ZF/M5OD conversion driveshaft help

[Timmy390]

After several years and lots of research, I've started my M5ODR2 conversion and have a couple questions on driveshafts.

1. Do you keep the CV joints on the driveshafts for this conversion? Both my D-shafts have them.

2. Rather than ordering new driveshafts (I'm a cheap S.O.B) has anyone had their existing D shafts modified to work? Rear shortened front lengthened?

Tim

 

[EPB72]

After several years and lots of research, I've started my M5ODR2 conversion and have a couple questions on driveshafts.

1. Do you keep the CV joints on the driveshafts for this conversion? Both my D-shafts have them.

2. Rather than ordering new driveshafts (I'm a cheap S.O.B) has anyone had their existing D shafts modified to work? Rear shortened front lengthened?

Tim

Yes but not recently.. any driveline place should be able to lengthen/shorten and rebalance no problem..there going to want you to measure for proper length.

 

[Teal68]

I would retain the Double Cardan joints. I also would modifying the existing shafts especially if all the parts are still good.

 

[Yeller]

Rarely do I buy new shafts, almost always am recycling something on them. But I'm spoiled, drive shaft shop is next door to my office. Also second keeping the CV joints unless your able to get all of the angles happy to mitigate vibrations and have long joint life, unlikely even with stock height

 

[Timmy390]

Excellent info gents. My D-shafts are in good shape..........New D-shafts (online) are $400 each plus shipping (not sure what the local shop charges) so I expect modifying the old ones has to be cheaper.....maybe half the price?

Local shop is 30 miles away but I've had dealings with them before balancing my 69 Mach 1 shaft and they were very helpful.

Tim

 

[tk1218]

If you order directly from woodys it’s 329 shipping and tax included

I had both of mine custom made by woodys, had clearance issues on the front drive shaft with the bc bracket

 

[Timmy390]

Measured today. I need to add 4 inches to the front and remove 4 inches from the rear.

Taking them to the driveshaft place tomorrow to see what they say

Tim

 

[bigmuddy]

Measured today. I need to add 4 inches to the front and remove 4 inches from the rear.

Taking them to the driveshaft place tomorrow to see what they say

Tim

Please post up pricing. I am going to have to do something similar with my 4r70w/Atlas install soon.

 

[Timmy390]

Please post up pricing. I am going to have to do something similar with my 4r70w/Atlas install soon.

Sure thing....I will. I didn't get them to the shop yet. Got to messing with the crossmenber I built and making a few minor adjustments to the shifter openings after getting everything installed. Then blew it all apart to weld up the holes in the tunnel from the old floor shifter. just got sidetracked........

Tim

 

[Timmy390]

So dropped the shafts off today. $150 for the front and $150 for the rear plus tax.

Saves me a few bucks over new ones......

Tim

 

[Apogee]

That's about what Six States charges locally to retube a shaft, assuming good ends and slip yokes. That said, Tom Wood's Custom Driveshaft will typically get my business due to their technical experience combined with excellent customer service. I'd give Shawn Wood 5 stars for his customer service and patience in answering all of my questions concerning my axle swap, pinion offsets, etc. Here's a good link to driveshaft basics if you're not sure what you should run given the application:

Most EB's will work best with double-cardan shafts front and rear due to the short wheelbase and higher operating angles.

Just a side note, but -4" in the rear and +4" in the front on my rig would make my shafts almost the same length...I'd play with that a little and see if I could make them interchangeable so that you could use your front shaft as a spare for the rear if you had to in a pinch.

 

[Timmy390]

That's about what Six States charges locally to retube a shaft, assuming good ends and slip yokes. That said, Tom Wood's Custom Driveshaft will typically get my business due to their technical experience combined with excellent customer service. I'd give Shawn Wood 5 stars for his customer service and patience in answering all of my questions concerning my axle swap, pinion offsets, etc. Here's a good link to driveshaft basics if you're not sure what you should run given the application:

Most EB's will work best with double-cardan shafts front and rear due to the short wheelbase and higher operating angles.

Just a side note, but -4" in the rear and +4" in the front on my rig would make my shafts almost the same length...I'd play with that a little and see if I could make them interchangeable so that you could use your front shaft as a spare for the rear if you had to in a pinch.

All good points.....

They looked over the shafts and deemed them good to modify meaning everything was in good shape.
Tom makes a quality product for sure. I'm just on a budget and save where I can. $800 vs $300 means $500 on other projects The shop I'm using worked on my 69 Mach 1 shaft years ago and I've had no issues.
Both front and rear have double-cardan joints
I keep hearing/reading about with this conversion the front and rear come out the same or very close. I've measured like 10 times with everything installed and my rear comes out to 30 1/2 and the front is 27 1/2. 3 inches difference in my book isn't "very close" unless were talking horseshoes and grenades I guess I could have shot for the middle and it work?

Tim

 

[Apogee]

Three inches is a lot...you might be able to accommodate both applications with a long-travel slip yoke, but it's probably not worth the expense for something that may never throw a shaft.

That said, I needed a front driveshaft for my 2014 F250 quick before the last blizzard here in OR, and I picked up a 1350 double-cardan shaft that was ready to run from a local wrecking yard for $85 and it worked great...ran it for about 500 miles that weekend through whiteout conditions at times and never a hiccup. Rebuilding the 1350 double-cardan might have fixed the issue if I could have gotten the rebuild kit and assuming no hard parts needed to be replaced, but I couldn't get the Spicer center ball rebuild kit, and I would have been into joints and that kit for more than the whole shaft from the wrecking yard.

 

[bigmuddy]

So dropped the shafts off today. $150 for the front and $150 for the rear plus tax.

Saves me a few bucks over new ones......

Tim

Thanks Tim, that is what I am hoping for as well.

 

[bronkenn]

When I did my M5OD switch I also moved the rear axle back one inch. My driveshafts ended up being the same length.

 

[Timmy390]

And I'm still waiting on drive shafts. Really holding things up.

Tim

 

[DirtDonk]

Wow, a whole month seems like a long time for Driveshafts. Probably not unheard of, but must be a busy place.
Or they’re stuck trying to find the right size tube because they were out of stock.

 

[DirtDonk]

And I have to ask because I don’t remember if you have any other discussions about it. But did you measure for your new shaft length at ride height and with corrected pinion angles?

 

[Timmy390]

And I have to ask because I don’t remember if you have any other discussions about it. But did you measure for your new shaft length at ride height and with corrected pinion angles?

They said their all backed up due to no one wanting to work....go figure. They have 9 shafts in line and couldn't tell me where mine was due to "the man" being at lunch. I'm going back over there Monday to get a more definite answer. I didn't think about parts not being available. Might be a factor.

Yes and no on the ride height and pinion angle. Kind of "winging it" on the angles. Engine and trans are at the same angle as before the swap and can lower the trans some if needed. I'm running double cardan joints on front and rear and have shims in the rear. The angles did increase due to the 4 inches of additional length of the trans and adapter. Hoping I can compensate if needed.

Tim

 

[jamesroney]

Wow, a whole month seems like a long time for Driveshafts. Probably not unheard of, but must be a busy place.
Or they’re stuck trying to find the right size tube because they were out of stock.

A MONTH!!! Let's think about this. $150 for the service. That's $75 for the work, and $75 profit. That means it's about 1/2 hour of labor. So you are waiting a month for a 1/2 hour of labor. bummer.