'74 Tie rod end replacement, spindle too small

[DirtDonk]

I'm only 88 & 44/100ths percent sure that the shims will work.
It's still an F150, so very likely uses the same size hole as the standard F150 and full-size Bronco from the later seventies. But I don't remember any instance of anyone trying the shims on the Super Cab knuckles.
Which is why I'm not the full 100% sure.

But confidence is pretty high...

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

In fact, just to add more data to the use of these Unicorn knuckles, it would not be a bad idea to throw a tape measure on the setup as it sits currently to be sure that you will be able to adjust the toe-in settings properly with the existing tie-rod.

It probably is not necessary, but hey, anything that can save some grief later on by spending five minutes now, is not a bad thing.
Rather than doing the whole toe-in measurement though, maybe we can just compare existing known measurements to what you have now.
Obviously yours is not going to be precise because the rod ends are so loose, but you'll be able to tell if the adjustment available in the sleeve is going to be enough. I have both Early Bronco AND standard F150 knuckles with proper toe-in sitting right out front, so I can get those measurements for you tomorrow.

Or maybe you checked already? That would be when you installed the new tie-rod and you know the wheels had not moved between the time you removed the old tie-rod and when you installed the new one to fit the holes?
Is that how you handled the initial install?

Paul

 

[bahowe1]

Thank you for all your help!
I have only had the bronco for about a year. When I bought it, it had been sitting for many years (in the dry). The owner wasn’t sure how much it would take to get it running, and it was not even in running condition when he bought it, so it was neither he nor I that did the conversion.
All that to say, I am not sure it is even aligned proper now. But yes, when I took off the old links, I used the old ones to set the length of the new ones. And yes, I didn’t move the wheels or steering to make sure I kept it the same.
The only driving I have been doing so far is sorta kicking around, short local trips trying to sort of test it out and gain confidence in it. Now that I see that bolt is potentially out of place (thanks to you), I need to look over brakes.
So yeah, If you could check your numbers, that would help me. If however these unicorn knuckles have longer it different angled arms, the toe measurement wouldn’t exactly work out. I guess I could also measure front to wheel to back of wheel to get an idea, if the wheels are close.
Today I’ll take it all back off, measure the holes and also measure for toe.

 

[DirtDonk]

If the toe was set properly (or even close to it) during the initial brake installation, it's probably still pretty close. I would not worry too much about it unless it steers funny or looks visibly wrong. At least for now.
Toe-in is something you can mess with as you go too. Easy to adjust a tiny bit at a time until you feel like you're getting your best results.
Never hurts to have an alignment shop do the initial adjustment when you get to that point, but then you play with it as you go because they only use the original factory specifications expected to work with original factory tires.

If it's easy enough for you to check though, by all means go for it. If only for peace of mind!
Every time you do something, even minor, it's one less thing you have to have questions about down the road.

Paul

 

[bahowe1]

Apologies for the delay. Happy Easter!
The steering arm hole is .75” diameter at the bottom and .64” at the top. Think the shims will fit?

Two, as it sits now, distance from steering arm hole center to center is just a hair shy of 50”, maybe a 1-16 or 32nd less.

Now I’m going to look at front brakes.
Lemme know your thoughts. Thanks In advance!
So brakes. I checked those bolts, the drivers side is near flush, the passenger side was out. I was able to back it out and noticed some blue thread locker on it. When I tried to wind it back in, it’s almost like the through bore and tap needs to be retapped because it started getting tight before the bolt bottom started making its way out the other side. I wound it in as far as I was comfortable and I’ll let that thread locker hold it from there. Better than it was.

So, think I’m all clear to order shims and new boots??

 

[DirtDonk]

That second pic shows the tensioning spring missing on the slider.
Note the first pic shows that metal tab hanging over the edge? That's a tensioner and needs to be there.
If you don't have one you can buy the hardware.

Whenever you work on these it's a good practice to use anti-seize or something on the bolts. They tend to rust in a bit (as perhaps you're finding out?) and can break off easily. Thank goodness someone thought to make two holes!

Oh, and my F150 tie-rod is about 48.5" across, measured from center of stud to center of stud.
Different knuckles and steering arms of course, mine being standard and yours SuperCab. But the width I thought would be close.

Paul

 

[bahowe1]

Awesome, thanks for all the help!
So I guess the last question now, will those 'Tapered sleeves for F-150 Knuckles Pair' fit the supercab steering arm hole? Should I just call Wild Horses and ask them the OD for the larger portion of the shim, or does someone already know this answer?
Thanks!

 

[DirtDonk]

Yes, probably best to call it in tomorrow. But...
I'm pretty sure I have a set here, but if I can't put my hands on them tonight, they should be able to help at the shop.

We'll know in a bit...

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Nevermind...

.670" to .760"

PDC (pretty darn close)

Paul

 

[bahowe1]

Paul, Thank you!
It sounds like they should work just fine. I will order those today and hopefully get this problem resolved.

 

[bahowe1]

Solution - Thanks to all you guys - and specifically Paul and Steve! - I put in the shims last night, they fit perfect and solved the problem. Thank you all!
So the outcome, I had the supercab brakes, and steering arm holes must be the same as other F150 disc brake upgrades, so that shim is needed to make up the difference. Also note that I had tried the washer trick and it wouldn't work in this application just because it still didn't allow the OD of the ball joint shaft to make a good connection with the ID of the steering arms. I just want to make sure someone else doesn't try that in this case.

 

[DirtDonk]

Great news. Nothing like the feel of tight steering.
Thanks for the follow-up. Now it's out there for others that might run into this scenario.

Now on to the next "thing" these things always seem to be able to come up with!%)

Paul