Timing issues after removing 'points'

[Jess Luvs 2Romp]

Ok, well when i had points the distributor was oriented this way:

now after installing "IGNITOR" by PATRINEX or whatever, this thing http://www.vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/ignitor.htm

NOW, when i oriented the distributor in the same way, and timed it with top dead center n' all, it does not even fart. no spark to gas contact at all it seems.

But when i orient the distributor way far to the left (away from the coil), it actually starts up.. but doesn't run the greatest, and gives me no power when driving it.. i can't even make it up a f'n hill in first gear.

can anyone shed some light?

 

[Scott M]

man, i don't know

i put mine in so long ago. i'm pretty sure it was drop in (I don't think I would have even known) how to set the timing back then.

just went to the garage and looked at it though. i don't see any rotational adjustment that would reorient it. just the tangential adjustment that allows the gap b/t the rotor portion an dthe pickup mounted to the advance plate.

did you pull the wires or anything. something just ain't ringing true to me. unless there's an incompatability issue w/ the coil or something, but I just don't know enough about them to know whether that could be an issue. just know mine worked great and hasn't skipped a beat. you sure wires are snug in each of the sockets.

I know there is a 6 cylinder version. Any chance you got that one. also heard of folks getting defective ones. just don't sound right to me. you got the gaps right (although i don't see why that would cause your problem)

 

[paramagic]

Gap makes an enormous difference. It should have come with a plastic gapping gauge. Call them or wild horses, they're pretty cool about helping out.

 

[Scott M]

what i'm saying is, ideally, the gap (b/t pickup and rotor, or "magnetic sleeve") shouldn't change as you rotate dizzy, making it run or not run. a couple of months ago their tech guy told me plug gaps should just be increased .01 from stock.

anyways, you've probably got them, but if ya need instructions, email me and I can send ya a copy that somebody posted for me this spring.

 

[paramagic]

Right.
Mine did the same thing when I swapped engines and ended with the pick-up against the rotor, as in no gap.

 

[Skuzzlebutt]

Hard to tell for sure in the pic but the firing order doesn't look right.

 

[broncnaz]

Good one Skuzzlebutt. I had to take a second look but I would agree firing order is not stock. One other thing just because the dist is in the same position doesnt mean the rotor was put back in the same position that you removed it from. Put the engine back on TDC then pull the dist cap does the rotor point to where the number 1 wire should be? If not either pull the dist and reinstall so it line up or rewire the cap.

 

[stlkikn]

Looking at the pic, your dist is out 180*...
if you have a 302 (not a 5.0 0r 351) your firing order and wires should be oriented like the attached picture. (the top is for a small dist cap like yours)
good luck

 

[Jess Luvs 2Romp]

thanks all.. fouind out the problem, heh, set it up the way the chilton had it, like the picture you posted above.. but for some reason it has to be set up 180 off like it is in the original picture.. i'm thinkin maybe a different cam or something? it is a rebuilt motor.. well thanks all for the help.

still havin the lack of power thouhg... gonna put a timing gun to it tomorrow, hopefully that'll fix it.. but should it have that noticible lack of power off by a few degrees of timing?

 

[Skuzzlebutt]

If the dizzy was installed while #1 was @TDC of the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke (360* off), then installing the wires 180* off would be a 100% acceptable fix, except for when the next owner is trying to figure things out.
But still, yours looks like it goes 1-4-5-... Or 1-3-5-...
instead of 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.