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Best oil type?

GregJ

New Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2021
Messages
3
Hi all. I am new to the early Bronco and just picked up a new-to-me 1974 a few weeks ago. I have some small leaks coming from the oil pan gasket and transmission pan gasket (C4) and plan to replace the gaskets. I want to make sure I am using the right fluids for my application.

My Bronco has an original 302 v8 that was rebuilt 4k miles ago and bored .30 over and a fairly stock comp cam was added. Living in AZ the weather is usually warm. I was planning to use 10w40 engine oil and Type F fluid for the C4 automatic.

Are these the right types to go with in your opinion? Also, since the engine has been recently rebuilt, is it OK to go with a synthetic like Mobil 1 or should I stick with conventional oil?

Thanks in advance for all of your help!!
 

gr8scott

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 1, 2011
Messages
1,847
Welcome! You'll be okay with conventional 10w-40 engine oil. The C4 takes Type F, and the transfer case takes straight 50 engine oil.

EDIT: Got 500 miles on the rebuilt engine yet? If not, might want to use 10W-30 for the first 500 miles. Also use some zinc additive
like Lucas break-in oil.
 

LSharpNM

Full Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2020
Messages
164
If you are running non-roller lifters I would highly suggest running diesel oil since it has zinc in it unlike most modern gasoline-application oils. You can also buy zinc additives, and expensive "designer" oils with zinc, but diesel oil is cheap and readily available.
 
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GregJ

New Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2021
Messages
3
Thanks for the quick replies! I have no idea what kind of lifters are in the engine following the rebuild, so should I plan to use some zinc additive as a precaution?

The engine has a little over 4k miles since the rebuild so I don't think I would need any special break-in oil.
 

Timmy390

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 1, 2011
Messages
5,664
Loc.
Conway, AR
15W-40 Rotella T4 in my Bronco (roller cam) and in my 69 Mach 1 (non roller cam). Zink...more the better IMO.

Tim
 

MS73HD302

Jr. Member
Joined
Aug 8, 2017
Messages
128
I run Lucas hotrod and classic car oil. Plenty of zinc, cheap insurance for an old engine imo
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
35,064
Fresh motor? Good tight bearings. You can run some thinner oil. I would not be afraid of 5W30.

Thicker oil makes more oil pressure. But also remember that pressure is the resistance to flow. A thinner oil may have a little less oil pressure, but it will flow better. Actually getting more oil to more places with a lighter oil. Unless you know the engine was built loose I would pass on the heavier oil.

Was the transmission rebuilt? If it was check with the builder. Most of the rebuild kits these days are designed around Dextron/Mercon ATF and not the Type F.

As for the transfer case, well proven that 90ish weight gear oil works just fine. Ford had a thing about using motor oil in transmissions where the same transmission used in other applications uses gear oil. Some historic thing probably going back to the model T that did use the same oil in both.
Oh, the 50wt motor oil is the same basic viscosity as 90wt gear oil. There are different scales. Much like Celsius and Fahrenheit. Both are in degrees (weight) but the scaling is not the same.
 
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GregJ

New Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2021
Messages
3
Thanks everyone. It sounds like I can go with a lighter weight oil, but will definitely either add Zinc additive or look for an oil with it.

Regarding the transmission, it was also rebuilt at the same time but that was 5-6 years ago and I am the third owner since the restoration. I have no idea who rebuilt it. Based on that how would I know whether to use Type F fluid or Dextron/Mercon? If I choose the wrong one will it ruin the trans? Should I take it to a specialist to determine?
 

ugly74

Bronco abuser
Joined
Apr 17, 2006
Messages
2,847
Definitely Type F in the transmission.

as to the zinc additive, I've used nothing but STP in all my flat tappet lifter/cam engines, and have never had a problem.
 

ransil

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 6, 2003
Messages
8,123
Check out project farm on YouTube he tests oil a few times

Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
 

reamer

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 20, 2008
Messages
1,249
Just had my C-4 rebuilt last month, by a speed shop rebuilder for New England and Lebanon raceways, He said Use nothing But Type F... even with new parts Stay with the "grabby" Type F..
 

Pa PITT

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 15, 2005
Messages
11,268
Loc.
Stephenville TEXAS
I was worried about that answer of using Type F.
I believe in my town there would be more builders now using Dextron . But I wanted to add don't mix the fluids .
SO YOU OTHER GUYS THAT are more up to date than I am today. But if I were adding fluid I'd want to the trans .. I'd want to drain it 100% & add all new fluid ..
I MIGHT EVEN WANT to go to someone who has the machine that uses a blatter to exchange all the fluid completely . B&G Chemicial sells this machine . We had one at the dealership when I worked there ..

Someone who understands what I'm talking about .expand on swapping the fluids so as to not mix fluids.
..... It's just been about 15 years since I messed with that . & Every thing I have now is DEXTRON OF Diesel Standard trans .
 

chuck1022

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2017
Messages
576
Engine oil- I have found that it all leaks out the same from my 302 V-7 1/2 (1 piston has low compression)

After my tranny was rebuilt...they specifically said not to use Type F. Dextron/Mercon only. Everytime I change my oil...I siphon 4 qts out ...and add 4 fresh..No problem 3 years later.
 

jamesroney

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Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2007
Messages
1,823
Loc.
Fremont, CA
If you are running non-roller lifters I would highly suggest running diesel oil since it has zinc in it unlike most modern gasoline-application oils. You can also buy zinc additives, and expensive "designer" oils with zinc, but diesel oil is cheap and readily available.

This is a very time relevant post. If it were written before 2016, it would be absolutely correct. But since we are past 2016...it is no longer current.

Diesel engine oil was revised in 2016 to the API CK 4 standard. Gasoline engines got the API SN revision. Both limit the the critical additive found in ZDDP. Yes, there are replacements, and yes...Phosphorous is not the only additive, and yes, zinc is part of the package.

Your engine was designed to run API service grades that has an additive package including 1200 PPM of phosphorous. That designation was SH, and there have been 5 "upgrades" since. In 2001, the oil upgraded to SL, and reduced to 1000 ppm. Then in 2004, version SM was invented, and it was further reduced to 800 PPM. The most recent revision was 2016, at SN, and it is still at 800.

I am not here to argue the validity of the need for the proper detergent and additive package for your engine. I am not here to tell you that flat tappet camshafts started having premature wear starting about 2004. I'm also not here to tell you that Comp Cams had a significant rash of defective cams at about the same time. What I will tell you is that if you run any lubricant that is not specifically approved by the OEM for your engine...you run the risk of consuming all of the additional bandwidth and safety factor of the design, and then EVERY design feature suddenly becomes important.

I can also tell you that there is no OEM that will certify any new oil for use in a 50 year old engine. So while the API will tell you that they are backwards compatible...the empirical evidence is overwhelming that the API is not always correct. Ford's recent de-certification of CJ 4 oil is a timely example.

What that means is that if you run oil made to SF or SG...then cam hardness, lifter hardness, spring pressure, viscosity, age, RPM, break in period, etc are less interesting. If you run SL or SM or SN...then suddenly spring pressure, break in, lifter metallurgy, and cam hardness become important. I will guarantee you that NO ONE that rented a Ford passenger car from 1967 to 2021 every bothered to respect the break in rules.

I get paid to replace flat camshafts in vintage cars. And I personally run Lucas racing oil in my flat tappet, low performance, low compression Bronco. I also run it in my Shelby. But for my Tigers, I run a roller cam.
 

savage

Contributor
Bronco Nut
Joined
Apr 18, 2007
Messages
2,482
Loc.
Renton
I been running Lucas hotrod and classic car oil in my 74 for years, it has all the good
stuff in it for your older classic engines.
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
In these old "flat tappet" motors, I feel safe using plain old SAE 30. That's just how they were built.
Tranny fluid type? You need to do your best to find out what the last owner used. The worst thing you can do is to mix the two types. If you can't find this out, do a complete drain and use one or the other.
 

Speedrdr

Contributor
Not so wise OLD owl
Joined
Nov 27, 2017
Messages
1,351
Loc.
Paris, MS
Jumping in with an observation. Had a ‘70s EB 302 built to 320 HP (at least that’s all the builder would admit to) and he said all he ran in anything EXCEPT his drag cars was DELO 400 30 weight oil. I ran it for 4 years until a friend convinced me to part with it and had no problems.
Fast forward to now. I’ve got a 347 stroker with roller cam and roller rockers and not really sure WHAT oil would be best. Could I trust the DELO 400 oil in this engine?

Randy
 
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