Stop/Haz Switch Problem

[JaxLax]

First I have installed a Centech Harness and this is the latest gremlin to appear. (PS was working fine til i installed the radio?) But now I have nothing. Here's the lowdown: With the ignition off: w/o fuse in, getting 0 volts @ fuse box. w/fuse in getting 12.25 volts at the flasher (took out and put in prongs of volt meter). With the power on: w/o fuse: still getting a 0 volt charge. w/ fuse in (again measurement taken @ flasher unit) got a 11.72 volt drop. with it off and the fuse in pulled hazard and charge went from 11.72 to 11.70 volts (w/o flasher unit and the fuse in). again without flasher and with fuse, pushed brakes and volt drop went from 11.72 to 11.50. But as soon as i put both on at same time (with ignition in off position) fuse blows immediately... (haven't tried installing both after ignition is on, just feel this is a BAD idea) basically does this mean I need a new flasher unit? Should i try and switch the ones i have now and see what happens? Or is there something else that i am missing? sorry about being so long winded, just thought it was better the more info i gave.
Thanks in advance for any help - matt

 

[stevew]

What did you do with the "extra" wires for a dash mounted flasher ? Centech is set up for either a dash unit ( early ) or the later steering column flasher . If you don't seriously tape or cut off & tape those extra leads you'll get problems . I've never had a major problem by simply following exactly the set up instructions in 7 Centech installs .

 

[Skuzzlebutt]

Use your ohmmeter on the flasher testing between each prong and the housing. If there's continuity then replace it. If not, the flasher is not causing a short. This won't tell you if the flasher works, it is just a test for a shorted circuit.

 

[JaxLax]

SteveW That was right on. I got back undre there and taped them off, and it's perfect now. I guess when the radio went in all the open connectors were touching the metal casing.

Thanks again! -matt