Anyone having this FiTech Issue?

[68stang73]

This is great info. From what Bryce told me was both the butterflies are 1:1 which means if you adjust the front screw it adjusts the front AND the rear blades. Then just move the rear screw until it touches the blade.

 

[ChrisC74]

This is great info. From what Bryce told me was both the butterflies are 1:1 which means if you adjust the front screw it adjusts the front AND the rear blades. Then just move the rear screw until it touches the blade.

I have read that also lately - I had been working off of them telling me to get the idle set with the front one and then fine tune the IAC steps with the back. But that is what they told me last year and it has always been difficult to get it right.

I am to ask a dumb question. How do I know when the rear screw touches the blade? What do I look at? I may have the rear screw in too tight and may need to back that out and start over which is fine. If i start over - should I back out both screws or start with them turned all the way in?

In all of this back and forth with Fitech this week it turns out that since I have had the system for a year I have old software. So they sent me updated software to install which means all of my settings need to be re-entered.

Thx,
Chris

 

[68stang73]

Just back the rear out and adjust the front to get IAC make sure your idle is where u want it. Shut her down and wait for screen to go blank. Then fire her up and check to make sure IAC is still good. If so then look all the way down at the rear screw and find the end of it. Screw it in until it just touches the "cam" that is tied to the blades. Too much and it will throw IAC off again. Hope this helps as its what I did.

 

[ChrisC74]

Just back the rear out and adjust the front to get IAC make sure your idle is where u want it. Shut her down and wait for screen to go blank. Then fire her up and check to make sure IAC is still good. If so then look all the way down at the rear screw and find the end of it. Screw it in until it just touches the "cam" that is tied to the blades. Too much and it will throw IAC off again. Hope this helps as its what I did.

Cool. Thx.

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[work765]

Paul

Paul. Thanks for the heads up on the 400 at WH's! I pulled the trigger last week and one is headed my way.

 

[NYLES]

Question on orange fuel pump wire, Straight to pump no relay no fuses, just from 6 plug to pump...is that correct. Running inline pump

 

[work765]

Any of you guys have a list of stuff needed for doing the inline fuel pump?
A buddy recommend a fuel pump that is pretty quiet.
Now I just need to get the fittings and tubing, etc.

Maybe this info is in the instructions. (Fitech arriving this week).


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[bteutsch]

Initially I ran my orange wire straight to the pump. That's the way FITECH designed it. I had a problem with my FITECH harness melting at the connector(where the sub harness plugs to the main harness ), mostly the main power pin. The attributed the issue to a poor ground at the core support where I grounded the pump. After 2 harnesses, they told me to use a relay. No problems since. I don't know if the relay affects PWM, I've heard both ways.


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[.94 OR]

My orange wire runs straight to the FCC. Even though I set the pressure at 40 psi, the gauge still shows close to 60 psi and doesn't seem to fluctuate if I am watching it while idling.

 

[.94 OR]

Someone else mentioned having trouble with the fittings and the high pressure hose. I made a simple clamp out of scrap Oak to squeeze the hose below where the barbed fitting would extend, then clamp that portion in the vice. I had to notch the other piece to fit behind the shoulder of the fitting below the threaded collar on the 45° and 90° fittings. The straight fitting could simply be pushed on. Once lined up, I used 2 12" bar clamps, 1 on each side of the fitting, to squeeze the piece into the hose (after a drop of 3-in-1 oil.

 

[NYLES]

OK thanks guys haven't installed mine yet, I'm undoing some old wiring first it looks like a rat's nest, it's gotta go.

 

[NYLES]

What's the lil silver plug in the box for?

 

[ChrisC74]

What's the lil silver plug in the box for?

Blocks off the return port if you are using the fuel command center. If you are running a return you don't use it.

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[NYLES]

Got ya,,,...,,.

 

[DirtDonk]

Clever bit with the hose and fittings OR.

My orange wire runs straight to the FCC. Even though I set the pressure at 40 psi, the gauge still shows close to 60 psi and doesn't seem to fluctuate if I am watching it while idling.

Why are you setting it to 40psi when the recommended pressure is 58?
At least I think that's what it is. I seem to remember some discussions about that in the past few weeks. Was that you?

Paul

 

[bteutsch]

I think I was told the same thing except I believe it's was PWM to 40 or pressure to 40 at idle. Per Bryce, if you have a command center it maybe helps keep heat down some by idling the pump when it's not in demand. That's from my fuzzy memory.


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[.94 OR]

I followed the setup instructions for the FCC and it said to set the pump at 40#. FiTech could save a bunch on their phone bill if they had a decent set up and tuning manual to go along with the product.

 

[work765]

What do I need to do with my manual fuel pump? Do I just unbolt it and that's that?

Also. Sorry this might be a dumb question: but my coil has this thing on it(white/yellow cap connector). Does that mean it's going to a CDI box? If so, how would I determine which wire was the "tach out" that I would attach to the blue wire on the fitech?

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[NYLES]

What do I need to do with my manual fuel pump? Do I just unbolt it and that's that?

Yes take it out and but a cover plate over the hole.

 

[NYLES]

Mine wont crank, flooding itself out before it starts?