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Timing moving

crisrenn

New Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2016
Messages
10
Loc.
Wabash
71 Stock 302. Jumped out of time, I thought. I was able to turn the distributor and get it back. Moved out again. Decided it needed timing chain. Got the timing cover off, didn't look to be out of time. Decided it must have jumped back. Did the timing chain and gear replacement. Ran great. Then out of time again. Readjusted the distributer. Ran great. Moved out of time again. Pulled the distributer again. Inspected the cam gear all the way around twice, and the distributer gear. Look fine. No unusual wear, no missing teeth. Distributer gear appears to still be pinned solid to the distributer shaft. I only tested that by hand. No vice or pliers. Shaft is solid as far as I can tell. Again just by hand twisting.
What in the wide world of sports is going on?

%)
 

SHX669

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 9, 2009
Messages
1,997
Does your rotor fit tight against the distributor shaft ?
Is your "lock down " screw and bracket tight and holding the distributor securely in place so it can't turn?
 

77broncodriver

Full Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2009
Messages
344
I had a similar issue where I would check the timing and it would be off. Turns out the keyway of my balancer had became 4 times the width of the key so the timing marks were in different locations every time I would check the timing.
 

Crush

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
May 30, 2007
Messages
3,463
Loc.
Greenbottom, WV
Mine did that and the dizzy gear pin had sheareed off but it was still tight. Could not turn it by hand or with a little force. How i discovered it is the gear pin was 90* from the shaft pin. In other words if you could look at them from above they would make a plus sign. I check a bunch of other dizzies i had laying around and the pins were oriented the same direction. So i forced the gear off the shaft and sure enough the pin was broken and the gear 90* off. Drove out the old pin and reinstalled the gear. No problems since
 
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crisrenn

New Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2016
Messages
10
Loc.
Wabash
Does your rotor fit tight against the distributor shaft ?
Is your "lock down " screw and bracket tight and holding the distributor securely in place so it can't turn?

Yes, the dist is not turning on it's own.
 
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crisrenn

New Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2016
Messages
10
Loc.
Wabash
I had a similar issue where I would check the timing and it would be off. Turns out the keyway of my balancer had became 4 times the width of the key so the timing marks were in different locations every time I would check the timing.

I just replaced the timing gears, the key way was fine.
 
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crisrenn

New Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2016
Messages
10
Loc.
Wabash
Mine did that and the dizzy gear pin had sheareed off but it was still tight. Could not turn it by hand or with a little force. How i discovered it is the gear pin was 90* from the shaft pin. In other words if you could look at them from above they would make a plus sign. I check a bunch of other dizzies i had laying around and the pins were oriented the same direction. So i forced the gear off the shaft and sure enough the pin was broken and the gear 90* off. Drove out the old pin and reinstalled the gear. No problems since

The pins were in the same orientation. I can double check that though to see if it holds up with more pressure applied.
 
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crisrenn

New Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2016
Messages
10
Loc.
Wabash
This thing gets out of time enough that I have to pull and reposition the distributer to get it back.
 

SHX669

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 9, 2009
Messages
1,997
This thing gets out of time enough that I have to pull and reposition the distributer to get it back.
Generally when that happens the timing chain has jumped a tooth or two but since you replaced that - hmm .
On a side note ; if you pull the distributor and " reposition " it you'll change the ignition timing in relation to the valve timing = burnt valve/valves.
 

SteveL

Huge chevy guy
Joined
Jun 24, 2001
Messages
11,776
Loc.
Hawthorne ca
As in what with the cam?

I believe the cam wore down where the dizzy gear rides. It was a week before my wedding(22 years ago) so I had a shop deal with it. Wish I'd have done it myself. For what they charged I could've built and installed a new motor.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,852
this is still the original points type distributor presumably?

And can you inspect the condition of the damper ring on the crank damper, to make sure it is not slipping. I'm thinking this is NOT the issue, but didn't see it mentioned and thought it would be good to know.

But since you've changed the timing so very often already and it still seems to be running properly(?) it really should not be any of the usual suspects mentioned.
If the cam and crank timing were moving so much, it would run like crap even when ignition timing is good.
If the crank and ignition timing were moving so much due to most circumstances, it would run like crap too.
If you have to move it so far you have to pull the distributor to skip a tooth, that's a LOT of variation!

How has it been running in all this, and have you known the timing was off each time because it starts to run like crap until you get the marks lined back up?

I've certainly seen plenty of inconsistent timing issues, but never one that was so consistently far off you have to move the distributor gear position multiple times.

Good luck!

Paul
 
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crisrenn

New Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2016
Messages
10
Loc.
Wabash
this is still the original points type distributor presumably?

And can you inspect the condition of the damper ring on the crank damper, to make sure it is not slipping. I'm thinking this is NOT the issue, but didn't see it mentioned and thought it would be good to know.

But since you've changed the timing so very often already and it still seems to be running properly(?) it really should not be any of the usual suspects mentioned.
If the cam and crank timing were moving so much, it would run like crap even when ignition timing is good.
If the crank and ignition timing were moving so much due to most circumstances, it would run like crap too.
If you have to move it so far you have to pull the distributor to skip a tooth, that's a LOT of variation!

How has it been running in all this, and have you known the timing was off each time because it starts to run like crap until you get the marks lined back up?

I've certainly seen plenty of inconsistent timing issues, but never one that was so consistently far off you have to move the distributor gear position multiple times.

Good luck!

Paul

Yes, Points are still in it. Yes, after repositioning the distributor & resetting the timing it runs fine. Then it somehow ends up running like crap, what ive been doing is just adjusting the distributor until it runs good again without setting the timing with a light. I finally, just today, swapped out the distributor. I set the timing at 6 btdc and it stuttered and farted a lot. I now have it set at about 2 ATDC. It runs well but will giva a backfire when I shut it off. I did think about the balancer rubber perhaps letting the outer ring move on the crank pulley but that would only show the timing off on the pointer, it wouldn't move the timing. I'm going to leave it as is for a while and see if it moves out of time with this different distributor.

I appreciate everyone's input! :)
 
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crisrenn

New Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2016
Messages
10
Loc.
Wabash
I believe the cam wore down where the dizzy gear rides. It was a week before my wedding(22 years ago) so I had a shop deal with it. Wish I'd have done it myself. For what they charged I could've built and installed a new motor.

The cam gear looks good. I had a buddy manually turn the crank while I peeped down the dist. hole.
 
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crisrenn

New Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2016
Messages
10
Loc.
Wabash
Generally when that happens the timing chain has jumped a tooth or two but since you replaced that - hmm .
On a side note ; if you pull the distributor and " reposition " it you'll change the ignition timing in relation to the valve timing = burnt valve/valves.

When I pull the dist. I'm positioning the motor back at tdc beforehand.
 

jckkys

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 15, 2012
Messages
5,212
How's the new distributor working? I was going to suggest checking the centrifugal advance, to see if it's binding or if the one of the springs is broken.
 
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crisrenn

New Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2016
Messages
10
Loc.
Wabash
Mine did that and the dizzy gear pin had sheareed off but it was still tight. Could not turn it by hand or with a little force. How i discovered it is the gear pin was 90* from the shaft pin. In other words if you could look at them from above they would make a plus sign. I check a bunch of other dizzies i had laying around and the pins were oriented the same direction. So i forced the gear off the shaft and sure enough the pin was broken and the gear 90* off. Drove out the old pin and reinstalled the gear. No problems since

I positioned the dist upside down in a vice with the vice loosely suspending it under the gear and gave the shaft about 6 good raps with a hammer on a block of wood. Nothing moved. I guess I'll see if I can drive the pin out. & and the pin drove out all in one piece...
 

B RON CO

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 29, 2016
Messages
2,442
Loc.
Statesville, NC
Hi, is it possible the rotor is not keyed properly and is spinning on the distributor shaft? Or the distributor shaft is split in the housing.
I have read this post a couple of times and the moving rotor is all I can think of.
Everything is linked together by gears and chains and steel pins.
That is my wild guess.
Good luck
 

SHX669

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 9, 2009
Messages
1,997
Just throwing a few things out there ; does the rotor fit tight and have the proper shoulder to notch fit to prevent it from turning on the distributor shaft .
Which cylinder are you using as #1 - { passenger side closet to the radiator} ?
Does your distributor have one OR two vacuum connections ?
Where do you have these vacuum lines connected ?
 
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