OP
OP
Community
Message Forum
Photo Gallery
Event Calendar
Book Reviews
Bronco Wallpaper
Bronco FAQ
Link Back to CB!
Photo Gallery
Event Calendar
Book Reviews
Bronco Wallpaper
Bronco FAQ
Link Back to CB!
Buy / Sell
Bronco Tech
3 Arm Wiper Setup
Fix Motor Mount
Roll Cage Braces
Throttle Body 65mm
Wheel Alignment
Heat Riser Replacement
Vent Window Repair
Center Console Mount
Straighten Bumper
Ford 6R80 6 spd
More Tech...
Fix Motor Mount
Roll Cage Braces
Throttle Body 65mm
Wheel Alignment
Heat Riser Replacement
Vent Window Repair
Center Console Mount
Straighten Bumper
Ford 6R80 6 spd
More Tech...
-
Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.
408 & Vintage Air/BCB AC install
- Thread starter lars
- Start date
OP
OP
coolant system air bleed
Something that always bugged me with my previous 5.0 engine got worse with the 351W/408/what ever. The upper radiator hose, what with an OEM style radiator and Explorer 5.0 front dress, is the high point in the system. Air in the coolant system is not your friend, unless you like corrosion. Some cars with similar systems have an air bleed expressly to remove air from said high point. Simple. Warm up engine. Open bleed port, expel air.
I bought a 1.5" x 45 degree stainless mandrel bend. Already had some 1/8" NPT stainless weld bungs. Drilled/welded bung into tube. Substituted it into the upper radiator hose. I happened to have some stainless high temp/high pressure Schrader valves. I'd prefer a 1/8 NPT x -3AN fitting with a -3AN cap but I don't have one. Schrader valve does the job, at least for now. Worked as hoped for.
And, thanks to the "Highlander" hood, it clears.
Something that always bugged me with my previous 5.0 engine got worse with the 351W/408/what ever. The upper radiator hose, what with an OEM style radiator and Explorer 5.0 front dress, is the high point in the system. Air in the coolant system is not your friend, unless you like corrosion. Some cars with similar systems have an air bleed expressly to remove air from said high point. Simple. Warm up engine. Open bleed port, expel air.
I bought a 1.5" x 45 degree stainless mandrel bend. Already had some 1/8" NPT stainless weld bungs. Drilled/welded bung into tube. Substituted it into the upper radiator hose. I happened to have some stainless high temp/high pressure Schrader valves. I'd prefer a 1/8 NPT x -3AN fitting with a -3AN cap but I don't have one. Schrader valve does the job, at least for now. Worked as hoped for.
And, thanks to the "Highlander" hood, it clears.
ntsqd
heratic car camper
I know how big the bag is, how many pounds are you up to now? 
What Brian said!
What Brian said!
Tell me more about the rad over flow bottle? Store bought or hand made?
71 CA Bronco
Sr. Member
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2015
- Messages
- 764
Something that always bugged me with my previous 5.0 engine got worse with the 351W/408/what ever. The upper radiator hose, what with an OEM style radiator and Explorer 5.0 front dress, is the high point in the system. Air in the coolant system is not your friend, unless you like corrosion. Some cars with similar systems have an air bleed expressly to remove air from said high point. Simple. Warm up engine. Open bleed port, expel air.
I bought a 1.5" x 45 degree stainless mandrel bend. Already had some 1/8" NPT stainless weld bungs. Drilled/welded bung into tube. Substituted it into the upper radiator hose. I happened to have some stainless high temp/high pressure Schrader valves. I'd prefer a 1/8 NPT x -3AN fitting with a -3AN cap but I don't have one. Schrader valve does the job, at least for now. Worked as hoped for.
And, thanks to the "Highlander" hood, it clears.
Great idea Lars. I was just thinking there has to be a better way when I had to burp mine on my inclined driveway and jacking up the front end with a floor jack. I have heard horror stories from not getting the air pockets out and super heating isolated sections of the motor. I imagine this is even a bigger deal on a newly built/tight setup.
Looks like you're getting close.
Hahahahahaha... hey there Mr. TC buddy, I "might" have said that but I didn't (did I)? so don't get me in trouble if I'm not there to defend myself!!
Like I need you to help get me in more hot water...
Like I need you to help get me in more hot water...
OP
OP
Canton. Embarrassingly expensive but I wanted the bling. It's designed to take pressure so it has a regular radiator cap. Overflow tube on the radiator filler neck is plumbed to the bottom of the can so it will push coolant back into the radiator when it cools off.
This:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctr-80-200r
Yes Canton is very proud of their Overflow tank... But, if it works...
Thank you for the info...
OP
OP
It was an easy step beyond the Canton pan. Yup, got one of those too. 7 quart capacity with filter- probably not necessary in principle but I'm glad to have the extra contents. It occurred to me to track down an original Bronco 289/302 pan and a 351W pan and graft them together as Duff's used to do. But I sat still until the feeling went away. Would've delayed the project even longer.
OP
OP
Mine is set up as a recovery/surge tank, rather than overflow. I capped the port on the side, and it has a 13 pound cap on it. So as the system cools off, in theory coolant will be sucked back into the radiator.
There is probably some optimum height for it, and someone on here probably has that answer. Mine is "I don't know." But my hand was forced by the brackets on the tank I bought and the height of the core support. A cylindrical tank with clamp-on brackets that can be moved relative to the tank would be more flexible as far as mounting.
I previously had a cheap aluminum tank that was just set up as an overflow tank, so this is an experiment for me.
ntsqd
heratic car camper
As Lars knows I'm about to venture into the land of coolant surge tanks with an LQ4 swap into my (grandfather's, gave it to me) '73 Chevy SB-SS.
Downside to surge tanks is that you can't add coolant when the system is hot.
Upside is that I never did need to do that with the old ribbit diesel's surge tank system.
Both of these systems have little hoses that make them supposedly self-purging of air. I think that's the feature of this design that I like the most.
Downside to surge tanks is that you can't add coolant when the system is hot.
Upside is that I never did need to do that with the old ribbit diesel's surge tank system.
Both of these systems have little hoses that make them supposedly self-purging of air. I think that's the feature of this design that I like the most.
OP
OP
Purty.
I'm still fighting coolant leak issues, the latest being because my 23 year old much-abused Modine radiator finally gave up. Did a little drive, parked it in my hangar, returned the next morning to find yet another puddle being fed by a steady drip out of the bottom drivers side tank where it is splitting. That was a week ago. I don't feel bad, it served me well and survived a lot longer than I expected, despite having had sticks and stones and more smashed into it.
Broke the piggy bank again (more like, smashed to smithereens) and ordered a replacement from US Radiator the same day. According to their website they are 2-4 weeks out so I have some time to obsess about other stuff.
reynard101
Bronco Guru
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2006
- Messages
- 1,098
Did you get the full tilt boogie Copper/Brass Optima Tripleflow w/4 core? That's some $$$.
ntsqd
heratic car camper
Link?
Never heard of that.
Never heard of that.
Similar threads
