had already replaced so many other panel sections I figured why cut corners now, so opted for new lower panels.

I used cutting discs and grinder, removing both lower panels. I have one pic below of a test fit of the new driver's side. I'm waiting on UPS for the passenger side panel. Bought the panel from Bronco Graveyard and their claim of it being stamped from new tooling is on the money. This panel really is OEM quality. Will be a very good fit.

This first pic if just after moving my Bronco over to the new workshop last year. The remaining pics are from this past weekend.

 

[g8rb8t]

Nice work! Man I need to learn to weld and be able to do stuff like this %)

 

[englewoodcowboy]

Nice work. Those Dynacorn panels fit awesome. I used them on my 73 and I could not be happier from floors, to quarters to door skins... really good stuff even if they are stamped in Taiwan.

 

[Felipe]

All looks good, I just don't like the way the aftermarket quarter panels look at the back where they attach to the tail light housing. It slopes down toward the tire instead of staying straight. The ones i put on do the same thing and it's driving me crazy. I really don't want to cut it but am considering it to eliminate the look it has now. Either that or try to straighten it out. other than that yeah the panels fit pretty good. Maybe I'm just to picky.

 

[BigBlueBronco71]

Thanks for sharing! I plan on replacing lowers sometime soon too, good to hear the ones from bronco graveyard are a good fit, anyone know if the ones from wild horses are made by the same company?
Did you just grind down all the spot welds and the quarter just dropped right off?
Keep us posted on how you weld them on

 

[JAFO]

Thanks for the replies. I took a 4 1/2" cutoff wheel and cut the panel almost right at the spot weld location along the top. Cutting just below the seam. I went through about ten 4 1/2" discs per side. Then down each side I just stuck the 1/16" cutoff wheel on my 7" grinder right in the crack, but trying to keep the wheel as close to the quarter panel as I could. Like trying to cut right into the panels edge, so as to not touch the tail light housing. That worked (4 discs later) and I was able to grind through the spot welds and could dig out what was left of the old panel edge. More grinding with the thin wheel got the taillight housing edge cleaned up. The quarters were not as easy as say doing the door skins. The door skins you just grind all the way around the three edges of the door and the old skin basically drops away. But the quarters took some work. After the panel was off, I took a thick grinding wheel and ground off the top piece of the old panel edge. Just kept grinding and you could see the edge feather away from the upper panel edge. Every once in a while I would be able to zero in on a spot weld and when I could do that a long section of the old panel edge would finally pop away from the top panel. I spent several hours to get both panels off and everything cleaned up for the new panel. I had Monday and Tuesday off from work, so did more prep. I am spraying bed liner coating all inside that area, also on the inside of the new panel. Hoping that will make things last longer. It's all ready for the new panel now.

I think I am going to need to trim some of the top edge away from the new panel. The test fit shows that the edge is currently keeping the panel from lining up even with the tail light housing at the top of the panel. These aftermarket panels always need some tweaking, though this new panel I recently bought is tons better than panels I bought back in 2009.

I am not exactly sure how I am going to weld the top of the new panel. I think first I will do my typical screw the panel in place with self tapping screws. Lets me get one last test fit before welding. I have a very long extension for the 5/16" drill chuck and hope I can get my drill in behind the panel and gets some screws along the top on the inside. Then if fitment is good, I will start removing screws and use my wirefeed welder to weld in the screw holes. Maybe try welding from the top, since I can see the top from inside the bed. In theory it all sounds OK. I think doing the job is going to be a pita. But I think my options are limited, since everything else is all welded in place. Hind sight, I should have replaced the quarters when I was doing the wheel wells. But at that time I had planned to just fix the rust spots. But now that almost 100% of the truck is new panels, having some patched rust spots just didn't make sense. Oh well, it's where I'm at and I'll deal with it.

 

[JAFO]

Oh, all those dark streaks along the seams are from rust converter I had soaked that down into all the seams on any existing seams. The truck was to sit for a long while and I was hoping to come back to it and it not be worse than I left it. That seemed to work out well. The rust converter from Eastwood seems to do a good job.

 

[Chief Master Sergeant]

When I did mine I drilled holes from the bottom and welded through those holes to secure the top piece. Make sense. You just weld from inside the tub. Someone recommended it and it was pretty easy. Very easy to grind down the welds too.

 

[JAFO]

Thanks. That was my thought process as well. I am thinking I will pre-drill the quarter panel upper lip, then those holes can act as a guide as I drill up through the upper panel. Maybe a drill bit extension might make things easier yet. A reason for a new tool (like I need a reason).

 

[sprdv1]

Looks great man.. I"m sure it took some time, but well worth the effort

 

[JAFO]

Thanks. Been working on it too long, but I am not giving up. Been a real learning experience over the years. I've done all the work. I totally rebuilt the rear, put on a disc brake conversion up front, I added power steering. Rebuilding a 302 engine. Replaced all the metal and rubber brake lines. New brake booster and master. Plus, back when I bought the truck I didn't realize just how bad it was rusted (someone had bondo'ed over rust and I was too much a novice to realize). More I dug in to the body, the more stuff needed to be replaced. Whatever you see in the pics that is blue is original and not much else regarding the sheet metal. But I decided back then I would go for it and get it back to as close to 100% as I could. I ran out of steam a couple years ago and it sat. But, hey, it didn't cost me anything other than space to let it sit. But now I am back with determination to get the truck finished.

 

[gmurrell]

Nice work! Man I need to learn to weld and be able to do stuff like this %)

my thoughts exactly! last time i welded as with a stick and no clue...now i dont have a welder and still no clue

 

[JAFO]

I'm getting to be an old fart, and been welding for more than twenty five years. But that said, what you need to do is either get with some old fart that can share the knowledge or take a welding course at a technical center. It is very satisfying to repair your own stuff. Or make your own stuff. I reload and have some Dillon reloaders. I built my own steady rest for the reloader rather than purchase theirs. I used some scrap metal sheet, my plasma cutter and wirefeed welder. Turned out excellent and if you can do enough projects like that the equipment pays for itself over time. I can't count how many things I have repaired with my tools and saved myself a ton of money. And every once in a while you weld up some kind of garden art for the wife's garden and that keeps everyone happy.

I recommend starting with a wirefeed welder. Pay the extra for the shielding gas setup. You will get excellent welds and they are very easy to use. Then just practice with heat and wire feed settings for various metals. And don't be afraid to roll up your sleeves and dig in. You are going to screw stuff up, learn, keep at it and have success.

 

[JAFO]

Got both lower quarters fitted today. Used self tapping screws to get it held in place. With the wheel off and using a 12" chuck extension it is relatively easy to screw the screws up through the panel lip and secure it to the upper quarter.

My daily driver. The Bronco is tucked in the back.

 

[BigBlueBronco71]

awesome, did you screw it into the door post and taillight housing as well? Sweet FJ

 

[JAFO]

Yes, I used the 12" chuck extension to screw through the taillight housing, but also used the wirefeed welder to tack through the taillight housing opening as well. Tacked the top of the lower quarter first, then worked down, lining up the quarter and putting in a screw, trying to keep the curve aligned all the way down. Then some screws in the door post. I will weld once I am totally sure I like how things are lined up.

I cut out the rockers and installed new ones. Some years back I had purchased the aftermarket rockers, but they weren't as nice as the ones sold by Jeffs Bronco Graveyard now. So, I sprung for the new OEM rockers, cut out the ones I previously installed and have these new ones set in place with a couple of screws. Tomorrow I'll see if I can get the rockers lined up good, then start doing some spot welding and wirefeed welding as required.

Thanks regarding the FJ40. I really like that ride.

 

[JAFO]

View looking up under the quarter with the screws holding it in place (until I can get around to welding).

 

[mafconc]

Lower quater panel

Thanks for the info. I am prepping for this on a 66. Got D.S. qp, tail light housing, wheel tub, gas fill cover & bed cor. from TBP. QP looks thin like 20ga. but happy w/parts until fitment. I used a flux core wire welder on my 71 years ago for d-posts etc. and it worked ok for some tacks, stich, & plug welds.

 

[rastiss]

When I did mine, once the old one was off, I sandblasted the top lip on the upper quarter. Instead of welding, I used 3M 08115 panel adhesive to secure the top instead of welding. Only welded the verticals at the taillight extension and door jamb. Doing it this way there is no chance of warpage from welding and very little chance of rust ever coming out at the seam. Came out very nice.

 

[JAFO]

rastiss, interesting. I might think about doing that, though I just spent some effort screwing all those screws into place. And I did tack weld at the taillight housing. I guess I might just push ahead with the welding. I treated the upper panel lip with rust converter and I don't think rust will show back up in my lifetime. But thanks for that information. Will keep it in mind for the next project.