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First off, the damper timing ring only displays timing marks, if it slips, it only makes it hard to time the motor with a light, the pork chop, or balancer portion of the damper is keyed to the crank snout, and can't move. I would bring into question the flex plate , should be 28oz, or other...

pirce of cake Here's an old trick I used to use during my Ford dearlership thrashing days. Using a shallow15/16" socket on a long breaker bar, socket on the damper bolt, rest the breaker bar handle on the drivers left side frame rail, ......bump the starter....

Since the motor's fresh, and sitting for so long, I'd prime the pump 'til you have oil pressure, turn the motor over by hand.....I'm betting it'll feel smooth, free, and perfectly normal. I for sure wouldn't spray any crap in fresh cyl's. Anything but motor oil insulates the rings from...

That plug goes on the TVS (temperature vacuum switch) on the drivers left rear of the intake manifold. If you're using an after-market manifold, and an after-market air cleaner housing, toss it.....or put it on E-bay!!

New "C" bushings always seem too tight, or too big. Notice the bolts are still long enough to start. Run 'em tight, let 'em squish. Just make sure you have the upper, lower, front, and rear bushing properly oriented around the axle.

Yep, now we're talkin; check the track bar bushings. Super easy to do....turn the s/wheel back and forth about 45 degrees, if the front end moves instead of the wheels, get someone under there, and see where for sure all the movement is.

That for sure is a full circle seal, gotta pull tranny....good news is you don't have to mess with pan, rear main brg. Depending on how your rig is rigged, it might be easier to pull the mo-tex

I think I'd opt for grinding the welds, that small amount won't weaken the shaft at all. Grinding the yoke would definetly weaken it, causing it to "open" up under heavy load. Ideally, I'd recommend tweaking the front diff, and transfer case. ...might lose a little caster..I've run as little...

...loosen the belts, push 'em out with a screwdriver. Push on the side w/o register. If you get a tight one, cut off a small nail with a head big enough to stop at the oil hole, put it in the oil hole so the head doesn't stick out far enough to hit the block, spin the crank by HAND to turn the...

Are you using original guages? I've seen the constant voltage regulator for the guages make them a little less than accurate.....usually causes all the guages, except ammeter, to read low. I'd try a manual oil pressure guage to determine if you actually have an oil pressure problem.

I wouldn't put new lifters on that old cam.

Hey BroncoTim, I've got a good 3spd. doesn't grind, or pop out of any gear from an EB, not a thing wrong with it. Still has adaptor hsng. attatched. Come get it, you can have it!

Good pic or not, it's for sure a C-4.

I'm running AOD's in both my 77EB, and my 50 Willys PU behind a warmed over Windsor. I used '88 model trannys, got the cores at a boneyard for 75 bucks, and did the O/H myself. The '88's have the updated valve bodies, and upgrades in the tailshaft oiling system, especially in the govorner...

totally, and completely

......ya gotta wonder about the witless wonder who actually buys that abortion...