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427 Stroker

DirtDonk

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Nov 3, 2003
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One other thing is through all this I had the body off.

But you do have the full exhaust plumbed in, correct? Don't want open exhaust giving the O2 sensor fits after all.

I also removed the stock starter solenoid and direct wired to solenoid on the starter. I must have messed something up as not the start function on the original key does not work. Just another thing to figure out.

Now how come you added another layer of mystery and imagination and hassle?;D
Depending on the starter, you really need to keep the standard relay intact. for several very good reasons in fact.
First is that the solenoid on the PMGR starters uses more current and taxes the ignition switch along with all the other modern stuff you've got on it. Yes, it should handle it no problem. But with modern stuff it's hard to say and I prefer not to think it's just coincidence that so many people that have done what you did also had their ignition switches fail after.
Second is that the relay is a nice handy spot to put extra power wires. Even if you don't like the look of wires there, there are a lot of wires that would prefer that area to being mounted to the starter.
Otherwise where do you have your power wires? Everything down at the starter now, or do you have a power stud somewhere up on the fender still?
The third reason is that the starter can act like a generator and produce enough signal to keep itself energized and spun up. The starter relay on the fender isolates it and give is a positive shut-off.
Yes, millions of vehicles work this way just fine. But ours don't so we keep the original starter relay in play.

When you found your start function did not work, did any other power items work? Where do you have your main power and charge wires connected now that the starter relay is gone?

Paul
 

JB Fab

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Mar 21, 2004
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1,274
Got sand?

427W T/T
 

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rcmbronc

rcmbronc

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Yes the exhaust is hooked up completely.

All power and charge is hooked to the battery. My truck has a GM alternator in it the the P.O. installed and works good.

I get what you are saying and probably will re install the relay. Just surprised it does not work. I think everything else works but I don’t have the front clip also in yet. I was too worried looking at the lap top screen to look at other things. Could be that the starter solenoid already failed the switch. That will be the next hurdle after I figure out how to reset the dizzy clearances.

Thanks for all the help. I am not doubting that a 427 is way much for a Bronco. This thing started as a mild 408 and exploded. Should be fun. I actually have thought that I need a cobra to put this engine in and a 408 for the bronco.
 

Local Boy

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May 23, 2016
Messages
191
Loc.
Mililani, Hawaii
To each his own...

lol i just got let know on here that a 427 is way to much for a bronco and i should get a mustang if i want to put hp in something ;D

Why not have a street legal Bronco that can smoke a mustang? ...at least a 1-2 car gap......up until @ 85 mph at which time I'm hard on the brakes... then watch for the notorious "loser fly-by".... ;D

Now THAT is exciting!!!

Aloha
 
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rmk57

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Feb 24, 2016
Messages
580
Why not have a street legal Bronco that can smoke a mustang? ...at least a 1-2 car gap......up until @ 85 mph at which time I'm hard on the brakes... then watch for the notorious "loser fly-by".... ;D

Now THAT is exciting!!!

Aloha

I've seen to many idiots driving Mustangs leaving car shows, now you have add bigger idiots in Broncos doing the same?
 

Local Boy

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May 23, 2016
Messages
191
Loc.
Mililani, Hawaii
I've seen to many idiots driving Mustangs leaving car shows, now you have add bigger idiots in Broncos doing the same?

Big assumptions being made here...You can just ask, if you are wondering the obvious...

Private property...private land owner...

You know...we do have race tracks here in the islands...

No need for insults Brutha...

BTW: I've seen the same idiots...and just shake my head...

Aloha
 
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68ford

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Dec 26, 2004
Messages
2,710
I've seen to many idiots driving Mustangs leaving car shows, now you have add bigger idiots in Broncos doing the same?

Accelerating in a straight line and then slowing down at 85 miles an hour and putting emphasis on not going past 85 sounds a hell of a lot safer then the douchebag guys trying to do a burnout in a mustang with a hundred people standing on the sidewalk next to them. That was a terrible comparison.
 

.94 OR

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I've never been in that much of a hurry to go to Starbucks.
 

68ford

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pcf_mark

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The duration is a little more than I thought would have worked but WOW does it come alive! The bigger valves and head work surely made a difference. What is the transmission? This is what I like - specs and results!
 

68ford

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Dec 26, 2004
Messages
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The duration is a little more than I thought would have worked but WOW does it come alive! The bigger valves and head work surely made a difference. What is the transmission? This is what I like - specs and results!

C4 with just a quality rebuild with good parts. Same for the d20. All done in 2003. I was in college. Was all done somewhat cheap. That why no alloy heads or performer rpm or Victor Jr intake. I did spend the whopping 150 bucks extra to balance the stock crank and rods to a 1/4 gram haha No raised stall speed. Was affraid, all my buddies we're fighting trans temps racing in the desert so I geared the axles low instead. Never below 3000 on the freeway but it works ok. Overall set up design with no intension for rocks actually works ok for what it is.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bs4OSHFgoA0/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1b7qjf60edgdy
 

68ford

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Dec 26, 2004
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Let me know if the thread is being high jacked haha
Hoping more people chine in with large displacement stroker information. My new 438 W is sitting next to my race truck just waiting for me to commit the 2 days it takes to get it in the chassis.
 
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rcmbronc

rcmbronc

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No Hi Jack. Great to hear the comments.

Last night went well. I made a shim for the Dizzy so that is all good. Set the dizzy and locked the timing at 25 degrees. Put a timing light on it and dead solid. Started it up and idles great. Maybe a bit high at 990 rpm but idles well. So far no leaks or drips. The slight knock I was hearing is the fan touching the shroud when I lean over the radiator. Pretty excited.

I did add a starter solenoid but still does not work. Need to figure out why not getting power from switch but not a huge deal int eh entire scheme of things. I can now actually start finishing up putting it together and drive it. Still need to figure out steering.

Also need to look at my display. I have a tablet in the truck with Torque Pro on it. Need to see how I can modify that program to get some better data.
 

DirtDonk

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Nov 3, 2003
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48,265
How do you have things wired?
I was running on about how you should have a standard relay on the fender and all, but I forgot to add that doing this alone would not help the starter work. Because the way you had it before, without the relay, the starter should still have cranked. So something is definitely not getting juice, like you say.

Should be easy to test which areas. Like you say it's not the end of the world after all that you've got done already.
If you can jump from the battery side to the small "S" post and the starter cranks, then you know the wiring from the relay to the starter and solenoid is proper. The fault then would be that you're not getting power in START over the Red w/blue S wire. Or whatever color you have. Purple/Violet if it's an aftermarket harness other than Painless.

If jumping the battery to the S post does not solve the issue, then there is trouble in paradise and the wiring scheme and individual parts need looking into.

Good luck.

Paul
 
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