Bronk74
Sr. Member
When engine is cold sending unit is at 14 .2 ohms....what's strange is the temp gauge worked before i removed the dash. Wiring is hooked up .....not sure what else is issue.
Community
Buy / Sell
Bronco Tech
Fuel Tank Access Plate
3 Arm Wiper Setup
Fix Motor Mount
Roll Cage Braces
Throttle Body 65mm
Wheel Alignment
Heat Riser Replacement
Vent Window Repair
Center Console Mount
Straighten Bumper
Ford 6R80 6 spd
More Tech...
3 Arm Wiper Setup
Fix Motor Mount
Roll Cage Braces
Throttle Body 65mm
Wheel Alignment
Heat Riser Replacement
Vent Window Repair
Center Console Mount
Straighten Bumper
Ford 6R80 6 spd
More Tech...
-
Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.
Temp gauge not working
- Thread starter Bronk74
- Start date
Are oil pressure and fuel tank level gages behaving?
Steve83
Bronco Guru
Neither are we, since you told us NOTHING about the Bronco, its history, the history of this symptom, why you pulled the dash, which wiring is hooked up & which might not be; nor did you post ANY pics. You should put ALL your truck's details & history (as much as you know) into your signature(<-click that) so it shows with each post. Phone apps don't always show signatures, so you may need to switch to a real browser in desktop mode on your phone, or just use a desktop/laptop computer. Put your location (nearest city) in your profile &/or signature. Not all its details are relevant to these issues, but you don't necessarily know which ones are relevant, so just put everything in now. The more pics you post (NOT in your sig) of the truck, engine, wiring, & relevant parts, the more likely we can help you.
Hi, the two quick tests are; ground the wire at the sender and the gauge should go full sweep. Next, use your test light and check for pulsing current at the sender wire. Post what you find. Good luck.
OP
OP
Bronk74
Sr. Member
Yes
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 51,619
That’s a good thing. It means everything from the ignition switch to the instrument voltage regulator (IVR) to the at least the other two gauges, is working fine.
Next test I would run would be to remove the connector from the water temp sensor in the intake manifold, stick a wire into the end and ground it.
Turn the key and see if the temperature needle pegs.
If it does, then the gauge and the wiring between it and the sender are good. That leaves only the sensor itself, or the connector is too loose fitting from old age.
A simple, quick gentle crimp can test that theory.
Next test I would run would be to remove the connector from the water temp sensor in the intake manifold, stick a wire into the end and ground it.
Turn the key and see if the temperature needle pegs.
If it does, then the gauge and the wiring between it and the sender are good. That leaves only the sensor itself, or the connector is too loose fitting from old age.
A simple, quick gentle crimp can test that theory.
Broncobowsher
Total hack
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2002
- Messages
- 37,072
After that check...
If the gauge doesn't work, go to the back of the gauge and try again. Ground straight to the gauge.
Gauge pegs, you have a wiring issue
Gauge still doesn't move...
Test light will come in handy next. Check for power from the IVR to the gauge. That connection may not be solid, so actual gauge, not just the wire.
Next a meter and check for resistance across the meter with no wires connected. I don't remember the number off the top of my head. Of the meter is showing "OL" that is a bad gauge. If there is a number and it starts with an "M", it is measuring the resistance of your fingers that are touching the probes. I expect a number without a letter in front of it. If there is a "k" it better be a very small number around 1. The heating element in the gauge can burn out. Another option, the gauge itself just got stuck. The heater works, (these are thermal gauges that move based on a heater warming up a bimetalic spring) but the needle part is stuck.
If the gauge doesn't work, go to the back of the gauge and try again. Ground straight to the gauge.
Gauge pegs, you have a wiring issue
Gauge still doesn't move...
Test light will come in handy next. Check for power from the IVR to the gauge. That connection may not be solid, so actual gauge, not just the wire.
Next a meter and check for resistance across the meter with no wires connected. I don't remember the number off the top of my head. Of the meter is showing "OL" that is a bad gauge. If there is a number and it starts with an "M", it is measuring the resistance of your fingers that are touching the probes. I expect a number without a letter in front of it. If there is a "k" it better be a very small number around 1. The heating element in the gauge can burn out. Another option, the gauge itself just got stuck. The heater works, (these are thermal gauges that move based on a heater warming up a bimetalic spring) but the needle part is stuck.
Broncobowsher
Total hack
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2002
- Messages
- 37,072
The factory gauge is electrical. The mechanical gauges (aftermarket) use a sensing bulb and a tube. Damage with the bulb or line and the gauge is not repairable.
Skiddy
Bronco Guru
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2003
- Messages
- 11,587
Not after market, seen a video of them putting the bulb in ice water and see if the bulb will bubble if it’s leaking there. They use ether from what I understand. Sorry it’s not in a bronco
That’s Kevin at Classy Gauges. I just sent him a gauge cluster yesterday.
Skiddy
Bronco Guru
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2003
- Messages
- 11,587
He does a good job
OP
OP
Bronk74
Sr. Member
Just replaced sending unit on the block and temp gauge works thanks to all that helped
