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It will help but point the nose up and that all goes out the window

Imo if doing coilovers you need an antirock sway bar as well.

Barnes is in the middle of recovering from Helene. Not sure how bad they directly were hit but the area they are in was devastated.

10”. It doesn’t take as much as you would think. We reused the stock mounts on the frame and mounted the axle end as close to the caliper as reasonable for easy installation. You need flex for stability, controlling the axle, and leveraging the torque to your advantage is the key. It does droop...

Whether I make them or by them this is what I Typically use from Barnes or Ballistic, ect. Making them isn’t too difficult with a piece of 3x3 or 3x4 box tube. When we were counting brackets we missed those so we used some that I had on the shelf from who knows where or when.

Pitman arm gap is fine, the arm, washer and nut are in place and the thread protrudes from the bottom of the nut. Looks within spec to me. It does have more gap then most, but if it’s tight it is good.

Needs to be fairly close, otherwise it won’t align with the bushing on the track bar. The better aligned it is the longer the bushings last too.

@nvrstuk yep rockinhorse is correct. You are behind😂

Got a buddy that does 3d printing? Cup holders switch panels, even shifter boots. My secret source has been playing with flexible filaments for a while. Anything is possible.

That is how my bronco is built. I wish I had used more round tube in the lower chassis, but rectangular tube is sooo easy to work with.

I really like Quick Performance. Their work is done in house and is well done. The Speedway unit makes me nervous, for the price it is too good to be true, less than the cost of the parts. Couple of things you need to require in order of importance. 1: Daytona pinion support, 4.56 gears with...

What if it was part of the plan??🤣🤣🤣🤣 Not in the bronco… I’ve driven until it rolled on purpose, reversed to right itself to either make an obstacle or line up for the next one🤣

Keep drooling over the blue tube truck

That being the case I would do the upper control arms in place of the wrap trap. It will give the same results, and keep that linking it thought stirring by not being something that needs to be redone. It is very easy to add 2” to the length of the upper arms when you do the lowers😉

we aren't that far apart in the tech department 😂 the vertical vs horizontal phone thing comes up couple of times a year. I stumbled on it by accident, how we accomplish amazing things.... by accident :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

There is a build thread and instagram links in @strebel 's signature. If you are on your phone turn it to landscape and you will be able to see the links.

I too believe they are dry, I happen to like them to be sealed up. Mostly keeping water and crap out causing corrosion. As for lubing the splines I don’t feel that is that big of a deal, Heeps were that way for a long time with a weep hole that let all sorts of junk in there without any real...

Your welcome. Wasn’t meant as a correction just being clear and did understand what you were asking. We all do it, spelling, punctuation, auto correct you name it. Been following your build, it’s going to be nice!

RTV is an appropriate sealer for those surfaces.

Your welcome. My guess is a cut seal on the spool valve. On full hydraulic steering if there is resistance in the steering column it will self steer, so it could be something putting the torsion bar in a bind inside the spool valve causing it to think it is being told to turn.