Dan Wheeler's Dana 60 / 3 link Build Thread

[ken75ranger]

just got one coilover attached and jacked up the axle and for the first time in several months, the passenger side frame rail is off of the tall jack stand.

It looks to be sitting at 11" between frame and axle. It was shooting for 10.25" which is what it was before I started. Thats with no charge to the shock and the upper spring stop all the way to the top so I may need to order some lighter springs.

Looks good.
Like Thomas says wait until you are fully weighted, on tires and you will get at least 1/2 inch of settle in the springs too.
What rates are your springs?

 

[DanWheeler]

i think they are 150 over 200. i also noticed at full extension, the springs unload and have a couple inches of play. i dont know if thats a problem or not. i wouldnt want them to recompress without seating correctly. i will definitely need limit straps.

 

[DirtDonk]

Instead of limiting straps (just yet anyway), don't they also have super weak "spacer-springs" who's only job is to take up unused space at full extension? I thought I'd heard of that component before anyway. Don't know how much room one would take up when compressed, or if that inch or two of space would change your initial settings and spring rate calculations, but that might still solve your issue of floppy springs.

Paul

 

[Jwredneck]

Instead of limiting straps (just yet anyway), don't they also have super weak "spacer-springs" who's only job is to take up unused space at full extension? I thought I'd heard of that component before anyway. Don't know how much room one would take up when compressed, or if that inch or two of space would change your initial settings and spring rate calculations, but that might still solve your issue of floppy springs.

Paul

Helper springs.

http://www.truechoice.com/prodinfo.asp?number=EIB HELP

 

[KyleQ]

You need triple rates - aka helper springs. Their only purpose it to keep the spring aligned into the cup - if you are not binding your driveshaft or links don't waste the down travel you have been fighting for.

 

[hartbronco]

you need triple rates - aka helper springs. Their only purpose it to keep the spring aligned into the cup - if you are not binding your driveshaft or links don't waste the down travel you have been fighting for.

x2......

 

[DanWheeler]

good idea on the helper springs, guys - thanks. I guess I will need another slider too.

quick question on lug nuts. My rear sterling 10.25 has excessively long lug studs. I think I need to replace them with shorter ones. I could also just chop them off shorter but I dont want to mess up the threads.

1) does anyone know why the lugs studs are so damn long?
2) where is the best place to get a set of lut studs? I need 32 of them.

thanks,
dan

 

[Jwredneck]

good idea on the helper springs, guys - thanks. I guess I will need another slider too.

quick question on lug nuts. My rear sterling 10.25 has excessively long lug studs. I think I need to replace them with shorter ones. I could also just chop them off shorter but I dont want to mess up the threads.

1) does anyone know why the lugs studs are so damn long?
2) where is the best place to get a set of lut studs? I need 32 of them.

thanks,
dan

If you have room thread a die on before you cut the stud and then as you take the die off it will clean up the threads.

 

[PhantomEB]

Wheel off, thread the nut on all the way, figure out what length you want then cut it off and also bullet nose it for easy installation of the nut after.

When you thread out the nut the nut will cut the threads back out for you.

 

[KyleQ]

I would do what PhantomEB suggested, I've done that in the past with good results.

 

[Apogee]

I'm guessing you have the 9/16-18 x 3.28" long wheel studs that came with the 12x3" drum brake applications. That's too bad because those studs also have huge knurl diameters of .677", so there aren't any 9/16-18 or M14 options that I konw of to replace them with something shorter. Shortening them may be your best option.

Thread files are relatively cheap and should be part of every automotive mechanic's tool box IMHO.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Thread-Files/?keyword=thread+file&kr=thread+file

When I shorten wheel studs, I prefer to do it off the vehicle and not already installed in a hub, but I realize that's not always practical. When they're not installed, I typically just grab the end I'm cutting off in the vice, mark the length with a piece of masking tape and then chop them to length with a .040" friction disc (Metabo). I'll then chamfer then end of the stud on a belt sander if handy, hit it on the deburr wheel and finish dress the lead-in threads with the thread file if needed.

I've done the nut trick before and had the nut gall on the way off, ruining both the stud and the nut, so if you use that method, be sure to deburr the cut as well as you can before removing the nut and apply anti-seize so things go smoothly.

Tobin

 

[carter2772]

Why not just use a die like JW said. Thats what they are made for. Thread it on, cut to length, chamfer the end, and thread the die off...

 

[DanWheeler]

thanks guys for the tips and suggestion, especially Apogee for all the detail. I've never even heard of a thread file.

it's interesting, these lug studs cant even be removed without taking the hub off. Anyone know why they are so long to begin with?

of course, if I go disc in the rear then it will be a moot point but I haven't decided on that yet.

 

[Thomas H.]

i think that the more thread contact their is the harder it is for the lug nut to come loose under max load. also they wanted to be more compatible with other rim hole sizes, so to get the weight rating instead of a larger dia. lug stud, they went with longer to get the same load rating (anti spin off the lug nut). just my .02

 

[ponyracer]

Any progess??? How long are your links, lowers and upper? I've got a box full o brackets from ballistic but as usual they shorted me half the order. I'll be ordering my link material in a few days!! Can't wait to get this thing rolling again!!

 

[DanWheeler]

i was in vegas for a conference last week so i lost some time but i am looking forward to getting back out there and making some progress. is it sad that while in vegas all i could think about is how much i would rather be in the garage?

I think my link lengths will be around 38 or so. upper and lower. lots of thought behind longer uppers or lowers and both have their advantages so i just decided to split the difference and make them about equal. longer upper = slight pinion rotation up when flexed. longer lowers can get some better antisquat numbers according to the calculator. i was able to get the AS numbers i wanted with equal length without the downward pinion rotation you would normally get with a short upper.

not surprised to hear about your ballistic partial order. man, they just have a hard time getting things out the door.

do you have a build thread?

 

[ponyracer]

Is 38" the overall length with the ends or is that just the tubes?


Here's my junk.
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=173722&highlight=getter&page=15

 

[DanWheeler]

links are typically measured eye to eye on the joints which is what my 38" measurement is.

nice shave job on that Sterling! I'll have to keep an eye on that. Fortunately the Sterlings dont hand down much more than a 9" but yes there's always room for improvement.

 

[ponyracer]

Thanks, ya I prob should've left it alone but I want all the clearance I can get with 39" tires. Getting ready to pull the front apart and start cutting on the 60 as well. Goal is to have as much clearance as a 44/9".

 

[DanWheeler]

got the rear tubs cut out

and getting my electrical put back into place after cutting out the fenders