Explorer 5.0 EFI swap with RJM Harness - Way more info than you ever thought possible

[Tito]

Alright here are pics of the stock "Bronco" manifolds on. Pass side is prefect, driver side I think could be made to work. It is real close...well it would be touching the boot on 2 possibly 3 of the cylinders. I'd think you could do some grinding to get them to fit and just use the kevlar socks to keep it safe. I think the casting is pretty thick and the part that is touching is extra material from the casting process. Anyways, tell me what you think.

Yeah I think it will work, its the ribbing that is close to the plug. The manifolds may need to be removed to get the plugs out but how often do you change plugs???

It is weird how well the pass side fits (I need another pic of it) and how tight the driver is.

 

[Dowd]

You got it bud, there seemed to be all the info out there but it was spread out and no good pics of the sensors and mods needed to be done.

Let me know if you need to borrow the drill and tap.

I hope I will need to borrow soon. My motor and tranny have been sitting in my shop for too long. It's a time and money thing. I added up all the parts I will need and it is about twice as much dinero as I paid for motor & trans. Again thanks for the thread. Do you happen to have a comprehensive parts list as well? i.e. sensors etc.......
;D ;D

 

[Tito]

Will do boss. What harness are you going to use? IF the RJM it has the full list of sensors with their ford # as well as aftermarket #

 

[Dowd]

I am going to use the rjm harness. I toyed around with the fast system but in the end too expensive and not enough people seem to know the in's and outs. You dont have to post the list if too busy. I have compiled most of it anyway. Just wanted to check x2.

 

[Tito]

I'll add them to the thread when I have a chance. Still have a few to get. Junkyard trip coming soon!

 

[Viperwolf1]

I hadnt attacked that yet and removed it prior to install but it looks to fit fine so I will reinstall it as long as it will still work with the crossover pipe. Kind of a nice little addition. And if not thanks for that part #. Where can you get it at, just Ford?

Ford is the only place I could find one. I had to replace the original on my HO motor because the threads were really boogered up. A PIA to get the old one out but the new one is hex in the center so it goes in easy.

 

[joe]

Alright here are pics of the stock "Bronco" manifolds on. Pass side is prefect, driver side I think could be made to work. It is real close...well it would be touching the boot on 2 possibly 3 of the cylinders. I'd think you could do some grinding to get them to fit and just use the kevlar socks to keep it safe. I think the casting is pretty thick and the part that is touching is extra material from the casting process. Anyways, tell me what you think.

Yeah I think it will work, its the ribbing that is close to the plug. The manifolds may need to be removed to get the plugs out but how often do you change plugs???

It is weird how well the pass side fits (I need another pic of it) and how tight the driver is.

i have heard of some guys grinding and using the steel tube protectors, but it still ate plug wires up. maybe you could get some high dollar wires?

 

[garberz]

Right on Tito! You just jump right in and do it, with pics too. I'm glad your taking the time to do this thread. So keep it going. Lots of good info for everyone. Good luck...
Mark

 

[Tito]

i have heard of some guys grinding and using the steel tube protectors, but it still ate plug wires up. maybe you could get some high dollar wires?

Hey Joe, why did the wires get all messed up? I've had wires laying on manifolds before without ever getting any damage. Those heat shields I would think would help out to keep any major contact off and the ceramic or kevlar boots over there for extra help. Anyways, maybe I'll get the grinder out tonight ;D ;D

 

[Tito]

Alright I took the grinder to the driver manifold. I was pretty conservative with it but I think I still got some decent clearance. The boots fit on without touching the manifold, I think it might even be possible to take the plugs out without taking the manifold out (not really a big deal to me). I may grind some more but would like some feedback. Like I mentioned earlier I havent ever seen a melted spark plug wire and mine have been on the manifold or headers before. Anyways, here are some pics of the grinding and the fitment.
Sorry for the bad pics, its hard to see what I am taking a pic of in there.

 

[Viperwolf1]

I think you'll be alright. I haven't had any plug wire meltdowns in mine either. I currently have the 351 manifolds. When crawling it runs so hot it's like a thermonuclear furnace in there.

 

[Tito]

Haha, reminds me of header burn in. So hot you dont realize your skin is melted off till you smell it. :-X
Mine ran real nice and cool, of course I dont deal with a lot of ambient heat up here, heck I have done more snow wheeling than anything %) .

 

[BroncoRunner]

Great Job.............I'm working on my 5.8 as we speak. This thread really helped. Thanks again!!

 

[bigmuddy]

I have lost quite a few plug wires on headers but not on the stock manifold. I would suspect because they are just so damned thick which retain alot more heat than headers. If they don't make it, you might get by with some wire boots.

Ben

 

[JHD]

THANKS TITO! This will help a bunch of us.

 

[Tito]

I have lost quite a few plug wires on headers but not on the stock manifold. I would suspect because they are just so damned thick which retain alot more heat than headers. If they don't make it, you might get by with some wire boots.

Ben

My experience too. The stock manifolds tend to be a little more stable as far a temps go. Cool thing is the explorer had the wire boot protectors on them so I get to keep them. I really didnt want to use the explorer manifolds those things are wicked funky!!! I'll put em up on ebay and make a few bucks back.

Do folks do 2 collector setups on each pipe with efi and manifolds that way the exhaust can be removed and not have to disconnect or mess up the O2 sensors?

 

[Tito]

And FWIW I have decided to just run a single high pressure line. I will mount it up right back there on the frame rail forward of the tank. From my research etc it seems to be a better setup. My tank is an aftermarket 23 gallon with some decent baffling in it and I never run dry on the trail.

 

[6daze]

Thanks Tito, this info will help alot.

I was planning on putting the ACT in the "cold air" tube, basicly between the MAF and throttle body. Any reason you didn't do this?

I also planned on eliminating those heater tubes, any reason to keep them?

By the way, I can't keep track of all your rigs...this motor going on the beast?

 

[Tito]

Haha, yup the Beast. Put 5.0, ZF, 203/205 in.
I was going to put the ACT there but since it is on the Mustang right there on the manifold and that is where the pigtail on the RJM drops off I put it there. I was contemplating putting it in the air tube but figured this was 1 less thing hanging out there.
The heater tubes are actually pretty cool and shorten up the heater hose a lot since they only go to the back of the engine instead of the front. You would also need an adapter in that port where the heater tube comes out to put the ECT.

 

[Viperwolf1]

The heater tubes from the mustangs already have the ECT port. I'm using using them on my GT40 lower. It also has the port for the ACT. The only thing I don't like about the mustang tubes is that they don't have the 90* bend at the rear like the explorer tubes. Maybe I can find a bender for them.