Toggle switches for ignition, headlights, wiper

[lonicus]

Hazard Light switch:
What if you just used a 3 contact SPST and combine all the wires into one and connect to a single contact? Would that burn something up?

It wont burn anything up, but it would fuse all the blinkers onto a single circuit, making them all blink when you used the turn signal in either direction.

And that might confuse people as to which way your planning to turn.

It might also make them blink when you hit the brakes. Even more chaos!

 

[Viperwolf1]

I think this may work, if I have the diode placed correctly, this would prevent the STOP signal from backfeeding into the TS. I think..

Something like this.

 

[NGABronco]

These arm some mil spec locking toggles I use in my Bronco.

Dad gum Viper, you ain't got no place for your radio speaker now!!!!%)%)

Great info on the wiring, thanks!!!!;D;D;D

 

[Broncobowsher]

Something like this.

I have done that and it works well.

 

[new to bronco]

Has anyone used the arc control panel from Jegs in a bronco? I installed one in my drag car was so easy all relays and fues are built in you can get them in 4,8, or 12 switches the 8 runs about 250 dollars plug one wire and your done.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Dad gum Viper, you ain't got no place for your radio speaker now!!!!%)%)

I got 4 others replacing it. I thought about keeping the stocker for use with the CB.

 

[Pa PITT]

Good Stuff there ViperWolf .. My thought was since those stock type headlamp switches always burn up so fast . Would that Dorman switch be a better switch too last longer.
I think I've put 3 stock headlamp switches in my Bronco in the last 7 years. Also about as many dimmer switches.
.... Oh I do like those switches in the speaker grill. COOL.

 

[Viperwolf1]

The stock HL switches shouldn't be burning up. They have thermal circuit breakers in them. The breakers open the circuit when they get too hot from too much current. That may be what you've been experiencing.

Now it seems to me that nearly every EB has seen the problem of the headlights going out when the high beams are on for extended periods of time. That is the thermal breaker doing it's job. I think it was a poor design in the switch. Replacement switches are built to the same specs so that flaw is inherent to them too.

The best fix for this problem is to add relays for the headlights. You end up with headlights that will not turn off when you use them and they are much brighter. Two relays, a fuse and some wiring is all you need to set it up.

 

[patterdale]

I already did the electronics instructor thing. Long hours and not very challenging. I prefered to blow crap up and break things.

My kind of person and miuch more fun.

 

[Viperwolf1]

You can do away with the diodes if you use DPDT switches. If the switches are pinned
12
34
56

1 and 5 are park lights
3 and 4 are power (if fused seperatly you could loose park or headlights without loosing the other)
6 is headlights
2 is not used

Same wiring will also work for ignition/accessory. Just replace park lights with accessory and headlights with ignition.

I finally got around to modifying the diagram for this.

 

[rustbucket]

VW, what program do you use to draw the schematics? Do you know of any good, easy to use programs that don't cost an arm and a leg?

 

[Viperwolf1]

MS powerpoint. Sometimes I use MS paint.

 

[Thunder26]

How do the brights work with headlight circuit? Would I need a seperate switch?

 

[Viperwolf1]

How do the brights work with headlight circuit? Would I need a seperate switch?

The dimmer switch controls the two headlight relays. When the dimmer sends power to the low beam wire it turns on the low beam relay. When it sends power to the high beam wire it turns on the high beam relay. When the headlights are off no power is sent to the relays and both are off.

 

[KyleQ]

Funny, when I did my EFI swap I elected to run most things off some toggle switches to avoid factory wiring.


I used the top button for cranking, the blue switch for my LED light, the top red for my power steering cooler, the bottom red for my ignition on and the reversed green switch is for my fuel pump. The actual key only turns on the alternator and the fuel gauge (thinking of putting the fuel and ignition functions over to the key and using those two switches for my main hi/low fan options)

 

[sigepkat]

Not to resurrect an old thread, but I just stumbled on this and am wondering how to wire up a switch for the heater...Can anyone break it down for me?

 

[Viperwolf1]

Not to resurrect an old thread, but I just stumbled on this and am wondering how to wire up a switch for the heater...Can anyone break it down for me?

Heater circuit is simple. Low position sends current through the resistor for reduced speed. High position bypasses the resistor for high speed.

 

[sigepkat]

What size resistor would I need? Or would I just need a 3 position switch and the resistor is already in the system?

And what switch would I need?

 

[Viperwolf1]

The resistor is at the heater box. It looks like a stretched out spring, probably close to 100 watt capacity, and maybe up to 5 ohms. You need a switch and wiring that is rated for about 20 amps.

 

[sigepkat]

Hey Viper, are the relays you mention on the headlight switch the same that are needed for an H4 conversion or would I need 2 sets of relays (4 total)?