Ignition problems..I'm completly stumped.

[Delbert]

Hi all. After searching thread after thread I can see there are some very smart people here but I still can't figure out my problem. Last weekend my 69 quit on me a mile or two from home after wheeling hundreds of miles with no problems. No spark to plugs. I replaced the ignition switch, coil and even the starter relay with no change. I had a mallory point eliminator kit that I installed probably 10 years ago I figured was the problem. I could not find a replacement so I went with the Accel point eliminator kit....It was the fastest available. I also purchased the wire set that was recommended, a non copper core as well as a matching coil. I installed it today and it started up right away and ran perfect. I was happy! I shut it down to clean up my tools and 30 minutes later go figure it wont start now. Starter turns over fine and it has gas, Just no spark. I don't know crap about electrical. With ignition on I got juice to the pos side of coil but none on neg side. I am using a ballast resistor and have juice to and from it. I'm wondering if it's the point eliminator kit and if so what could be causing it to go bad that fast. I'm about to give up. Is it something obvious? Anyone else experience this?

 

[SHX669]

Try bypassing the ballast resistor to see if that helps - easy test -.easy replace if thats the culprit.

 

[Cohammer]

I had bad wires from switch . Worked some times and not all the time until changed them . Hard to say

 

[Delbert]

Try bypassing the ballast resistor to see if that helps - easy test -.easy replace if thats the culprit.

Thanks for the suggestion. I ran right out to give it a shot. No luck.

 

[Delbert]

I had bad wires from switch . Worked some times and not all the time until changed them . Hard to say

My ignition wires look good and seem to check out. I have juice from switch to ballast and from ballast to coil and to distributor when ignition switch is on. It worked all the time then suddenly didn't work at all. I replaced the point eliminator kit and it worked once before it quit again.

 

[Wyo4x4er]

DO you have good grounds from the body to the frame and from then to the engine and engine to frame? Do you have a single wire altenator or a external regulator? If it is external regulated then the it could be sending voltage spikes to the dizzy.

 

[Delbert]

DO you have good grounds from the body to the frame and from then to the engine and engine to frame? Do you have a single wire altenator or a external regulator? If it is external regulated then the it could be sending voltage spikes to the dizzy.

My grounds are solid but I guess its worth a second look. Its not a single wire alternator it's stock. External regulator? There is a box on the passenger firewall that I always thought that was a voltage regulator you mean that? I really am an idiot when it comes to the elec system. If I remember those are pretty cheep If that could be my problem I'll go get a new one now. If it is sending voltage spikes to the "dizzy" ( haven't heard that term in many years) will that kill the point eliminator unit?
and thank you.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Do you have a tach? Try disconnecting it from the neg side of the coil. It may be bad.

 

[Delbert]

Do you have a tach? Try disconnecting it from the neg side of the coil. It may be bad.

Yes I do. Thank you for suggestion...Just tried it and still no.

 

[savage]

Is it a automatic? If it is, try putting it in neutral, and see if it starts. I'm thinking neutral safety switch.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Is it a automatic? If it is, try putting it in neutral, and see if it starts. I'm thinking neutral safety switch.

The NSS only prevents the solenoid from engaging, not the ignition from firing.

 

[Wyo4x4er]

Yes if your regulator is misbehaving it could be sending too much power to the points kit. Do you have another coil to try as well? Is the coil hot when you try to start it?

 

[Delbert]

Is it a automatic? If it is, try putting it in neutral, and see if it starts. I'm thinking neutral safety switch.

It is an auto but when I did the swap I never installed a NSS.

 

[Delbert]

Yes if your regulator is misbehaving it could be sending too much power to the points kit. Do you have another coil to try as well? Is the coil hot when you try to start it?

Brand new coil. I bought it after the problem started. Hot as in hot to touch? I don't think so. When the ignition is in the start position I get power at the positive terminal. Not the negative...Not sure if that is indicative of anything,

 

[Wyo4x4er]

Well if it is getting hot it could mean the coil is bad. If you have a multimeter you can ohm, check the resistance, the primary and secondary windings. Basically put a lead in the spark plug wire hole and on either terminal and see what it reads, then do the same thing again but with the othe terminal, and finally across both terminals. Kinda sounds more like a bad coil if you have power to it but no spark?

 

[Delbert]

Well if it is getting hot it could mean the coil is bad. If you have a multimeter you can ohm, check the resistance, the primary and secondary windings. Basically put a lead in the spark plug wire hole and on either terminal and see what it reads, then do the same thing again but with the othe terminal, and finally across both terminals. Kinda sounds more like a bad coil if you have power to it but no spark?

From my understanding is that I have a wire from the ignition to pos side of coil, also on the positive terminal I have another wire that goes to the distributor. That wire is showing juice just before it goes into the distributor (RED) The green wire that comes from the distributor to the negative terminal at the coil I get no reading from coming out of the distributor. Is that the way it's supposed to be? I'm feeling dumber by the minute. No multi meter just a light. Maybe go buy another coil. It wouldn't be the first time I bought a bad part of the shelf.
The coil was the first thing I replaced after this started.

 

[jw0747]

check rotor and distributor cap for contact?

 

[Wyo4x4er]

If i remember the negative side only has cranking power? This is because a coil is basically an electromagnec that generates current by collapsing and electrical field. Also did you check to see that the coil is sending spark? easy to check,simply take the coil wire off the dizzy cap, pull the boot end up till you see the terminal and hold it close to something metal like a bracket. if you dont have a spark it is coil, if you do then it is dizzy related.

 

[Wyo4x4er]

I get that you already put a new coil on but that doesnt mean it is still good. brand new does not always mean working

 

[Delbert]

If i remember the negative side only has cranking power? This is because a coil is basically an electromagnec that generates current by collapsing and electrical field. Also did you check to see that the coil is sending spark? easy to check,simply take the coil wire off the dizzy cap, pull the boot end up till you see the terminal and hold it close to something metal like a bracket. if you dont have a spark it is coil, if you do then it is dizzy related.

Ok just checked. The coil does send a spark when cranking engine. It's just one spark for each attempt it's not continuous though?