Checklist for initial start of a rebuilt engine

[admin]

I'm getting ready to fire up my rebuilt 289-2V for the first time and want a sanity check to be sure I'm not missing any steps:
(full disclosure, this is for my 1968 Mustang, but it would be exactly the same for my Bronco, so I feel no guilt posting this in Bronco Tech )

Fuel

• Carb was running fine when I pulled the engine, but I cleaned out the bowl, float, jets, needle and seat with liberal sprays of carb cleaner to get rid of any varnish
• Right before engine start, pre-fill the bowl w/ gas
• Fresh gas in the tank and manually pump some through at the engine bay side of the line to confirm no blockages or junk in the line
• Added a temporary clear fuel filter so I can confirm gas is pumping to the carb when I go to start the engine

Electrical

• New spark plugs (gaps checked), new wires and new ignition coil
• Fully charged battery
• Distributor dropped in to align rotor with plug wire to #1 cylinder while at about 10-12 deg BTC (already confirmed my new harmonic balancer lines up with "0" when #1 piston is at TDC on compression stroke)
• Confirmed good ground wires from battery to block, from block to firewall

Fluids

• Crankcase filled with break-in oil and fresh filter
• Right before I start the engine for the first time I'll manually prime it by spinning the pump shaft w/ a drill (did this already during engine assembly and verified oil getting to all rockers)
• Rebuilt C-4 transmission has 3 quarts in it now (torque converted wasn't pre-filled) so after the engine starts I'll add more as the converter fills up (8-9 quarts total)
• Rebuilt radiator filled with distilled water for break-in. Will top off as needed once engine starts and all the air pockets work their way out. My new t-stat has a hole to burp out that air, but I'll probably pull the temp sender and manually fill the intake manifold just in case.

Items I'll have on hand as I start the engine

• Oil pressure gauge
• Vacuum gauge
• Timing light (planning on needing to be about 10-12 deg BTC, vacuum advance plugged)
• Transmission fluid and coolant to top off as needed

Break-in procedure

• Immediate startup (that's the plan anyway!)
• Run for 20 minutes straight at 2,000-2,500 RPM (stock flat tappet, not a roller)
• Change oil immediately after initial engine run

Anything I'm missing?

 

[ared77]

"Items I'll have on hand as I start the engine"

Fire extinguisher

 

[gnpenning]

Someone should report you to the site administration .

Looks like you have a good list. I would add a temp gauge and a temp ir gun to the list. With the gun you can check each cylinders exhaust temps.

You didn't mention it but I would guess your son that has been helping will be there as an additional set of eyes and ears. You need a wrench so you can tap on the bumper or some place else to see his reactions

 

[DirtDonk]

Yeah, you just go ahead and post up any little 'ole thing you want to Jon. We're on board even if you ask about surfboard shops and surfing opportunities near you...


Another thing to have on hand. At least one (two would be better) helper to act as not only a second set of eyes, but a second set of eyes...
And ears, and to shout out "hey, what's this doing here" above the din of the engine running.
You running full exhaust at this point hopefully? Usually runs better, mixes the fuel/air better (less chance of overheating something) and easier to hear the warning shouts of "thar she blows" when the transmission modulator pops out the back.
Assuming you did not forget to put it in in the first place. Speaking of which, is this an auto or manual trans?

Plan on putting in a little more advance for the break-in after the first few moments. Helps the exhaust run cooler for awhile.
You running headers, or anything that's been coated with a nice expensive ceramic or powder coating? Don't want to overheat that on the first run!

Have fun, and stop for leaks.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Oh, and even though it sounds like you're going to be doing this, I wanted to highlight it anyway.
Pre-connect the timing light you're going to have on hand. This way if it does not fire up instantly, you can check for spark by watching the light and immediately stop cranking if it does not start.

Paul

 

[admin]

Fire extinguisher

Yes, good call. I always have one mounted on the wall of my garage, but I'll be sure it's ready to go.

I would add a temp gauge and a temp ir gun to the list. With the gun you can check each cylinders exhaust temps.

You didn't mention it but I would guess your son that has been helping will be there as an additional set of eyes and ears. You need a wrench so you can tap on the bumper or some place else to see his reactions

Thanks. I'll do that, although I don't know what a normal temp range should be for exhaust. Plus I know it will burn really hot for the first start as the rings seat. Guess I can just confirm all the cylinder temps are in a consistent range.

Yes, my son will be there. He'd kill me if we got this far and I started it without him!

You running full exhaust at this point hopefully?

Yes, full exhaust with factory manifolds. No telling if they'll leak a bit, but they're installed.

when the transmission modulator pops out the back.
Assuming you did not forget to put it in in the first place. Speaking of which, is this an auto or manual trans?

It's a stock C-4 automatic rebuilt by a local shop, so I hope nothing is popping off! But yes, the modulator is there w/ vacuum line hooked up.

Pre-connect the timing light you're going to have on hand. This way if it does not fire up instantly, you can check for spark by watching the light and immediately stop cranking if it does not start.

Thanks! Hadn't thought of that. I was trying to figure out how I could confirm spark before turning over the engine, but having the timing light hooked up will at least tell me instantly if there's spark or not.

 

[admin]

Have fun, and stop for leaks.

So this is one of my concerns. I know it's critical during break-in to have the engine start up instantly, then elevate the RPM and run for a solid 20-30 minutes. But what if there are some minor leaks? Or a clacking rocker or exhaust leak? Do I just ignore and power through the 20 minute run time? Or do I shut down and fix the issue, risking a partial break-in? (obviously if fluid is puking everyone or there's an engine fire I will shut it down)

 

[DirtDonk]

Yes, sometimes you don’t have a choice.
If you have a small coolant leak, you can let it go. If you have a tiny oil leak, you can let it go. But a bigger leak of anything, or any sign of overheating, such as a glowing red exhaust tube, just shut it down and let it cool down.
Find the problem, if any, then fire it back up and bring the RPM up.
I’ve done many break-ins in the past where I even shut it down on purpose two or three times just to include heating and cooling cycles in the 30 minute break-in.
With the sketchy quality of today’s parts though, I would probably just do a single break in procedure with no breaks.
Let the cooling and heating cycles begin after that.

But in the case of a real problem, just shut it down and then fire back up when ready.
Any kind of a fuel leak would probably qualify for that!

 

[DirtDonk]

Thanks. I'll do that, although I don't know what a normal temp range should be for exhaust. Plus I know it will burn really hot for the first start as the rings seat. Guess I can just confirm all the cylinder temps are in a consistent range.

Good idea to have a heat gun handy to check little areas individually, or exhaust temps at each port.
But diligently monitor the coolant temperature gauge as well.
Ideally, you’d like it to stay under 200° for a new engine, even though 240 might be your ultimate overheating point.
But on a break-in, I’d shut it down long before 240. I personally would try to keep it below 200, and for sure shut it down at 210 (if still going up) to let it cool.

 

[Johnnyb]

Yes, good call. I always have one mounted on the wall of my garage, but I'll be sure it's ready to go.

Thanks. I'll do that, although I don't know what a normal temp range should be for exhaust. Plus I know it will burn really hot for the first start as the rings seat. Guess I can just confirm all the cylinder temps are in a consistent range.

Yes, my son will be there. He'd kill me if we got this far and I started it without him!


Yes, full exhaust with factory manifolds. No telling if they'll leak a bit, but they're installed.


It's a stock C-4 automatic rebuilt by a local shop, so I hope nothing is popping off! But yes, the modulator is there w/ vacuum line hooked up.


Thanks! Hadn't thought of that. I was trying to figure out how I could confirm spark before turning over the engine, but having the timing light hooked up will at least tell me instantly if there's spark or not.

Who did you use to rebuild the C-4? I'm in Flagstaff and helping a friend with a major EB update and a new/rebuilt transmission may be in the cards. Nobody up here that I would trust. I've watched Kurt Strekler (SP?, Gold Canyon) posts on FB marketplace, but he is asking a ton of money for a rebuilt C4. Let us know how it goes!

THX,
-JB

 

[admin]

Who did you use to rebuild the C-4?

A&S Transmissions
2602 W Lone Cactus Dr E,
Phoenix, AZ 85027

I'll PM you with more details

 

[ba123]

So this is one of my concerns. I know it's critical during break-in to have the engine start up instantly, then elevate the RPM and run for a solid 20-30 minutes. But what if there are some minor leaks? Or a clacking rocker or exhaust leak? Do I just ignore and power through the 20 minute run time? Or do I shut down and fix the issue, risking a partial break-in? (obviously if fluid is puking everyone or there's an engine fire I will shut it down)

Yeah, it happens and if it does, you gotta just roll with it. I don't really think there is any sort of start/stop that's going to stop your pistons and cam from seating if you're using good break-in oil.

It's not gonna be more rocky than my first multiple starts... and mine seemed to all work out.

 

[Broncobowsher]

So when are you starting it?

I've always done the 20-30 minute warm up. The last flat tappet cam had different instructions, they wanted 2 15 minute fast idle sessions instead of one long one. Howards cams. It worked. Drove it for a couple of years before I sold it without issue.

Outside? Exhaust fumes can get pretty thick in a garage. Also there is the heat buildup. You can also water down the radiator (front of it) to help cool it. Break in tends to run hot.

Prime the carb? I have been using 2-stroke premix for years. There is some oil that gets left behind when you spill raw fuel on stuff. Normally gas cleans oil off parts, this just leaves a little oil behind. If things don't start right away and you have to come back to it there will be a little bit of oil. Helps I also keep 2-stroke premix around all the time (lawn equipment, motorcycle, etc.) If not at least put a little gas in the fuel bowl so you don't have to crank the engine to prime the fuel system. The lines and pump can prime as the engine runs on the fuel bowl.

How did you confirm it was TDC compression stroke and not exhaust stroke? Distributor 180 out is so common.

Have that case of ATF handy? You will want to add some right away. I don't care about getting the transmission completely full right away, but half full anyway. Want the pump pumping mostly oil and not mostly air. Typically I would overfill the fresh transmission a couple of inches. It will suck that down as it fills the convertor and it will still be super low once the engine starts running.

 

[admin]

My plan is to start it up tomorrow. I'll roll it out into the driveway for fumes. Good suggestion on hosing down the radiator if it gets too hot.

How did you confirm it was TDC compression stroke and not exhaust stroke? Distributor 180 out is so common.

I confirmed TDC during engine re-assembly (ie. my new harmonic balancer at "0" corresponds to #1 cylinder being TDC) but then confirmed I'm on compression stroke both by visually watching both valves being fully closed and measuring pressure in the cylinder w/ a compression tester.

 

[Broncobowsher]

I confirmed TDC during engine re-assembly (ie. my new harmonic balancer at "0" corresponds to #1 cylinder being TDC) but then confirmed I'm on compression stroke both by visually watching both valves being fully closed and measuring pressure in the cylinder w/ a compression tester.

I'm giving 50/50 on that being right. Did you turn the engine over to bolt up the torque convertor?
The more sure you have it right, the longer it will take to find you are wrong.

Or you really did get it right the first time.

 

[admin]

Other than the 2 methods I described I don't know what else to do to confirm.

There are only 2 TDC positions. The piston coming up on the exhaust stroke won't pressurize the cylinder because the valve will be open. On the compression stroke the cylinder will be pressurized.

 

[Speedrdr]

Following this as I’m kinda running into a similar situation.

Randy

 

[Johnnyb]

Following this as I’m kinda running into a similar situation.

Randy

I use a device called a Whistler which you thread into the spark plug and it whistles on the compression stroke so you know the Piston is on the way up.

 

[Speedrdr]

I use a device called a Whistler which you thread into the spark plug and it whistles on the compression stroke so you know the Piston is on the way up.

Where might a person find such a thing? Not that I’d use it every day…or even more than once, but I could certainly use one in about a week.

Randy

 

[Johnnyb]

Where might a person find such a thing? Not that I’d use it every day…or even more than once, but I could certainly use one in about a week.

Randy

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1748159763...d=link&campid=5335857059&toolid=20001&mkevt=1