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BP 347 has left the chat

Dover

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Oct 26, 2025
Messages
15
This thread may change my plans of buying their 347. It was between that or a complete rebuild of my 351W... But if this is the way their warranty and customer service acts… might as well take a chance on a random machine shop. Good luck!
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
37,060
I'm more worried about the box of new parts and being tasked with installing them yourself. If you literally followed there instructions and just put the new parts on without taking the whole engine apart and cleaning all the debris out first, it WILL fail again. Then they will likely say you didn't install the parts correctly. I find it pretty poor service to task you to tear the whole engine down, get it cleaned, put it back together (with the box of warranty parts). How much more will you find when you tear it all the way apart? Will Blueprint honor any future warranty on there engine they tasked you to rebuild for them?

It would be one thing if you bought a kit engine that needed assembly in the first place. But you bought a complete engine so you didn't need to build it in the first place. Kinda defeats the purpose of buying a crate engine.

An aspect of warranty work that many don't think about, part of the quality feedback loop. When a part comes back under warranty, what went wrong? IF Blueprint isn't taking warranty engines back to find out why they fail, what is to prevent them from making the same problem again and again? It isn't just getting the engine fixed, it is finding why it failed and putting that back into the loop to prevent it again. If Blueprint is ignoring this aspect of there warranty, they will never fix there problem.

There are a few other options. It could be a problem they already found and know what it is. At which point there is no need to look at another one. Or the one off bad one, but that is risky to assume that it is just a single bad one and not the start of bigger issues.
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
37,060
This thread may change my plans of buying their 347. It was between that or a complete rebuild of my 351W... But if this is the way their warranty and customer service acts… might as well take a chance on a random machine shop. Good luck!
I would do the complete rebuild of a 351W for a Bronco.
 

Jakedog

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 25, 2010
Messages
1,010
Have you confirmed which parts failed?
Are they just going by your description of the problem and throwing parts at it?

If I were the builder I'd want to know what failed, and why it failed.
 
OP
OP
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steelworker77

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Feb 29, 2024
Messages
175
Screw it not waiting. I didnt want to say anymore due to the fact I was figuring they were lying about shipping the parts. You really cant make this up.

The warranty qc supervisor that I finally got to take my call thursday says the metal in the filter and bottom of the pain is no big deal and nothing to be worried about. They see this on performance motors. The motor does not need torn down any further and parts just need to be replaced. No worry about why anything failed at all. Says the trunions in the rockers that are seized solid most of times you just smack them with a hammer on the side and they free right up!

No care whatsoever on why it failed just throw some parts back in it and it will be fine. Run it for 500 miles then change the oil is what I am told.

I emailed yesterday to see when parts are shipping and nothing. Called later in the day and the tech will no longer speak to me or answer my emails who is assigned to my file. His name is Joe. The head supervisors name is Jason. Jason calls me 30 minutes after they had closed and states he has an update and a few questions.

States parts shipped and I will have them Tuesday. Then says he has been made aware of a thread on a bronco forum and that I am not happy about how they are handling the situation. I kept my composure and bit my tongue because I dont believe they shipped the parts. I explained I was disappointed that I had to call everyday for 3 weeks to finally be able speak to someone that could actually do something as well as why wouldnt you want the motor back after seeing the pictures.

I advised him that anyone that has seen the pictures said not to touch it and it needed to go back.

He disagreed and stated they just didnt know what they were looking at. There is nothing wrong with that motor that would require them needing it back. Simple part failures. Stick it back together and it will be fine. Doesn't need torn down any further.

For anyone considering a blueprint engine this is what you are getting. You might save a few bucks over some of the other companies but you will regret it if there ever is an issue which if you actually put miles on the vehicle you will. The guys that praise there motors on Facebook are the people that put 1000 miles a year on.

I fully expect my warranty is now shot and I am out the 8k+ I spent.
If they just would have took the engine back and fixed it properly regardless of time frame I would have been happy.

What I am hoping at this point is they lose a good amount of business after people read this thread.

What I am more than likely going to do now at this point is tear it the rest of the way down, clean it the best I can, and stick it back together and hope it lasts until end of November.

I was planning on parking it in December to install a new harness and go the fuel injection route as well as a few other things and at that point hopefully have a new motor to install from a reputable builder.

I was told they would be emailing over all the torque specs/sequences for everything but betting that doesnt happen...

Again run dont walk away if your thinking of using a @BluePrint engine.
 

gnpenning

Contributor
Bronco Slave
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Dec 26, 2011
Messages
2,597
Loc.
I have more questions than answers.
This is very disappointing to hear. Anyone can be a good seller when things are going well, it's when things go bad that you really find out who you are dealing with. Anytime metal has gone through a engine the need to properly flush out EVERY oil passage is critical to the success of the repair. A company that down plays that has no business doing motors. They are essentially telling you that cleanliness and being thorough are not a concern for their products. Nothing they put out needs to be clean in their opinion. Makes me wonder how high their failure rate really is. I think it was Robbie Layton that did a video of their manufacturing plant on utube. From negative responses I've heard in the past they needed some positive publicity.

Years ago I bought a crank from a company and called and talked to the owner to verify for my application. Turned out it was wrong and they wouldn't take it back! My feedback got deleted and explained why there was zero feedback on his site. Lesson learned.

We had a local machine shop that after doing heads on ohc motors they were having cam seizures. They weren't cleaning oil passages and telling the customers that was their job to check. Sort of, you should trust but verify. Needless to say after more than a few shops having similar issues there business model caught up with them and closed the doors.

BP, you failed miserably. Do the right thing and replace this motor.
 

Dude 713

Jr. Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2019
Messages
148
Loc.
Conneaut Lake Pa.
My buddy just bought a complete engine from this place and is really happy with it. Can't say how they back their warranty because he hasn't had any problems, but it might be worth checking them out.
 

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bax

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Aug 22, 2005
Messages
14,549
This picture has me suspect on the entire build. See where the valve was contacting the roller tip of the rocker. Thats way off the center of the valve stem. No one checked this? This motor was sent out with the valve train geometry off this much? Their quality control leaves a lot to be desired. My guess is the company is used to failure and has become good at passing the buck onto the customer. I would tear that engine all the way down and go thru it all, piece by piece.
 

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bronco italiano

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I did some research on automotive machine shops in York , PA area.
-There are quite a few shops for you to interview and visit the shop.
-Be prepared, the price you paid for the BPE will be much lower than what you will pay a legitimate machine shop. But you got nothing but garbage/headaches from BPE.
-Yes BPE I hope you are reading this.
 

Soylent

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Sr. Member
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May 4, 2016
Messages
683
Loc.
California
I did some research on automotive machine shops in York , PA area.
-There are quite a few shops for you to interview and visit the shop.
-Be prepared, the price you paid for the BPE will be much lower than what you will pay a legitimate machine shop. But you got nothing but garbage/headaches from BPE.
-Yes BPE I hope you are reading this.
What’s your opinion on one of the Ford factory crate motors versus a good machine shop?
 

bronco italiano

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Messages
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A competent machine shop is going to take the time to check all the clearances, quality of the parts, and back their motors. That is what you are paying for. Last time I checked Ford has sold their soul to Chinese-made parts, rolling the dice. I want to know who is machining and assembling my motor, not an assembly line worker that has to pump out quantity.
 
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steelworker77

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Feb 29, 2024
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Well parts didnt ship as supervisor said they did on Friday. I just got an email from Fedex saying label was created. So obviously not arriving tomorrow as I was told. Not a massive deal. The bigger deal is I got the packaging list and its missing various gaskets as well as the camshaft. I asked the operator that answers since the tech assigned to me will no longer take my calls/answer my emails if the missing parts can be included in the shipment that hasnt left yet. Said they will have to look into and get back to me.
I can only laugh at this point.

James I did ask earlier on if the warranty could be restarted because of all this and was quickly told no.
Yes the motor got very tight. Slow to rev then when I went to restart it it turned over very slowly and fired off then thats when I heard the knocking. With the heads off it spins over fine. Not sure what caused the bent pushrods other than the seized rockers??? There is no evidence of the valves hitting the pistons anywhere.
 

Soylent

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OK, let's talk about "crate" engines for a bit. All projects of any kind require compromise. That is a fact of life. The biggest problem is that Ford, (or really any business entity) is trying to satisfy a market segment, and not necessarily YOU. So the things that are compromised are interesting to some, and irrelevant to others. BUT some things are certain. And it makes sense when you think about it.

1. Ford wants to use Ford parts to build their Ford engines.
2. Ford camshafts are designed by committee... and are proven in the field to be "good enough."
3. Ford assembly techniques, clean room, and equipment is unrivaled. Their work instructions, training, manufacturing aids, and process checks are world class. Quality is Job 1. But Quality leads to reduction in variation. But this also leads to resistance to change. And you cannot have improvement without change. So you can conclude that high quality results in stagnation, and lack of improvement. There is an entire career segment of people who get paid to lie to management and tell them that isn't true, and "quality enables improvement." But it's backwards. "Quality prevents Improvement."

And THIS is the problem with Ford Crate Engines, and dare I say...Blueprint. But it's any corporate mentality. And I'm not blaming anyone. Believe me when I say that you want your Toyota Camry or F150 to have minimal variation, no experimentation, and you don't want guys on the production line "fixing things"

Now when we talk about Ford Crate engines, Notice that I didn't say "good." I said "good enough." I have thrown away more Motorsport alphabet cams than most people ever buy. Ford Camshafts are designed by committee, and I'm not sure that they are actually designed at all. I think they are made, and shipped, And once Ford gets one that "doesn't really do anything" it's a winner. Again, don't get me wrong. I'm talking about Ford Performance, or Ford Racing, and not Ford Production. It is NOT a coincidence that guys like Roush, and Yates, Shelby and Edelbrock, and Offenhauser get selected to parter with Ford. Watch the Ford v. Ferrari movie, and you get a taste of it.

So what you find is that a Ford Racing Crate engine has no soul. Everything is just slightly not good enough...and worse, when a vastly superior product is available...Ford will STILL use their catalog parts. We talked about camshafts, and I wouldn't use a Ford racing camshaft as a door stop. Same thing with heads. When AFR came out with their 165 heads, (or even better, when Twisted Wedge built their heads!) EVERYBODY at the track knew that the AFR heads were better. So any decent builder would START with AFR heads. Every decent builder except Ford, because of arrogance, hubris, and boot licking. Ford engines got SVO heads. So when you buy a Ford Racing engine, the FIRST thing you do is take it apart and build it over. Which kind of defeats the purpose.

Eventually Ford Racing got around to cloning the DOZE-6015-B Trans-Am block for all of their 8.2 deck builds, and that was a winner. It was the M-6010-Boss302 block, and came factory at standard bore, and with a 1 piece rear main, and a clutch pivot boss, 4 bolt mains, screw in freeze plugs, WOW. what a foundation. It took Ford about 20 years to catch up to the Dart block, and then it took Blueprint another 15 years to catch up to Ford. I am still convinced that the Blueprint crate short block is the best you can buy on a budget. Before they cast their own blocks, they were peddling .040 over "seasoned" blocks, and selling them for big money. I could buy a good used 87-90 5.0 HO shortblock for $300 all day long. And the factory forged piston HO block at STD was vastly superior in every way.

Again, anything I buy comes back apart. And then gets built. Because I am a stickler for balance, and my engines are balanced, and then balanced again with the junk. So yeah, I pay twice. BECAUSE I make my balance guy confirm bobweight, and balance the rotating mass, and then balance the flywhee, damper clutch. And yes, if I'm going to all that work...it's going to be forged. And it's going to be stroked to 327, and it's going to be neutral balance. AND it's going to get AFR's or maybe Edelbrock's RPM heads. And then you start to wonder why you started with a crate motor.

So if you need a foundation for your build, and you want it to run "good enough" and you are going to use it to drive your Bronco to Safeway...fine. It will run, it won't self-destruct, and it will look pretty. But if you want performance, value, and economy...well, now you are in no-man's land. Because EVERYBODY knows that you can't build a small block Ford and make big power. That ship has sailed. Anyone that tries to get more than about 1.3 HP per Cubic inch is just a moron. Stop now. If you want power, you need displacement. If you want power AND you want streetability, you MUST have VVT. VVT gets you up to 2 HP per cubic inch. (and yes, the Chevy LS has VVT, as does the Coyote.) Otherwise, if you try to make power in a small block...you end up here. Now if somebody wants to do something fun...Let's see some VVT on your SBF crate motor. (oh, wait...that would make it a gen 4 LS swap.)

I'm done.
Nice review. I had to decipher what the secret code VVT meant to understand it all. Actually I had to put my reading glasses on to realize it was VVT and not WT.
 

fordguy

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Jan 23, 2005
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“could buy a good used 87-90 5.0 HO shortblock for $300 all day long. And the factory forged piston HO block at STD was vastly superior in every way.”

I find the explorer blocks to be a great foundation for a driver. I am not looking for big numbers, I just want a solid motor with decent numbers. What brand crank do you run with a 327 striker?
 

bronco italiano

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Feb 1, 2004
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“could buy a good used 87-90 5.0 HO shortblock for $300 all day long. And the factory forged piston HO block at STD was vastly superior in every way.”

I find the explorer blocks to be a great foundation for a driver. I am not looking for big numbers, I just want a solid motor with decent numbers. What brand crank do you run with a 327 striker?
Honestly, old Ford parts are really reliable. All these new kits, unless you are willing to pay $$$$, are all suspect.
At the end of the day, you need: good parts/good machine shop/good builder.
My engine is a 306 with roller cam/forged pistons (because I wanted them and didn't need them), aluminum heads, mild larger TB, tuned ecm and it is plenty of power for me on a stock-ish bronco.
 

toddz69

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Nov 28, 2001
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11,205
Excellent treatise, @jamesroney! One slight edit - the 87-92 engines got the forged pistons - the hypereutectics started in '93 (some say late '92). I'm hoping I can nurse my '91 engine to 300K.....

Todd Z.
 
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