I also replaced the ignition control module at the same time.
There are three wires coming out of the distributor, orange, tan and black.
Confirmed by both your description and most definitely by the pics. Ford Dura Spark. And a pretty vintage one at that!
Be curious if yours is a very late production '73, but most likely and judging by the wiring it appears to have been swapped in by a PO.
Your problem could still be carburetor OR ignition (or even something oddball like a broken valve spring or bent pushrod), but at least we know more about your rig.
Unfortunately an ignition module or coil being new is not a guarantee of either of them working for long. It's a sad state of affairs when it comes to the quality and longevity of even the more expensive supposedly better parts these days. But the fact that you still have spark is at least a good sign.
I would do the suggested and check the ohms readings on every plug wire, concentrating on the ones that did not make a difference. Spark plugs too, but wires especially.
Personally with my old habits I'd do a full tune-up and replace all the standard wear items, including cap, rotor, wires and plugs. If that doesn't help, then I'd have all these nice spares to use the next time. But I realize that not everyone is keen on building up a massive supply of partly-used-but-still-serviceable parts for storage and later use.
Hence the need for a multi-meter in your collection. If you have one, you can check the wires, the stator inside the distributor and coil. Then replace anything that's sketchy or unknown. If you don't know how old your plug wires and cap and rotor are for example, they're probably ready to get replaced.
The stator is measured by disconnecting the distributor and measuring resistance between the Orange and Purple wires (or in your case, the two non-black wires). You're looking for a reading between 400 and 700 ohms. Anything near the limits, or over them, means it's time to replace the stator.
The cap and rotor are easy and cheap enough to just replace.
The coil has a value too, but I don't know what it is. There are generic values, but it might help to know exactly which coil you bought.
Not sure how to test an ignition control module, but it's probably fine since you have spark.
If the engine would stay running you could check the voltage at the ignition coil's positive side at the Red w/green wire. Should be between 7 and 9 volts after running for a few minutes. Maybe you can check with just the key in the ON position as long as you don't leave it on too long. Just a couple of minutes is probably safe.
Don't want to overheat the coil.
Alternately you can check the ohms of the same Red w/green wire between the ignition switch and the coil. Someone here again will have to tell you the value you're looking for. I don't know and have never had to test one (knock on wood!) so far.
Back to the carburetor, there are probably still things to check. With the Ford carb you can take the top off and peek inside pretty easily. With some, you can even remove the top and run the engine to see what's going on inside! That's a real cool thing to do if you ever get the chance. Watching it do it's entire process from the inside while the top is off and engine running is just cool beans.
Back to the ignition, if you have not already you might pull some plugs to make sure they're not fouled up with oil, or soot from running too rich.
Don't have any further suggestions at the moment. It's basically all up to you of course, since you're there turning the wrenches and screwdrivers. But we're out here yelling encouragement to help!
Paul
