Toggle switches for ignition, headlights, wiper

[Viperwolf1]

Hey Viper, are the relays you mention on the headlight switch the same that are needed for an H4 conversion or would I need 2 sets of relays (4 total)?

They are the same. You don't need any more.

 

[Viperwolf1]

I fixed the diagrams in the 1st post and added key wire functions.

 

[mnido]

Thanks !

I very much appreciate your help on this Viperwolf ! You definitely know your way around a wiring diagram. Thanks!!!!

 

[mnido]

I've had a couple requests for toggle switch replacements for ignition, wiper and headlight switches over the last year so here are some diagrams.

Ignition switch: Biggest pro is ease of use. Biggest con is ease of theft. Fairly simple circuit to construct and everything should work as before with the exception of the brake warning light during cranking.

Headlight switch: A tougher circuit to simplify with a single toggle. It requires headlight relays. Everything should work the same except for the dash light dimmer. It would be on full brightness whenever the park or head lights are on. The relays will help brighten your lights if you're not using them yet.

Wiper switch: Another complex circuit. A relay is required to provide the PARK function which was built into the original switch. A separate momentary switch is needed for the washers.

Viperwolf, my first of many questions is (and this will show my lack of experience in interpreting wire diagrams): on the new headlight toggle diagram, regardless of either ON position of the switch will the headlights, instrument, running lights, feed to brake and dome work ? I think the answer is yes because they are tied together at the switch, right ? Next question or concern: I plan on installing the relays on the core support next to the battery and want the constant 12 v to be connected to the battery with the 30 amp fuse, is that cool ? Next question: will this setup be adequate for my H4 halogen headlights ? Next question: my 20/30 amp relays have one other hook up which is 87a, what is its purpose if used ? And finally: I have a stock dimmer switch and the configuration of it matches your drawing, does 15 red-yel go to the top lug, and 85 from the relay go to the left and right lug on the dimmer ? Thanks !:

 

[Viperwolf1]

on the new headlight toggle diagram, regardless of either ON position of the switch will the headlights, instrument, running lights, feed to brake and dome work ?

Brake and dome will work in all 3 positions. Instrument and running will work in both ON positions. Headlights will only work in one ON position.

Next question or concern: I plan on installing the relays on the core support next to the battery and want the constant 12 v to be connected to the battery with the 30 amp fuse, is that cool ? Next question: will this setup be adequate for my H4 halogen headlights ?

Yes.

Next question: my 20/30 amp relays have one other hook up which is 87a, what is its purpose if used ?

87a is a normally closed contact. It opens when the relay is activated.

I have a stock dimmer switch and the configuration of it matches your drawing, does 15 red-yel go to the top lug, and 85 from the relay go to the left and right lug on the dimmer ?

Yes.

 

[mnido]

Thanks Viperwolf !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[idus25]

Ok so I got everything wired or so I thought. Everything works fine as long as I don't use the bright lights switch. When I click on the bright lights they come on and go off. However, the headlights no longer turn off via the new toggle switch. The park lights do go on and off. I had to disconnect the negative cable on the battery. Then I connected it again and everything ran as before.

What have I done wrong?

Thanks.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Ok so I got everything wired or so I thought. Everything works fine as long as I don't use the bright lights switch. When I click on the bright lights they come on and go off. However, the headlights no longer turn off via the new toggle switch. The park lights do go on and off. I had to disconnect the negative cable on the battery. Then I connected it again and everything ran as before.

What have I done wrong?

Thanks.

Sounds like something that could happen with the old headlight switch breaker. Take a good look at the wiring of the headlight relays and dimmer switch. Should be no power to terminal 30 of either relay with toggle set to off.

 

[jondokken]

Getting ready to tackle this as well, but want to be certain I've got a grasp on it before I start tearing everything apart. Is there currently ANY fuse in-line, on wire 25 (BLK-ORG), prior to the headlight switch? If there's no existing in-line fuse, would it make as much sense just to run a new wire, constant-hot (fused per diagram) to the switch to supply power?

 

[Viperwolf1]

Getting ready to tackle this as well, but want to be certain I've got a grasp on it before I start tearing everything apart. Is there currently ANY fuse in-line, on wire 25 (BLK-ORG), prior to the headlight switch? If there's no existing in-line fuse, would it make as much sense just to run a new wire, constant-hot (fused per diagram) to the switch to supply power?

Just the stock fusible link near the starter solenoid.

 

[jondokken]

Finally got around to doing this today. Thank you Viperwolf1, the information you provided made this project a lot easier than anticipated.

 

[idus25]

I've had a couple requests for toggle switch replacements for ignition, wiper and headlight switches over the last year so here are some diagrams.

Ignition switch: Biggest pro is ease of use. Biggest con is ease of theft. Fairly simple circuit to construct and everything should work as before with the exception of the brake warning light during cranking.

Headlight switch: A tougher circuit to simplify with a single toggle. It requires headlight relays. Everything should work the same except for the dash light dimmer. It would be on full brightness whenever the park or head lights are on. The relays will help brighten your lights if you're not using them yet.

Wiper switch: Another complex circuit. A relay is required to provide the PARK function which was built into the original switch. A separate momentary switch is needed for the washers.

Hey VW, Couple questions...I'm using a Painless Harness. Can you explain:

1. 284 red "feed to brake light sw" & 53 blk-blu feed to dome/map light" connections?
2. 54 grn-yel "12V from fuse 4" & 40 blu-wht "feed to cigar lighter" connections?

The way I've translated your schematic to the Painless Wiring it looks as though I will have two hots connecting on question #2 as painless has it's own circuit for cigar lighter.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Hey VW, Couple questions...I'm using a Painless Harness. Can you explain:

1. 284 red "feed to brake light sw" & 53 blk-blu feed to dome/map light" connections?
2. 54 grn-yel "12V from fuse 4" & 40 blu-wht "feed to cigar lighter" connections?

The way I've translated your schematic to the Painless Wiring it looks as though I will have two hots connecting on question #2 as painless has it's own circuit for cigar lighter.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

These circuits are based on the original Ford harness. Ford took some shortcuts to make the harness simple and cheap to produce. The Painless harness is much more extensive and the circuits are more logically laid out. Don't use these diagrams with the Painless harness.

 

[idus25]

These circuits are based on the original Ford harness. Ford took some shortcuts to make the harness simple and cheap to produce. The Painless harness is much more extensive and the circuits are more logically laid out. Don't use these diagrams with the Painless harness.

Thanks, I really appreciate it..I am over my head when it comes to wiring...So I can just leave off the 284 + 53 & 54 + 40 connections as it pertains to the new headlight toggle?

 

[Viperwolf1]

Thanks, I really appreciate it..I am over my head when it comes to wiring...So I can just leave off the 284 + 53 & 54 + 40 connections as it pertains to the new headlight toggle?

Yes, probably. I can't say for sure how these diagrams would work with the Painless harness until I can sit down and analyze it all.

 

[jmhend]

These arm some mil spec locking toggles I use in my Bronco.

Very cool idea Phil..

 

[idus25]

I've had a couple requests for toggle switch replacements for ignition, wiper and headlight switches over the last year so here are some diagrams.

Ignition switch: Biggest pro is ease of use. Biggest con is ease of theft. Fairly simple circuit to construct and everything should work as before with the exception of the brake warning light during cranking.

Headlight switch: A tougher circuit to simplify with a single toggle. It requires headlight relays. Everything should work the same except for the dash light dimmer. It would be on full brightness whenever the park or head lights are on. The relays will help brighten your lights if you're not using them yet.

Wiper switch: Another complex circuit. A relay is required to provide the PARK function which was built into the original switch. A separate momentary switch is needed for the washers.

In the new headlight toggle jpg...what do you mean grn-yep and blu-wht stay connected individually??

Thanks.