Son of a motherless goat!!

[bronco_daddy]

So today I decided to put in my 3G alternator that I have had sitting in its box for 6 months....the EB has AC so I needed to pull the double bracket as I have a new billet system to install also.

While I was at it I decided to replace the water pump given it has been probably 25 years as part of being proactive. Well, any accessory bolts came out readily as I use Anti Seize on everything...unfortunately the PO did not. 3 bolts snapped off, one into the block the other two into the timing chain cover. I have dealt with rusted bolts for decades but these win hands down. Grab the EZ outs, the bolts are soft so the first drilled readily which was one broken in the timing cover. EZ Out #3 was used and these boys have seen some nasty bolts....it snapped mid shaft. Mutherfugger.

The water pump if off, I have 3 broken bolts that are apparently going to bust my nuts....ideas? I already have PB Blaster on them. I am considering tossing the timing cover and get a new one and concentrate on just the one in the block. I am guessing that I will have to just drill it out and tap it....

Got the headers to redo and I am now considering not even bothering...

 

[xltbeast]

Never fun having bolts broken in the block. Can I suggest a 50-50 mix of atf/kerosene instead of pb blaster. It works much better. If you are feeling lazy or don't want that much of a mess Napa sells a product called yield. It is usually behind the counter so you will have to ask for it. Costs like 18 bucks a can but it works good.


Just ideas to try with the ez-outs if you would rather not tap the block.

 

[TwoDalesDad]

Heat is what I have success using. A propane torch heating as needed then spray with.. KROI OIL..WORKS EVERY TIME...!!!

 

[garberz]

I vote for getting a new timing chain cover, and just deal with the one in the block.

 

[bronco_daddy]

Yeah Garberz! Also, when are you coming up to Paso Robles next?

Bob-

 

[garberz]

Yeah Garberz! Also, when are you coming up to Paso Robles next?

Bob-

My wife and I are coming up Nov. 3rd. We're staying at Cass winerey on Linne rd. I still have your #.

Mark

 

[bronco_daddy]

I am way to paranoid to even pull the bolts for the timing cover. Need to think on this because if they break off, I am going to just say F%ck all of it and go and buy the 400hp 302 crate motor I have been eying for next year...

 

[garberz]

That sounds great. I want to change my vote.

 

[ryansbronco]

if you can get the timing cover off you could weld a nut to the end of the broken bolt then use an impact to remove it.

 

[bronco_daddy]

as weird as this may sound, this EB guy owns no welder nor welds...guess its that time to learn.

Nice that I have support spending all my money on a new motor!!

 

[ryansbronco]

even more redneck
if the shaft of the bolt sticks out far enough you can chuck it up like a drill bit in an electric drill.
.......yes sir Im proud to be a redneck

 

[u10072]

That nut trick is seriously a winner... Soak the hell out of the bolt over night .. Weld on the nut and it should come out. I would find a welder and a buddy before the total pain of the drill and tap route.

 

[patterdale]

A set of left hand drill bits would serve you well. I have had broken bolts back out as I was drilling them. Just make sure you center punch the bolt accurately. If you can grind it flat first. Start with a small bit and work your way up. Use a shot or two of your favorite penetrating fluid as you drill. (yes there is a double meaning to that statement). I have used the weldnut trick quite often just not on anything I wouldn't want to catch on fire as I welded. Plus this is a pretty awkward place/position to be welding for a newbie.

 

[Rustytruck]

The way I deal with this stuff is heat the area hot. remove source of flame and spray pb blaster to cool it and hot soak the broken bolt. then heat it up again and do the same thing. the heating and cooling with the penetrant breaks the corrosion joint and sucks the penetrant in. I will do this at least 5 times before I start drilling. then I drill for the easy out and drill all the way through the bolt to get to the air pocket under the bolt. then I spray pb blaster and then heat it up again and cool with pb blaster again and while fairly hot use the easy out.
Patience is a virtue in this situation.

 

[Jdgephar]

funny how the replacement bolts are the three long ones that always break off. When I did the water pump on my big bronco, even taking off the timing cover was tricky. The bolt doesn't get stuck in the block, it get corroded to the aluminum cover over that 2" where the bolt goes through the timing cover. Galvanic corrosion between steel and aluminum is pretty bad. I hate trying to take out the stainless steel screws in the aluminum housings for the axle hub locks. I had to drill two of those out once. You can get the whole timing cover off, but it takes patience, and some of the suggestions above with heat and penetrating oil.

 

[bmc69]

if you can get the timing cover off you could weld a nut to the end of the broken bolt then use an impact to remove it.

Far and away the best method...in my experience.

 

[fatboy]

if you can get the timing cover off you could weld a nut to the end of the broken bolt then use an impact to remove it.

I did this most recently with the spring bucket bolt in to the control arm cap. The heat from welding really helps break that bolt free. I did not have as much luck with a bolt that broke off flush in the frame while tearing that down. I could not get a good weld on the nut to bolt surface. If a few threads are standing proud, screw the nut on and weld away.

 

[gnpenning]

Anybody using heat and wax or even a crayon??

 

[Timmy390]

Anybody using heat and wax or even a crayon??

Heard of it being done, have not seen it or did it myself.

Many years ago I snapped a transmission cross member bolt, then snapped an easyout inside the bolt then broke a drill bit inside the easy out.

I was young and didn't know what I was doing....LOL

It's still there........not getting that bad boy out.

Tim

 

[jckkys]

Had the same problem with my timing cover. The aluminum reacts with the steel and the hole fills solid with a white substance, aluminum oxide? When you get the cover off the bolts usually come out of the block easily. A junk yard cover is cheap. Even the ones with a dipstick hole work, if you plug the hole. The important thing is to put thread sealer on the bolts that go into the water jacket. Permatex makes it and it really works. The problem wont reoccur. Can't agree with the 400hp 302. To get that much power out of a 302, low end torque and driveability go away. A 400hp 520ci 460 stroker would have a wide torque band and work well in a '78-'79 Bronco. Trucks love torque so I work to get torque at 1500 rpm. What an engine produces at 6000rpm means little on the road or on the trail. A Bronco isn't a Cobra kit car.