WH Trac Bar Riser install questions

[Bundy]

In the WH directions it says to leave the stock bracket on and use the stock bolt as a reference for mounting. I don't think I have a stock riser bracket- you can see the gap from the side when the WH is placed over the existing bracket and it's not even close. Does anyone know if this is aftermarket?

If I completely cut off the old bracket, can I just weld the new WH riser in it's place without any reinforcement? I just need to weld it in as close to the original position as possible, right? It also says to weld every touching surface to the axles tube, does that mean both sides of the bracket or just around one side?

Here are some pics with the WH riser over the bolt-the existing bracket looks like it would have to come back quite a bit for the new riser to make contact

 

[Bundy]

in the first pic, I just noticed you can see what is left of the original riser maybe?

 

[joshd1971bronco]

man, it looks like a stock bracket to me as far as I can tell. Is that a Dana 30 or a 44?

I have a WH riser bracket as well (but haven't installed it) - now you got me worried!!! :-[

If I remember, there are four holes in the front of the bracket - two lower slotted holes and two upper round holes.

I actually have their instructions printed off here:

For all dana 30's and 71-75 dana 44's, lower hole is what is used. For the 76-77 dana 44's, the upper holse is used.

Does that make a difference?

 

[DirtDonk]

Looks stock to me. Better give 'em a quick call before they close (you have half-an-hour!) and see what they say. Send them the pics, or tell them to check out this thread and see what they think.
You could still possibly be doing something wrong, I suppose, but it sure looks like a mis-fit to me from here.
Maybe it got bent? The extra gap on the passenger side front (c-bushing side) looks workable and may be a natural variation from one truck to the next, but the gap along it's length of the axle tube looks a little insurmountable at first glance.

But call them first, see what they say and let us know.

Paul

 

[Bundy]

Good idea Paul- I called and emailed them over some pics- hopefully they have some insight for me on what to do.

 

[WILDHORSES]

First lets get the bracket as far to the right as possible. The bottom holes are slotted so you should be able to move the new bracket all the way to the right until it hits the stock bracket. There should be no gap on the left between the new and old bracket.

As for the gap between the tube and bracket that's more then we are used to seeing so it could be variance at Ford 40 years ago or variance on our part. This is the second one I have seen that has the gap.

If you need to get the job done right now here is what you can do.
1. Put some good solid tack welds (1" or so) on the left side of the bracket. Top, bottom and sides.
2. If your an excellent welder you could fill the gap or add a small filler piece and go to town with the Lincoln or Miller. Weld top and bottom then go back and weld all the touching surfaces on the left side. Basically you want to make it part of the front end with no chance of ever coming off.

If we made a batch with to little bend it will take 3-4 weeks to get a new batch. I'm going to check into our stock and see when the last ones came in and fit them to some housings we have here.

I'll check back Wed. and see how it's going.

Jim

In the WH directions it says to leave the stock bracket on and use the stock bolt as a reference for mounting. I don't think I have a stock riser bracket- you can see the gap from the side when the WH is placed over the existing bracket and it's not even close. Does anyone know if this is aftermarket?

If I completely cut off the old bracket, can I just weld the new WH riser in it's place without any reinforcement? I just need to weld it in as close to the original position as possible, right? It also says to weld every touching surface to the axles tube, does that mean both sides of the bracket or just around one side?

Here are some pics with the WH riser over the bolt-the existing bracket looks like it would have to come back quite a bit for the new riser to make contact

 

[NicksTrix]

if the factory mount is some how too far fwd on the hsg, you'd have that gaps that are shown. the WH bracket is based off it's location.
it is a bronco after all. they didn't have the tightest of build standards.

if you're a competant welder you could build the lower section of the new mount up on the tube radius and get it to fit tight. as jim said you could then put a small piece of thick material on the horizontal to weld to hsg and the bracket to eaily make it one.

 

[Bundy]

Thanks for checking Jim- I'm sure it's probably just my luck and the stock mount is off just enough to make it a little harder... as Nick pointed out, it's a Bronco!

Just FYI, I had the WH bracket pressed as flush against the stock bracket as possible and I had the gap along the length of the tube shown above. I can move the bracket to close the gap a little (along the tube) but then it opens up a gap on the other side.

Sounds like it's a better idea to have it be snug against the stock bracket and as you guys said, find some material to fill in along the length of the tube and go from there.

Thanks for all the help. I'll still wait to see what Jim says just in case the cut was off, but not holding my breath. I don't think anything is straight on this rig!

 

[mikeginn]

I was about to order one of these. Curious to see the outcome

 

[TBS-POPS]

I have heard of others that have had gaps to fill with those brackets. those dont seem too bad and yes, it is a bronco and no two are the same. you can build parts that fit one and they wont fit another without mods. I am sure Jim will atest to that. and as always he will do his damdest to make sure your happy.

 

[Dbarnes72]

I've got nothing useful to add to this tech post but gotta say Wildhorses rocks for customer service!!

 

[carter2772]

BFH!!!! Lol, just posting to mark the thread and see how it goes... Good luck!

 

[DirtDonk]

Well, as thick as that stuff is, you can still beat the crap out of it and bend it a bit to tighten up the gap along the axle tube.
Naturally, don't do anything like that until they've determined you're 4 weeks out for a new one! If they've got 'em though, wait for the replacement.

Remember though, there is something very therapeutic about beating on metal objects to make them fit your world.
Doesn't do much for warranties, but it's great for stress!

Paul

 

[ransil]

looks ok to me...fill the gap.. bolt it in using the stock trac bar stud.

I found it better to connect the trac bar ( in the vehicle) then tack the bracket in place if it not in the right position the fixed end track bar will not fit( twist) I had to use an adjustable on cause my new track bar bolt was not quite where it needed to be.

 

[hdmc]

mine fit the same way i just filled the gap . i think the one driven sells works better

 

[marklc]

Who is Driven? Just wondered because I will be installing one of these myself very soon.
Thanks

 

[hdmc]

Who is Driven? Just wondered because I will be installing one of these myself very soon.
Thanks

driven auto parts top of the page

 

[marklc]

DUH missed that thanks!

 

[broncodriver99]

Something looks odd about that bracket. Did the trac bar bracket change fotr the 76-77 years? What year are your axles?

Here are a couple of pics from my '73 axle:

 

[mikeginn]

duff has a raise bracket as well.
http://www.dufftuff.com/product_p/5406.htm
it raises up the track bar 3.5 inches tho. I have a 3.5 lift, and have the track bar on without any drop or lift brackets, and it looks like I need to raise it only an inch or so. I may be wrong. Kind of why I liked the wh adjustable bracket.

Talked to chuck at bc and he said he has one as well, not listed on his site