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Rewire
- Thread starter Rmsmann27
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 47,691
I don’t think figuring out where a fuse goes would indicate you made an actual mistake by going with one manufacturer over another. Just a slight hiccup to slow you down. Like most other Wiring jobs! 
Was that you asking the same thing last night? Did you see my answer to that one by any chance?
Centech must have made a recent change to a fuse, rather than the fusible link they’ve been using for many years now.
If that’s the case then a maxi-fuse should be used in line with the large red wire that connects to the starter relay on the fender. It’s probably to protect the main circuit.
What is the rating on the fuse that’s included? Something between 30a and 60a perhaps?
Was that you asking the same thing last night? Did you see my answer to that one by any chance?
Centech must have made a recent change to a fuse, rather than the fusible link they’ve been using for many years now.
If that’s the case then a maxi-fuse should be used in line with the large red wire that connects to the starter relay on the fender. It’s probably to protect the main circuit.
What is the rating on the fuse that’s included? Something between 30a and 60a perhaps?
OP
OP
Rmsmann27
New Member
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2022
- Messages
- 3
No, I didn't see your post. I am a new member today. There was no fuse included and the wiring diagram does not show it included.I don’t think figuring out where a fuse goes would indicate you made an actual mistake by going with one manufacturer over another. Just a slight hiccup to slow you down. Like most other Wiring jobs!
Was that you asking the same thing last night? Did you see my answer to that one by any chance?
Centech must have made a recent change to a fuse, rather than the fusible link they’ve been using for many years now.
If that’s the case then a maxi-fuse should be used in line with the large red wire that connects to the starter relay on the fender. It’s probably to protect the main circuit.
What is the rating on the fuse that’s included? Something between 30a and 60a perhaps?
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 47,691
Welcome to classic then! I usually catch that, but from my phone can't see anyone's join date. Or at least I have not figured it out yet.
Just realized that my reply was to the very same question by a member of another forum! Interesting and it sounds like Centech recently got away from their original fusible-link protection and is going with the more popular (and easy to fix!) Maxi-Fuse protection.
Before I forget, for this protection you can get away with as little as 40 or 45 amp rated fuses, but you would not be overkilling it if you went straight to 60a instead. Keep a few spares along with your other mini-fuses for the main panel (I like "blow-n-blow" types with the indicator) in your glovebox and you're good for the duration. Because this is the main charging circuit as well as the main power to the cabin and the rest of the truck when the engine is not running, you can go up to the limit of your alternator. So if you have a 75a alternator for example, you would go with maybe an 80a fuse if they make them that large.
Painless used to include a 60a with theirs, but I believe went to a 70 or 75 amp later. They were also talking about changing the main fuse entirely, to a Midi-Fuse and holder instead of the more compact Maxi. I like them both.
If you are updating to an alternator of over 95a rating though, you can go back to a lower rated fuse to protect the main circuit and leave some headroom because you're not going to be using this wire to charge the battery anymore. With something like a 130a Ford 3G alternator upgrade, you'd be charging the battery directly, eliminating the Yellow alternator wire and using the Red wire to power only for powering the accessories.
I'll have to get ahold of some of the current instructions to see what they say. Maybe they did not even update them yet and just let the installer deal with it.
But I would have to say that my previous comment about it being for protecting the main power circuit (10ga Red wire) that attaches to the starter relay/solenoid on the fender still holds until someone else says differently.
Just cut the Red wire in such a way that it leaves you with a short section that you would use to connect between the battery side of the starter relay and the one side of the Maxi-Fuse, then the other side of the fuse gets the rest of the Red wire.
Clear as mud yet?
Paul
Just realized that my reply was to the very same question by a member of another forum! Interesting and it sounds like Centech recently got away from their original fusible-link protection and is going with the more popular (and easy to fix!) Maxi-Fuse protection.
Before I forget, for this protection you can get away with as little as 40 or 45 amp rated fuses, but you would not be overkilling it if you went straight to 60a instead. Keep a few spares along with your other mini-fuses for the main panel (I like "blow-n-blow" types with the indicator) in your glovebox and you're good for the duration. Because this is the main charging circuit as well as the main power to the cabin and the rest of the truck when the engine is not running, you can go up to the limit of your alternator. So if you have a 75a alternator for example, you would go with maybe an 80a fuse if they make them that large.
Painless used to include a 60a with theirs, but I believe went to a 70 or 75 amp later. They were also talking about changing the main fuse entirely, to a Midi-Fuse and holder instead of the more compact Maxi. I like them both.
If you are updating to an alternator of over 95a rating though, you can go back to a lower rated fuse to protect the main circuit and leave some headroom because you're not going to be using this wire to charge the battery anymore. With something like a 130a Ford 3G alternator upgrade, you'd be charging the battery directly, eliminating the Yellow alternator wire and using the Red wire to power only for powering the accessories.
I'll have to get ahold of some of the current instructions to see what they say. Maybe they did not even update them yet and just let the installer deal with it.
But I would have to say that my previous comment about it being for protecting the main power circuit (10ga Red wire) that attaches to the starter relay/solenoid on the fender still holds until someone else says differently.
Just cut the Red wire in such a way that it leaves you with a short section that you would use to connect between the battery side of the starter relay and the one side of the Maxi-Fuse, then the other side of the fuse gets the rest of the Red wire.
Clear as mud yet?
Paul
