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73 Daily Driver Build Thread

OP
OP
Dex

Dex

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2012
Messages
141
Loc.
St. Louis
Bottom of Body Primed

Flipped the body over (very carefully with a lot of moving blankets). Painted all seams and any pitted areas with POR-15. Today, got everything wiped down again then sprayed everything on the bottom with primer. Also got all the body parts laid out to start body work.
 

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OP
OP
Dex

Dex

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2012
Messages
141
Loc.
St. Louis
Undercoating

Got the bottom of the tub sprayed this weekend. Sprayed the engine compartment, trans tunnel, and under the hood with Lizard Skin Ceramic Insulation. Then coated everything with Raptor Liner including the bottom of the tub, inside front fenders, and under hood. The texture is pretty smooth, I think I sprayed it at around 60 psi and added as much harder as recommended to keep it smooth and not to bumpy. I am very happy with it so far, looks great and it is supposed to be some tough and durable bed liner (at least that is what I have read and heard about it).
Also got the first coat of body filler on the grill, tailgate, dash, and doors.
 

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jlylec

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
891
Got the bottom of the tub sprayed this weekend. Sprayed the engine compartment, trans tunnel, and under the hood with Lizard Skin Ceramic Insulation. Then coated everything with Raptor Liner including the bottom of the tub, inside front fenders, and under hood. The texture is pretty smooth, I think I sprayed it at around 60 psi and added as much harder as recommended to keep it smooth and not to bumpy. I am very happy with it so far, looks great and it is supposed to be some tough and durable bed liner (at least that is what I have read and heard about it).
Also got the first coat of body filler on the grill, tailgate, dash, and doors.

Man you're doing such a nice job. I'd love to do this one day! What's your layout plan for that dash?
 
OP
OP
Dex

Dex

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2012
Messages
141
Loc.
St. Louis
Sprayed Raptor Liner in the Interior

Seam Sealed the tub Saturday, sprayed the interior with raptor liner today. Also got the back of the tailgate and transfer case access cover plate sprayed today as well. 4 Raptor Liner kits later, got everything I wanted to covered
 

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OP
OP
Dex

Dex

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2012
Messages
141
Loc.
St. Louis
Anybody Else Make this Mistake

I screwed up, I didn't realize that you can't have the shocks in front of the coil with James Duff Heim Steering. Plus I need to put a track bar rise bracket on. I really want to run the steering over the knuckle and change the shock mount on the c cap to get it above the linkage. It is all fixable, but I really want to keep the shocks in front of the coil but don't know what to do about it, any suggestions on what to do, any pictures would be helpful?
 

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RT

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 29, 2003
Messages
1,034
Can't tell you what to do about the shock mounts , but you'll want to look into getting some longer bolts so you have the shank rather than the threads going through the heim bodys. the threads alone will be looser and won't last long .
 
OP
OP
Dex

Dex

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2012
Messages
141
Loc.
St. Louis
Thanks for the observation, its just loosely together so I can turn it and move it around right now, the bolts are right, its just that it is not over the knuckle right now so the unthreaded portion that goes through the heim is in the knuckle
 

RT

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 29, 2003
Messages
1,034
Thanks for the observation, its just loosely together so I can turn it and move it around right now, the bolts are right, its just that it is not over the knuckle right now so the unthreaded portion that goes through the heim is in the knuckle

Gotcha, but the unthreaded section should be long enough to go through the heim and what it's attached to, or the same loose fitment will happen. The threads will stick out , you can cut them or leave them as is. If the shank turns out to be a little long you can build up a couple washers.
 
OP
OP
Dex

Dex

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2012
Messages
141
Loc.
St. Louis
What Track Bar Rise Bracket would you guys recommend me to use to allow me to run my steering over the knuckle? Also do I have to take the track bar drop bracket off to use the rise bracket? Any help is greatly appreciated
 

mudwisr2

Full Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2008
Messages
241
Loc.
Memphis, TN
You'll need to to remove the drop bracket. You can probably fab a riser up pretty easy by the looks of some of the work youve done.
 
OP
OP
Dex

Dex

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2012
Messages
141
Loc.
St. Louis
More Primer

Finished up the body work on the body parts and got them sprayed with epoxy again then four coats of 2k primer. Now time for more block sanding. Still working on the rear quarter panels and windshield frame on the tub.
 

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OP
OP
Dex

Dex

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2012
Messages
141
Loc.
St. Louis
Little More Progress

Been doing a lot of body work and finally sprayed more epoxy on the body and doors. Also made a new steering stabilizer bracket to fit with the heim steering linkage, the stock one on the left was to small. Moved the rolling chassis back to my detached garage to start installing what I can on the frame and motor and redo the front shock mounts and weld the track bar riser bracket on to the axle.
 

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01Dudley

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Messages
974
Loc.
Knoxville
Sorry to show up late, but yes you will need to move the shocks behind the coil spring or get really creative. The track bar clearance / riser is up to you. Are you doing the riser to gain clearance? If thats the case you could just flip the bolts around. With the a lock nut on the track bar you will not need the cotter pin set up.




I screwed up, I didn't realize that you can't have the shocks in front of the coil with James Duff Heim Steering. Plus I need to put a track bar rise bracket on. I really want to run the steering over the knuckle and change the shock mount on the c cap to get it above the linkage. It is all fixable, but I really want to keep the shocks in front of the coil but don't know what to do about it, any suggestions on what to do, any pictures would be helpful?
 
OP
OP
Dex

Dex

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2012
Messages
141
Loc.
St. Louis
Sorry to show up late, but yes you will need to move the shocks behind the coil spring or get really creative. The track bar clearance / riser is up to you. Are you doing the riser to gain clearance? If thats the case you could just flip the bolts around. With the a lock nut on the track bar you will not need the cotter pin set up.

I tried to move both shocks behind the coil but they will not clear the coil towers or the back of the shock hoop, the passenger side is closer than the drivers side. I can't figure out how to keep the dual shocks on the front
 

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OP
OP
Dex

Dex

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2012
Messages
141
Loc.
St. Louis
Track Bar Riser Welded On

Got the track bar riser mocked up after adjusting the radius arms to get the wheel base correct. Tack Welded it on then pulled the front axle out. Got it fully welded on. I think I am going to get a pair of extreme duty lower coil spring cups from Wild horses sometime, I am going to put it back together with the stock coil cups for now.
 

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OP
OP
Dex

Dex

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2012
Messages
141
Loc.
St. Louis
Great work! What's your wheel and tire combo? Your wheels are what i have in mind for mine.
Thanks, the combo I have is 33x12.50r15 Mud Claw Tires and
Series 8128 - Gloss Black Alloy Wheels by Pro Comp
 
OP
OP
Dex

Dex

Jr. Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2012
Messages
141
Loc.
St. Louis
Brake Lines and Gas Line Ran

Got the front end put back together after welding the track bar riser bracket on and ran all the ss pre-bent brake lines and the gas line. Finally can get rid of my mess of old brake lines and gas lines
 

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