Cooling truth...? Aluminum Vs 4 core

[NOTPRETTY]

If you had a 4 core high efficiency and went to an Aluminum....was it worth it?<br><br>I know Chuck sells the heavy brass radiator and understand his selling points, but I would love real world feedback. Anyone using his? What improvements in degrees?

 

[Explore74]

you are looking for the most bang for the buck, or simply the best period? Look at the # of fins per inch and the width and number of the cooling tubes. If it's copper/brass then take this for gospel that this your cooling area. Then if it is aluminum divide the number they give by about 1/2, then you are comparing apples to apples. Aluminum is roughlyu 1/2 as efficient at conducting energy as copper. Thats why you don't see aluminum wiring in houses anymore.(electrcity and heat, both energy) Oh yeah, electrolysis sets in quickly too with an aluminum radiator (dissimilar metals) so be ready to change your coolant often if you want it to last. I hope this helps. good luck!

 

[GRIZZLY]

I have a BC copper core and have been happy with it. It out performed my old Wild Horses staggered 4 core even before I put the new shroud back on.

 

[76Broncofromhell]

My old 4 core cooled better, but the Aluminum is tougher and lasts longer and was also cheaper.

 

[c2computer]

I love my Be Cool, I have never overheated since I made the switch.

 

[NOTPRETTY]

[quote author=GRIZZLY link=board=5;threadid=12300;start=0#91397 date=1039899220]<br>I have a BC copper core and have been happy with it. It out performed my old Wild Horses staggered 4 core even before I put the new shroud back on.<br>[/quote]<br><br>This is what I wanted to hear. I would like to know more about your set up. I am running the WH 4 core and still have heating problems. I run the SPAL 16" puller fan...which works better than the engine fan when crawling...BUT it is freakin noisy as hell. Beyond that I am running a stock 2 Barrell 302 bored over 30. Stock water pump. Timing is set right. I am not running the shroud, but I trailer the rig so crawling is the only concern. I am 135:1 final so I don't have to work the engine much when crawling...but I still get hot and have to stop on the 100 degree days.<br><br>What do you have? When were you heating up? How much drop did you get in temp with the BC Rad? Any info is good. Thanks in advance.

 

[chuck]

What size fan pulley do you have? It should be about 1" smaller than the crank pulley.<br> Also if you put a fan back on I would guess it will cool better too.

 

[GRIZZLY]

Chuck sells a high pitched fixed blade that's not on his web site. It is fairly noisy but bearable and moves beaucoup air. I am divorcing my tranny cooler and adding a separate cooler with it's own fan that will cool it along with my power steering.

 

[NOTPRETTY]

I have/had the pulley that is about 1" smaller than the crank. I have run the motor fan and the spal is best fan i have tried so far when crawling. I even tried a flex fan...which was an improvement but not much. The problem is likely old corroeded water jackets. It's not like I get to 235 or anything...or boil over. But I do have to stop and let it cool. I would just like to not have a noisy fan and still cool affectively. Was considering the Aluminum or your fatty brass radiator. I was also considering gutting the front and putting is a non-stock rad that is significantly bigger. Fabbing up a support would not be hard at all.

 

[chuck]

In my quest to cool my EB I tried everything including a custom made 5 row. But the reason I sell the<br>3 core is it cools the best.

 

[NOTPRETTY]

[quote author=chuck link=board=5;threadid=12300;start=0#91971 date=1040075679]<br>In my quest to cool my EB I tried everything including a custom made 5 row. But the reason I sell the<br>3 core is it cools the best. <br>[/quote]<br><br>The feedback I've gotten here and elsewhere confirms what you are saying. 5 core...but still same shape...height and width? <br><br>I think I am going to try a custom non-stock Rad first though. In this case, total water volume (Size) does matter and I can get one cheap from a buddy that should fit well and be easy to fab a support for. Plus it is only $30.00. I am fairly convinced that the Aluminum deal won't be much better.

 

[Rustytruck]

On my truck I had overheating problems and spent alot of time on it. Once resolved I found I couldnt overheat the engine anymore but the truck would still run like sh*t when hot meaning about 200F max. I just couldnt keep the 2 barrel carb cool enough to stop the vapor locking on hot days and high altitude and bumpy trails. Last spring I changed to a quadrajet and factory Iron 4-barrel manifold and no other changes and my truck was like night and day it ran great and my hood has been down ever since. I use to be the joke in the club for lunch break and stopping every hour. I run the WH staggerd 4 core, factory 7 blade fixed pitch fan, smaller dia water pump pully, and a robert shaw hp180 thermostat and factory fan shroud. and an under hood open element air cleaner to suck up the under hood heat. I have an automatic tranny cooler bypassing the radiator and a seperate oil cooler with fan I never need to turn on. so if your not boiling coolant then you just need to get rid of the 2 barrel and dont bother with insulators and heat shields and fuel coolers their not worth the effort. The quadrajet with its fuel bowl in the middle of its 4 venturis is surrounded by the coolest air you are going to get under a Bronco hood and the small fuel bowl on top of that keeps the fuel moving.<br>crawling around at 105+ temps are now no problem so the club now has to pick its breaks unless someone else is having problems.