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check your cap and rotor, look for faint little black marks, signs of spider arcs, since spark is always gonna take the path of least resistance. Or open the hood at night and check for any other arcs, distributor cap has failed me twice in about 2 years, common for me, lol

check the local scrap yards, ive got a good one near me where they sell EVERYTHING. Picked up a few hinges for all kinds of stuff, good stainless ones are available, theyre relativly cheap, but youve gotta scour through a yard

Im pulling off the dashpad to clean up the dash, and build a diamond plate replacement for it, and i cant get the screws on the back of the pad. I know your supposed to fold down the windshield, but somewhere during the broncos life, before she was under my control, the windshield was...

I run the same 36x13.5x15 with a 12" rim and it works great. Tires run good in everything, much better than the sx's. They arent wearing as quickly as ive expected, but ive also been rotating all the time. They are smooth, and pretty quiet compared to some beat up old sx's

I definitly checked the obvious, or what is obvious to me i guess, not shroud, full of coolant, but i dont think thermostat is opening up, im sure you guys are right and its a simple fix. I havent checked the timing, but didnt fool with the distributor at all. Ill get something done early this...

How about a rechargable maglight with a sturdy mount on the rollcage. Wire it and you have a tough, dependable source of interior and exterior light. I was gonna mount mine vertically, level with the windshield on the rollcage. Ive got the tach mounted on the cage, so hiding wires should be...

I just replaced the carb and intake, and everything went very smoothly, but now when sitting at a long light the temp jumps up to about 220, runs about 180 while driving. I wasnt sure which way the thermostat went in during the reconstruction, so could i have put the thermostat in backwards?or...

ive got 15x10 with 5.5 backspaceing, and the new 36x13.50 iroks, 5.5 lift and hacked out fenders, dosent rub at all even at full flex. which tires are you looking at, these iroks are real nice, and arent wearing that fast, in relation to how soft they are

ive got a stock 3 core radiator on my 71 302, and it cools decent until im offroad, or stuck in traffic for a while. But it wont fully hold water, the top 3-4 inches wont stay full and completley trashed the top few rows. If you touch them lightly with your finger, they flake off. Im thinking...

ive got a 5.5 inch lift, drop pitman arm, drop trac. bracket, and bumpsteer is still terrible, i run 15.50 wide tires, and im stepping down to a 13.50, how drastically will this help, or what else can i do to eliminate the problem? ive already replace my drag link about a year ago, and recently...

sorry if im hijacking the thread, but has anybody seen the metal dash pad replacment, that was hinged and had a cargo area in the passengers section, i just got my hands on some diamond plate, and was thinking of building one, any pics, dimensions or ideas would help, thanks

ive got the yellow 71 in daytona, there are also a few more guys near me i talk to sometimes, one really hot red one, a few more closer to stock, and another one ive been watching being built, im sure i could talk all them into going, but count me in for sure in daytona, cant drive too far, but...

when ever im in the sand, and try to reverse from a standstill, the rear end shakes bigtime, or when im backing slowly up a steep hill. what would help this, i have single shocks, could a set of traction bars help? or anything else??

ive got a 5.5 inch lift, and the steering is pretty sketchy, i already installed a new adjustable drag link, and im thinking about my next step, mabye a drop bracket for the track bar? sounds easy enough, and ive heard different outcomes from it, also how bout a new steering shaft, or anything...

has anyone installed a twin stick for a t shift, with a three speed shifter on the floor? pics would help, but where do the sticks come up through?do they come out the same hole as the stock shifter? ive just never seen this setup and need an idea before deciding on what to do, thanks

kwspony, i used your diagram, and when it was all hooked up, only one headlight would go on highbeam at a time, while the other was on low, then they'd switch when i would hit the selector. i re checked all my work and its all right, has anyone else had this problem, and how do you fix it????

hey kwspony, could you show me that diagram?

i am converting to an apc h4 headlight system, and i have heard about the relay to get more power, and a brighter, stronger light. Ive been looking at some wiring diagrams, and the max capacity is a 50 watt headlight, but the conversion bulbs are 55, and i was wondering if a relay would help...

i had the same problem, then i replaced my drag link, and it tightened the wheel up drastically. I got the adjustable one which makes the install super easy, but ripping the old one off the tie rod takes some sweat

ive got a 5.5 inch susp lift and 35" sx's i could email you lots of pics