Another EFI Won't start thread. FIXED

[needabronco]

I tested the coil again and come up with different resistance again. I also tried cranking the engine with a timing light to see if it would light, and it didn't. So I'm leaning toward a 'weak' or 'intermittent' coil problem. I'm going for another one and will post if it solved the problem.

 

[Nightstick]

I got an MSD/Streetfire coil from autozone for $38.99... The OEM ones aren't but a few bucks cheaper. Just FYI

 

[needabronco]

OK, I now have a great spark, and a rather intermittend injector firing, WTF? I'm fearing the eec is toast?

 

[Cali Orange]

Again no expert here but just trying to help. What about the TFI Module on the side of the distributor? Cheap to replace and when i had problems similar to yours one of my customers had an ex-FORD mechanic in his shop and he said they go bad and so he threw a new one on and it has been great ever since. just another idea.

 

[needabronco]

It has a brand new TFI module on it, the old one tested ok twice and bad once, so I replaced it...

As for the injectors firing I was able to see 2 faint flickers on a noid light then nothing. I'm using an RJM harness so there's no 10 point plug to check voltage on. Unfortunately in order to get the eec out from under the dash the glove box and cage have to come out (unless I there's a magic trick!).

 

[Viperwolf1]

Is it possible for a coil to have intermittent volgate problems? I tested it yesterday and had .7 ohms between the positive and negative connections and 8 ohms from positive to the coil plug. Today I still get 8 ohms between the positive and coil plug, but 0 ohms between the positive and negative?

That's a dead coil. .7 ohms is ok for the primary side but the seconday side should be 8K-12K ohms. Make sure the next one is grounded well.

 

[Cali Orange]

You should be able to test voltage at the injector by pulling the plug and using a voltage meter to check at each injector. Have you already tried that?

 

[Cali Orange]

I have no suggestion on getting your EEC out because i don't know how you mounted it. I have the RJM harness also but i mounted my EEC to the passenger kick-panel up high but i also removed the fresh air intake for the heater and welded up the opening since I rarely have the hardtop on I always have fresh air. Maybe if your EEC is on top of your glove box you could just remove the interior box of the glovebox??? Or do you have a Tuffy glovebox?

 

[Cali Orange]

I just when back to read your original post and noticed two things, one you stated you replaced the TFI and I suggested in a previous post to replace it so sorry about that, second you stated the battery is weak? how many volts do you have? maybe you need to throw it on a charger as that could be contruting to a weak voltage at the EEC and the injectors? I know the computer controlled engines are power hungry especially at start up...so I am told.

 

[av bronco]

I had the same glove box problem, had to destroy the glove box from the back, took half a day in 110 degree weather, my hands looked like I was trying to strangle a bobcat- still have bad dreams about it. as for the no start problem you need to check the fuel pressure at cranking, also my buddy is going thru this and we just found out his a9l was fried.

 

[needabronco]

The injector's have 12V at the red wire, they just don't seem to be firing regularly, or at all, I saw 2 light flickers then nothing... As for the battery it's right at 12V

The eec, is mounted on top of the heater box, the Tuffy glove box is blocking the eec from coming out, and the cage is blocking the glove box from coming out. The heater box won't come out unless I remove the glove box....

 

[jw0747]

My money is on a bad eec. My buddy's eb had the exact same symptoms. Everything was working fine ie. spark, fuel etc but it flat wouldn't start. We finally swapped eecs and it fired right up and ran smoothly.

 

[ransil]

check the replays.

 

[needabronco]

It's not the eec?

 

[redtail]

The injector's have 12V at the red wire, they just don't seem to be firing regularly, or at all, I saw 2 light flickers then nothing... As for the battery it's right at 12V

The eec, is mounted on top of the heater box, the Tuffy glove box is blocking the eec from coming out, and the cage is blocking the glove box from coming out. The heater box won't come out unless I remove the glove box....

You need 12.6 volts at the batt. otherwise things will not work as they should. charge or replace the dang batt and I bet it will fix the problem. better yet, barrow the batt out of a running car and put it in to test.

 

[Cali Orange]

I agree with redtail get a strong battery or put a charger on yours to jump the voltage up and try that first. It is a cheap test and it is always good to try the cheap stuff first. If that doesn't work it may be the EEC. Do you have a good source for a new EEC? If not there is a MUstang wrecker here where i sourced my motor and all related parts cheap and i can either give you his info or i can go by there and pick it out and ship it to you if needed.

 

[needabronco]

I put a borrowed spare eec in and it still won't start. I'm going to check the relays and then test the rest of the sensors.

 

[Viperwolf1]

The EEC ignores most sensors on cold start. I think only the ACT and ECT are used. I'd look at the EEC relay and fuse.

 

[EricLar80]

You know, at one time I had put a bronze dizzy gear on the distributor not knowing that it would eventually (quickly) wear down on my steel cam gear... It ran good at first, like crap once it started getting bad, and eventually it dies and would not start (like it was missing spark, which it was)... Of course, along the way I noticed I had to keep adjusting my advance.

Did you confirm that you are getting spark at all locations? Try taking the cover off the dizzy and verifying you cannot manually move the rotor inside.

Eric

 

[needabronco]

Eric, I now have spark, and 12.8V at the battery, the fuses are all good and the relays as near as I can tell are good. The dizzy gear is new and match's the cam.