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Rough idle, need help

jperry1290

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2010
Messages
920
The prior owner installed a crate 302 in my EB, unk year of engine. After getting damaged it sat in the paint shop for a year. Thing ran decent when I bought it, but the dist cap cracked so I up graded to a petronix dist and coil. Runs really rough like it has a big cam. When you romp on the gas you can feel a hesitation. My friends dad said it sounds like a missing cylinder. I checked all wires with a timing light and the wires seem to be good. Where do I go from here. Firing order has been verified.
 

TWOSTICKMEDIC

New Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2011
Messages
28
I had a similar issue, It ended up being a timing issue. 1/8" turn on distrubitor fixed it for me. Good luck!
 

B RON CO

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 29, 2016
Messages
2,484
Loc.
Statesville, NC
Hi, one thing to try is remove the spark plug wires, one at a time from the running engine. If the engine slows down put it back on. If there is no change in the way it runs that cylinder is missing or the wire was on the wrong plug. Good luck
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,796
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
The distributor caps on the old point style distributors don't hold onto the wires very securely. Check to make sure they are all snapped in good.
 
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jperry1290

jperry1290

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2010
Messages
920
Firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 & all wires are routed correct. Timing was initially set to 10° btdc
 

bronconut73

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
9,919
Watch it idle in the dark. You may see spark jumping out of the boot and over to an exhaust manifold or header instead of going to the plug.
 

SHX669

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 9, 2009
Messages
1,997
Do you have factory wiring with the resistor wiring in the run circuit ? what petronix coil do you have ? Is it "internally resisted" ? - if so you might be running too low of voltage to the coil.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
51,618
All of the above, plus add checking for vacuum leaks.
Low voltage can really mess with an Ignitor in some cases.
Vacuum leaks are always on the top of my "rough idle" list.

But how did you verify that firing order? I don't mean checking the wires, but checking the actual firing order of the cylinders based on the cam. You say the engine is unknown, so is the cam. Did you verify the first three cylinders with a finger over the spark plug hole?

Just wanted to make sure.

Paul
 

gr8scott

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 1, 2011
Messages
1,890
Was it previously running points? If so, try a jumper wire from BAT+ to coil+ and see if it runs better.
 
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jperry1290

jperry1290

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2010
Messages
920
Hooked up vac gauge and get about 3 at idle. I replaced the carb gasket and the thing would no longer keep idle or would just stumble and die unless I kept hitting the gas. I can only get the engine to keep idle at 20° advanced, still only getting about 3 at idle.
 

bronconut73

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
9,919
Just remember there are two sbf firing orders.

302 and 5.0/351W

Cams are interchangeable.
 
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jperry1290

jperry1290

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2010
Messages
920
I tried the other firing order just to check and it would only backfire through the carb not start. Every vacuum cheat sheet I look at days 5 pounds of vac indicates a vac leak or blocked exhaust. It has brand new magnaflow exhaust on it. Is it possible that the dist is off by tooth? I plan on checking the plugs next weekend and restabbing the dist
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
51,618
Timing is timing, so even if your distributor was off a tooth, your timing light is supposedly still telling you what the timing is. So a 20 degree advance is still a 20 degree advance no matter what.

What vacuum port are you reading off of? Ported or full? Has to be full or you won't get much of a reading until your throttle blades come off of idle.
Your engine shouldn't even run at 3" of vacuum. Well, it might run but just barely. You'd definitely be seeing some strange backfire issues and rough idle and bouncing needles and all the usual suspects I would suspect.
Check your vacuum source first.

But an engine that has been sitting for extended periods can develop piston ring issues. Only extended driving will determine if that's going to fix itself, or if a new ring-job is in your future. Luckily they fix themselves with driving more often than not. Or used to anyway...

Also I don't see where you mentioned where you're getting power to the Pertronix. It has to have full 12v to run consistently. If you're using the old Red w/green resistor wire it's not going to work. Some here have been lucky in using that wire, while many others have not. Check that.

And for timing, I would not necessarily trust the timing marks on ANY rebuilt Ford engine. In their infinite wisdom, they had three or four different versions of the timing marks on the damper rings, for different applications. If your damper is from a car, and your timing pointer for a truck, and neither for a Bronco, then your timing marks are completely useless and you simply have to time it by ear for now.
Only verifying TDC physically, then marking the damper ring or using timing tape to match the pointer on the particular engine will give you the ability to use the timing marks in the future.

Anyway, let us know what you find with the vacuum, and see if any of those other things are causing you trouble.

Paul
 
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jperry1290

jperry1290

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2010
Messages
920
Pulled dist and restabbed to verify #1 @ tdc, timing set at 12°. Checked all plugs and found #3 was slightly black all other were nice looking. Checked all wires and they 're good. Checked all vacuum lines not dried or cracked. Sprayed carb cleaner around carb, manifold, vac lines while engine was running and did not notice any surges. Pulled brake booster line and car died immediately. Vacuum gauge attached to the left vacuum port on the front(pass side) of edelbrock reads 0 vacuum at idle.

Started up for test drive idles well in drive and neutral. Shifted it into gear and drove around block a few times and no issues. Parked went inside for about 5min and came back out to make a trip to gas station. Started up, died when shifted to reverse. Restarted and drove to gas station, nearly died everytime I stopped at light and pressed brakes while in gear. Pressing brakes in park and neutral doesn't change idle still runs good. Brake booster leak?
 

73azbronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 11, 2007
Messages
8,778
Plug line to brake booster and test drive, same issue or not? BTW, you wont have power brakes so be careful.
 

gr8scott

Contributor
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Jul 1, 2011
Messages
1,890
Vacuum gauge attached to the left vacuum port on the front(pass side) of edelbrock reads 0 vacuum at idle.

That's correct. The pass. side port is timed vacuum, only has vacuum off-idle.
The driver side port is full manifold vacuum, use that port.
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,872
When the engine backfired you probably popped a vacuum plug off or even the vacuum diaphragm to the distributor. Stalling in reverse is a sign very common with vacuum leaks.
 
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jperry1290

jperry1290

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2010
Messages
920
Plugged brake booster with no effect. Seems the vac hose for the dist was loose at the carb didn't show up when spraying carb cleaner.

I bumped up RPMs at idle and added richness to the carb mix. It runs good now but rpm at park and N seems a bit high, I don't have a tach. Rpms at idle in drive seems good. Could my problem just have been a poorly adjusted carb.

Still 0 vacuum on the passenger port, 19-20 on the drivers side at idle.
 
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