I should know more in a few days on what I have. I did a cursory teardown on it a few years ago and brought the heads home etc. The short block is at work.
I just know that I paid less for the whole engine and some really nice extras than the heads were worth used. He wanted it gone.
It was a credible story. Guy can't do mechanical work, pays a shop to build the 347 and install it. Loved driving it, lots of power etc. but due to distances and so forth the gas was eating him alive so he paid someone else to swap in a 4BT.
Lotta paying going on there......
It is most likely going to be installed in a Fox Mustang for a couple of years before I swap it into my 69 Bronco.
The 347 can be a high rpm mustang screamer or a torquey thing based on using the correct parts for the vehicle and use you intend. First you need to figure out compression ratio as that will play a big role in the cam you choose. It not all about lift and duration. LSA and centerline come into play as well. Next you need to figure out where in the rpm range you want this engine to live and produce power then you can start picking cam, heads, intake, fuel delivery, gears tires, trans and torque converter.
The 347's lighter crank and rotating assembly makes them rev quicker than a 351 based engine. The long stroke and more cubes does give them ability to make great torque compared to a 302 and be effecient if built right.
I have a mild 347 made to look and sound stock at idle. I'm losing a little top end and mid range power with my combo but the stock look and low rpm torque were important to me. Running a SCAT rotating assembly with forged slugs. I agree cheaper Chinese parts than a full race kit and would look for better crank and rods on future build but so far I have hammered on this with no issues.
For me I did a roller cam to maintain low rpm torque and still build good power. 35-349 comp cam. .512 lift at the valve. 1.6 scorpion roller rockers. If I did it again I may try the 35-308 or custom lunati grind. 9.6:1 comp with cast iron GT40 heads for pump gas. Bc 1 5/8" headers. Mild 2 into 1 exhaust. Aluminum head would help the entire power range and allow more compression but would not look stock. Wieand dual plane intake with 1.12 4100 vacuum secondary carb on 1" phenlic spacer. FI tech may pick up some HP but carb is tuned well and I have no bog or hesitation. Small primaries keep fuel mileage at 14+ on highway if I keep it around 65.
This engine will lug the truck up a steep driveway in second gear at 1000 rpm with no bucking and sounds pretty stock at idle Peak torque appears to be in the 2600 rpm range. Geared with 4.11s to help engine in that range and it's very happy on the highway in fifth gear. Software runs agree with rpm range. Rev limiter is set to 6250 and the little vac sec 4 barrel, gt-40 heads, and dual plane have no problem getting to the rev limiter very quick in first and 2nd gear.
I'm 15,000 miles in and very happy with my combo. I did have an oil consumption issue that was valve guide seals damaged on install by head rebuilder and not the result of rod angle issues, ring flutter issues with the 347. Use good rings. Make sure the final hone grit matches your rings and final hone dimension matches the type of piston. Check ring gaps and everything should be happy.
I would love to dyno mine but if I had to guess based on my experience it's close to 400 ft lbs torque at that 2600 rpm and 350-385 hp around 4500 rpm. Very fun in a Bronco.
The point think about what you want and match all the parts to how you want to use it. Not how a mustang guy wanting 7000 rpm power or a rock crawler guy wanting 4BT torque would build it.
Good luck.
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