427 Stroker Refresh. Edelbrock ProFlow-4

[crab]

Those of you that have been around a while might remember the yellow “S”uperman bronco that mountainview68 built 12 years ago. Some of you also know that Chad is a great friend and I purchased that bronco from him several years ago. After 12 years and 6k babied miles (haha) I’ve decided tear it down and give it a little love and who better to tear it down then Chad Here’s a pic with the specs at the time of build and a video to refresh your memory and how babied it’s been.
I’ll start another post so this doesn’t bore everybody.

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...1B05F4167C68B372F6C61B05F4167C68B&FORM=VRRTAP

 

[crab]

So, since it’s creation 12 years ago, we’ve been fighting tuning on this thing. Multiple dyno runs, chips burned and recently had Gary The EFI guy try to dial it in with his quarter horse remote tuning. We just can’t get it “right” and continued to ping. So, I’m ditching the vintage Ford A9L electronics and going to try Edelbrocks Pro-Flo 4 set up. The engine is out, heads are getting freshened up and a little P/P. So now I’m trying to decide what to do with the cam if anything. It just seems to be a bit of a turd for what it is. The last dyno run was 272/344 at the wheels topping out around 4800rpm. I desperately want to step up a little on the cam but don’t want to destroy drivability and vacuum pressure. I’m really hoping the new injection helps clean up the pinging and smooths out the radical pedal response being more progressive.
Any words of wisdom before we seal this thing back up for another decade?

 

[Montoya]

I have run my setup on both the pro-flo efi with the Edelbrock computer and a full stand-alone ecu and both work great. I wouldn't hesitate to run an aggressive cam since it can be compensated for in your tune and most now have O2 sensor feedback to help even more (although the C6 auto might have issues with your cam choice).

The new aftermarket systems today really work better than anything factory from the 90's or even early 00's.

 

[rcmbronc]

Personally I think you are a bit light on camshaft. The large bore really tames the cams out on these. I had this solid roller in my 427 and it was still mild in my opinion.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-35-770-8

I would contact flow tech Induction and get a new custom ground Hydr roller for the motor. Just my opinion.

 

[rguest3]

I would also looking the FAST systems. Very good results.

Your Cam specs don't seem very "Big" at all. I had a 351w with the XE266HR (One step smaller) in it and it was not too big for that at all. Although it wound out a lot more than 4800 RPMs. Sounds like you have a tuning issue to fix. Flow Tech is a good recommendation.

 

[DirtDonk]

There is also the new tunable ECM from Stinger Performance. Sounds like you're already getting the parts together, but in case you have not decided yet and haven't heard about it, check it out.
https://www.stinger-performance.com/

Paul

 

[crab]

I have run my setup on both the pro-flo efi with the Edelbrock computer and a full stand-alone ecu and both work great. I wouldn't hesitate to run an aggressive cam since it can be compensated for in your tune and most now have O2 sensor feedback to help even more (although the C6 auto might have issues with your cam choice).

The new aftermarket systems today really work better than anything factory from the 90's or even early 00's.

I’m curious what issues you think I might have with the C6. It’s handled everything great so far. It’s now a reverse manual valve body and the only issue I had was leaving it it to high of a gear buried in the sand and smoked the fluid. My mistake but nothing a fluid change didn’t fix.

 

[crab]

Personally I think you are a bit light on camshaft. The large bore really tames the cams out on these. I had this solid roller in my 427 and it was still mild in my opinion.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-35-770-8

I would contact flow tech Induction and get a new custom ground Hydr roller for the motor. Just my opinion.

Thanks. I’ll give them a call!

 

[crab]

I would also looking the FAST systems. Very good results.

Your Cam specs don't seem very "Big" at all. I had a 351w with the XE266HR (One step smaller) in it and it was not too big for that at all. Although it wound out a lot more than 4800 RPMs. Sounds like you have a tuning issue to fix. Flow Tech is a good recommendation.

Actually, I looked into FAST which was the direction a buddy of mine chasing the same problem went with. He’s running a 408. After installing, tuning and dyno, he’s still having pinging issues though WAY better then the A9L.
Chad put the Edelbrock Pro-Flo on his 347stroker. Entered the suggested tuning based on components and was with in 1 degree of timing for peak performance on the dyno. We’ll see how it does on the bigger holes

 

[crab]

There is also the new tunable ECM from Stinger Performance. Sounds like you're already getting the parts together, but in case you have not decided yet and haven't heard about it, check it out.
https://www.stinger-performance.com/

Paul

Thanks Paul. Yes, parts are on the floor, so going to move forward with the Pro-Flo. Fingers crossed

 

[brewchief]

I’m curious what issues you think I might have with the C6. It’s handled everything great so far. It’s now a reverse manual valve body and the only issue I had was leaving it it to high of a gear buried in the sand and smoked the fluid. My mistake but nothing a fluid change didn’t fix.

Only thing I can think of is it might need a higher stall converter depending on what you have now.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[ZOSO]

I bet you'll see a big change ditching the long runner intake set-up. They are not that good especially with those cubes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U8SsieMdmYk

 

[Montoya]

I’m curious what issues you think I might have with the C6. It’s handled everything great so far. It’s now a reverse manual valve body and the only issue I had was leaving it it to high of a gear buried in the sand and smoked the fluid. My mistake but nothing a fluid change didn’t fix.

Nothing against a good C6, I have one in my full-size that I love. I was just talking about not being able to control it with the ecu but if you have a manual valve body you'll be good to go.

With modern transmissions, a good aftermarket engine ecu can control the trans shift points and cut engine ignition at certain times to keep things alive. With an older transmission this isn't usually possible thus the hard shifts that require larger everything to survive.

With a manual valve body you don't need to worry about it; take your foot off the loud pedal for a second and shift yourself for silky smooth shifts when your tooling around or just leave it planted and let 'er chirp in second on a hard shift. ;D

 

[73azbronco]

Send your cam info to fordstroker and see what he says. I would not think it should be stopping at less than 5, Mine is supposedly an all in with a static 10:1cr which should ping, but the cam reduces the actual cr to dynamic of about 9. And it does not stop winding at 5k. I have not dynoed mine nor put the timing close to max. Since you say yours pings I'd also say you have to litle cam, what is your built CR?

 

[68ford]

Cam seems very small. My recent 438 build(4.125x4.100) I used a comp cam similar to the one posted above.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-35-773-8/make/ford

AFR 220 heads with a Victor manifold 10.4 comp

https://www.instagram.com/p/BplBfp8guXR/?igshid=17ukvboipax9n

Peak HP is at 5600 and made over 500 ft lb before 3000. It makes great power all the time.

 

[68ford]

Although it may make timing a little more difficult, tightening up the lobe separation will lower you low RPM compression and also increase mid-range torque. It will also make more torque assuming you have free flowing exhaust

 

[crab]

From everything I’ve read and people I talked to, I’ve decided to leave the cam and take care of tuning first. I did get the heads back and they weigh about half of what they did going in! Okay, not quite, but they should flow! One thing that does concern me are the mufflers. The headers are custom built, I believe 1 7/8” primaries and 3” collector. I blew the first set of spintech mufflers wide open and for some reason I installed another set slightly different profile but same chambered muffler. Im think I’d like to try a straight through free flowing muffler. Any ideas? 3” in/out, room isn’t really an issue outside the frame.

 

[ZOSO]

Avoid chambered mufflers if you are trying to get every inch of power out. I'd go with a magnaflow. Im running the 3"in/out 18in body magnaflow. Mild cruising but has a nice bark to it when you get on it.

 

[crab]

Avoid chambered mufflers if you are trying to get every inch of power out. I'd go with a magnaflow. Im running the 3"in/out 18in body magnaflow. Mild cruising but has a nice bark to it when you get on it.

Do you recall what model magnaflow? That’s the direction I’ve been leaning.

 

[EricLar80]

Have you already torn the old EFI off of the engine? If not, I could take a look at the datalog and see if I see anything... Pro-Flow should not give you anything the original EFI could not.