Self bleeders

[SteveL]

What's the best or better self bleeding set up? Tried the little hand held pump with not much luck. Had better luck with the kid pumping the brake pedal. I'm thinking in the $100‐150 range. Tired of looking at the broncos sit. 66 just needs brakes blee. Gotta figure out what's wrong or bad on the new hydroboost on the 72. Double checked connections and stuff. All Underhood parts are new. Cant get rid of real stiff pedal. Starting to think new hydroboost unit might be bad.

 

[Rustytruck]

I had better luck with this. But use a large clamp to hold the top on.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/item...-40f3-41bd-b61a-f79bffa57441.jpg&hasWebp=True

 

[Rustytruck]

If you want to use the hand held vacuum pump you remove the bleeder screw and wrap a good amount of teflon tape on the threads and screw the bleeder screw back in. But make damn shure you only wrap the threads. The tape seales the threads so you actually pull a vacuum. It still very hard to pull fluid past the bubble in the line. Pressure from the master cylinder side pushes the bubble all the way out. Put aluminium foil under the master cylinder to create a catch baisin to protect your paint from any spills.

 

[DirtDonk]

Same dilemma here. Nobody around to help anymore, and though I can borrow a cool bleeder from a friend, I wanted to get it back on the road right now.
So I did something new (for me anyway) a few days ago just to get me safely on the road at least.

I removed the caliper from the bracket, lowered it down with the bleeder down low to get some flow, cracked the bleeder and waited for the fluid.
Only took one or two seconds before I had a very good flow, then I turned the caliper to bleeder-up position and watched as air bubbles came out. As that was going on I raised the caliper slowly until the bleeder was the highest point, above the hose.
At the point the bubbles stopped and fluid started to flow full (maybe 10 seconds?), I closed the bleeder, tapped on the hose and caliper with a wrench to break any bubbles loose from the inner surfaces, cracked the bleeder again, then closed it off for the last time after all bubbles were gone.

Re-attached the caliper and then gently pumped the brakes to close the gap.
Did not presume to think that doing it this way would get all the air out, but it still got more than I expected. After two or three pumps on the pedal to extend the piston, the firmness was 85%-90% there and the pedal was almost at original height
Firm eventually, but kind of low like a mid-seventies Ford passenger car!

Took longer to write this than to do it. Including the time it took to remove the caliper and then put it back on and working slow, we're talking about four or five minutes, max.
Of course I had an oil pan underneath and wipes handy to clean the fluid off of the caliper, but it went really fast.
I would still need to get that last bit out, because I know it's not 100%, but I drove it and felt safe in the amount of power it had.

Not that it's going to replace someone at the pedal while you're at the caliper, and I'll do that when someone makes the mistake of stopping by for a visit(!) but it would work in an emergency.

Paul

(edit: I should have mentioned that this was done with fluid already in the lines and no known air troubles up the line to the master. Only work done was at the caliper.)

 

[Apogee]

I'm all for more tools, but why not just get some Speed Bleeders and call it a day? Other than the thread sealant eventually needed to be replenished (which you can buy separately), they work well and make a one-person manual bleed an easy thing to accomplish.

 

[cs_88]

I'm all for more tools, but why not just get some Speed Bleeders and call it a day? Other than the thread sealant eventually needed to be replenished (which you can buy separately), they work well and make a one-person manual bleed an easy thing to accomplish.

I've had good luck with Speed Bleeders as well.

 

[gr8scott]

I'm all for more tools, but why not just get some Speed Bleeders and call it a day? Other than the thread sealant eventually needed to be replenished (which you can buy separately), they work well and make a one-person manual bleed an easy thing to accomplish.

I've had good luck with Speed Bleeders as well.

This^^^
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NDP6751565?keywordInput=6751565

 

[Glass Pony]

I've had good luck with Speed Bleeders as well.

I was into my brake system 3 weeks ago for what seems like the 25th time and my bleeders were starting to get rounded.
So I went to my local auto parts store to get some fresh bleeders when I seen the speed bleeders.(Dorman 12701) This is perfect for me as a 1 man band in the shop.
Me being a sceptic, I enlisted the help from my wife to pump the brakes while I watched the bleeding process. It was a piece of cake! They worked like a charm!
What the speed bleeders wouldn't do was let me do was use my vacuum bleeder on them. But that's ok, I don't need it now.

 

[Pa PITT]

I just crack open the RIGHT REAR & let the fluid drain. Now My Bronco is not painted pretty & Shinny. so I can do this . But I too have stuck a rubber hose over the bleeder & drained fluid back into catch can.
.. But I just let them bleed by themselves now. CLOSE OFF THAT BLEEDER & MOVE TO NEXT. I'll stand up at M/C & pour in new fluid . Yes I use more fluid but It gets done.
..........
... I'd not thought of hanging the Caliper that too would keep fluid from your painted area.

 

[nvrstuk]

Check your hose routing for your hydroboost. If your engine is running AND the hoses are correctly plumbed you will not have a super hard pedal. There is STILL a diagram on this forum floating around that shows incorrect hose routing...

Good luck

 

[SteveL]

I just compared the hose routing again and its correct. I compared it to my 66 that's working fine besides some air in the brake lines. It's making me think the new mc or hydroboost unit is bad